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Glen you should send a photo of this to someone at Disney advertising. You never know it might land you a contract making or designing stuff for them, or get free goodies, or maybe even a trip to GE . Disney LOVES fan based anything that promotes their products. They thrive on it.

As promised here's the update. Door switches arrived but as expected the spring tension was too tight, ended up replacing and using some springs from some pens, worked out I needed one and half springs. Cups to hold the coke and water attached also door switches. Aker amp and mp3 player attached Wiring added and cut off switch attached. And assembled, anti theft device complete

This week-end I’ve worked on the sensor. I’ve chosen a “type A” sensor. I’ve dremeled some metal beards (laser cut I think) and I've assembled the two tubes to the main metal part (be careful, the notched end goes to the rear of the sensor) . They match perfectly. I’ve curved the tabs on the steel chassis and glued the tube with cyanolite to prevent them from moving. The three small holes weren't big enough so I’ve to enlarge them in order to pass the capacitor extremity. After that, I’ve cut and twist them with pliers. I’ve inserted the copper bars and fixed the sensors extremities. The main difficulty was to assemble the little capacitors. I’ve soldered some of them and glued with cyanolite the others (the paper tape was to prevent fingerprint on tubes with the glue ... ). I’ve cut the extremities of the sensors (diamond disk for Dremel). To fix the sensor to the magazine, I was looking for a way to do that with out drilling the aluminum receiver. I’ve disassembled an old hard disk drive : magnets are very strong and 2 mm thick (may be less). They are strong enough to interact with the real steel magazine under the aluminum receiver and the sensor don’t move (it’s 83gr with the magnet !). Et voilà ! I'm pretty happy with the result

More progress! The shins are sized, trimmed, and final gluing! This is where it got wonky. I don’t have a whole lot of in-progress photos, because I was focused elsewhere. Mainly trying to understand what was going on and what Johnny was doing when explaining how to trim and trimming. I got to the point where I intellectually understood what was going on, but could I explain it, or write it out? Nope. Basically this is a kit-specific thing. KB’s shins and thighs are straight lines/connections, while aNOvos and the CRL aren’t a straight join, they have a curve to them. Examples: CRL, which matches the aNOvos FOTK I have as reference: KB thighs (I don’t have a before picture of the shins, but it was the same thing just in a different part): And yes, the KB back thigh is just a straight half circle/tube, with no cut down for where your butt would be. More on that later. I did an image search and didn’t find any good shots of the outer thighs on any movie shots, or even any other approved 501st Phasmas. So I just looked at my Black Series figure, because they’re known for being at least decent in accuracy, even if a toy. There’s definitely a curve on the thigh: The deeper shin curve is on the inside, not the outside like the thigh, so definitely no pictures of that one that were easy to find. And the Black Series looked kinda straight. It is basically the same curve. The other half is then just the opposite, so they fit together nicely. The outside seems more relaxed but I still see a curve in the CRL photos. What Johnny did, and then what I attempted to do based on that, was take all the measurements of different points of Izzy’s FOTK I have as reference, and then use those measurements to plot the curve on my pieces. Johnny was the true mastermind there- I basically started and tried to understand and then used his template for the remaining thigh piece we didn’t get to that night. I realize that helps no one without an FOTK lying around for visuals and physical measurements. Have I told Izzy lately thank you for letting me borrow his FOTK? I should do it again. I will also say that his aNOvos is a first wave or maybe the first of the B wave they did, so I have no idea if they’ve changed their design since. Oh wait no one who’s ordered has received anything so we don’t know the answer to that. I don’t actually know if doing a straight line would affect approval. I’d defer to the appropriate GML, of course, but the CRL text doesn’t indicate it, but the photos clearly do. And the approval is based on the combo of the text and photos. I suppose without a physical reference I’d just wing it and lightly sketch the curve on the parts until you like it and then cut. It is a bit subtle. I’m also not very good at winging it, but I’ve gotten better at it the more kits I build and help build. Pretty sure we’ve winged just about everything on the WTF Inferno TIE I’m helping a friend build (don’t even get me started). But back to that wonky thigh back with no cut out for human butts. I’m going to use both my OT TK and Izzy’s FOTK to get an idea of where to trim, and then hold it up to myself and see what works. I’m really not sure what was up with that, it’s very obviously not another piece, it is the back of the thigh. The front had the dip for the inner leg. I also have a V1 KB, and Johnny had a V2, and I think they’re on V3, now. So maybe all of the above is fixed/makes more sense now. I sat down to do the second thigh, and just couldn’t wrap my mind around how to even use the template. I got frustrated, and kept asking myself why every step of this was so hard. I’ve knocked out a bunch of other projects and little things in between working on this and this kit just keeps fighting me at every turn. Thankfully Johnny was able to come by and help me out and it’s now done and gluing. The first thigh is final gluing and the second will have its full closure gluing done in the next few days. The backs aren’t totally trimmed but will be easier to work with once assembled, so I can slip them on and adjust as necessary. Did I mention it’s also 100+ degrees here, and we’ve been in an excessive heat warning for the last three days, though at least tomorrow? The garage and the outside are rough to work in right now. (Arizonans shush, I know, it could be worse, and it will get worse here, though not quite like you poor smucks). Anyway… As far as chroming goes: I got ahold of my uncle and he has two possibilities for me, one guy who’s the best in town but pricey, and one guy who’s great and the bang-for-buck guy, but referral only. Thankfully I have a referral. I contacted him and he’s supposed to get back to me with some paint costs. I have a feeling he’s not going to be the one- he’s not a cosplay guy, he doesn’t know quite what I’m asking of him. I did end up with two extra leads, though- one is another local guy, who has (per a Yelp review I found) done Cosplay paint work before, and he’s more than happy to take a look at it and give me a quote. We’ll be meeting sometimes next week. A third option is Chrome Factory LV out of Las Vegas (https://www.chromefactorylv.com/), which Johnny found via Instagram. Their work is beautiful, and I do know an approximate cost. Basically on cost… I’m torn, frustrated, and afraid. I finally sat down with myself and thought it out, and I came up with this plan: If I can get it chromed for $1k, I will be ecstatic. I’m willing to go up to $1.5k, and still feel okay. If that just isn’t feasible or realistic, I will consider $2k, but I will have to think long and hard about it. But anything about that and I simply can’t justify it and can’t afford it (someday, but not in the next while, and especially not if I even want to think about Celebration Anaheim). I’m already afraid I won’t be able to afford the $1k - $1.5k, and am working through ever scenario I can to make it work, and on the timeline I still desperately want to stick to. The worst-case scenario is I don’t get it done in time for the premiere. Not disastrous, I suppose, but I need to strike while the iron is hot, and I’m afraid that if she doesn’t show up in this new movie, then the public will have lost interest in her. I am doing the costume for myself, and for my love of Gwendoline Christie, and all the character should have been, but I have trouble justifying it if the public isn’t also into it. I’m feeling the monetary crunch and that just kills me on a good day. I normally don’t talk specific monetary details, unless one-to-one, and generally when someone is already started or very serious about a costume, but it’s a hang-up point for me on this one, and I do think it is important for other potential Phasmas to know the possibilities and the realities, and if they can or still want to pursue her. I feel the need to be brutally honest about my experiances with this build because sugar coating it won’t help me and could set someone else up in the future for a real shock and I don’t want to do that. Money is just such an awkward topic (maybe if it weren’t people would have less problems with it). I have about $1k into her currently, so even if I dropped $1.5k on chroming, that’d still be a reasonable and even cheap Phasma. Thankfully I only have minor expenses left other than chroming (final balance of cape, I have the misc. supplies already just in my stash), so that end is in sight. I firmly believe she will be worth every penny. For my blasters, I ordered Alclad II in chrome and pale gold- I’m going to mix the two to get that champagne color for her blasters. Or maybe I’ll get lucky and the pale gold will mimic it well and I won’t need the other. Based on photos I think it needs a mix, but maybe in person it will be different. We’ll see. I did get an airbrush with compressor kit for my birthday, so we’re in good shape there! I also did a bunch of clean up work on the helmet. It needs quite a bit more, but it is cleaning up better than I expected. Tiny Dremel bits used by hand to get in those grooves, wet 1000 grit sandpaper for the ridges, more Dremel work for some of the extra mold bits, and we’re getting somewhere. Basically, what I decided while working on it, however, is that I will never be totally happy with it. I can’t get it out of my head I’m convinced it’s a B Grade. I ordered a Tripon which should be here in 3 – 4 weeks. The nose cone isn’t separate like Thorrson’s, but hell, I’m not painting the thing most likely, so it’s someone else’s problem. I’m going to keep this one and try and clean it up the best I can, but it will be converted to the broken one from TLJ. (Dumb, nothing made out of a spaceship should crack that easy, but hero v. villain and we all know how that ends in Hollywood). It will be an awesome table prop and show piece. To save on costs, I will chrome it myself with the Alclad since it’s just a prop piece and won’t have the wear-and-tear of use like the main one will. The 3 – 4 week plan will hopefully keep me motivated to finish everything else by then, so then I can just finish the new helmet and send it all for chroming. If I can get this to chroming in July, then I’ll still have four and a half months before the premiere to wrap everything up. I really do think once the chroming is done, the rest is assembly and strapping, which I can start now, but not glue in, and anyway that part is the quick easy part anyway. I’d love to be able to have the funds to chrome her by July, but if I have to wait another month, then I’ll still have enough time to make it to the finish line before the premiere. Updated list of completed/nearly completed/needing to be finished: Still needing finishing finesse and greeblies, etc.: Chest plate Back/yoke Biceps Forearms Boot spats Shoulder bells Cod piece Butt plate Knee plates Hand plates Up next: Secondary hand plates- received from KB, just need some trimming Attach all greeblies/boxes (forearms, thighs, shins) Clean up 3D print lines from blasters 1st Helmet: more sanding and clean up 2nd Helmet: sanding and prep once received Maybe finish/assemble thermal detonator. Still on the fence about it. More likely than not going to skip it to try and keep costs down as much as possible. Work up connections so they’re ready to install I’m going to have to get a taped up shot of everything on and roughly in place to show off. I'm also hopeful this will help with my motivation and my desire to keep going. I have all the desire for a finished Phasma of my own. I have much less desire to keep going to do the work necessary to get to that point.

When can we start ordering?

ABS paste, although I think the originals had the seams hidden with white steelmax glue, same result though Also illustrating how the thighs are alligned by the top part of the lower ridges. How it looks without ammo pack.

Hey Michael stuff the bicep under the shoulder bell.

A Lower photo, position is good.

That is wicked! Well done sir! And as Tony says above ^^^^, send it in to them

Before I do anything I will ask you guys first. Thank you!

Ok.... keep us posted... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pam Nichols 10867 EIB Letter Daniel http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/10867-eib.png

Congratulation Pam, welcome to EI, great job

Congrats and welcome to EIB!

Truly one of the (pardon the pun) coolest things I have seen here, Glen. What's next, a blue milk vending machine? Bantha jerky?

Congratulations Pam, and welcome to the rank.

My previous post was to say that ANOVOS may or may not be using the factory that Imgill knows, and that others arent as good at doing stuff the way their clients want first try. Tried to edit to append that, but couldn't get a cursor past the quote block. Any rate, for further edification Imgill later followed up with this:

Oh, also, regarding Germain's posting of Global Effects' statement, I offer this vastly differing experience MovieFreak over on the RPF has had with his company's dealings with Chinese factories:

Woo hoo!! Thank you so much!! So excited! Going to start working on fixes asap! [emoji2956] Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

The most pertinent things I've seen lately surrounding the data black hole that's been bugging us for so long are: - Disney's re-upped ANOVOS' license for another three years. - Multiple people had previously contacted and gotten responses from LFL and Disney licensing folks, so all parties are aware of problems with ANOVOS. - The latest on the class-action is the judge had ordered it to ADR -- Alternative Dispute Resolution. This means mediation between parties, and, I feel, is the best chance we all have of seeing ANOVOS not go under and take our money with them, and start getting back on their game. Anything beyond that would be speculation on how exactly that would happen. The plaintiffs don't want customers' funds to vanish into a bankruptcy. Disney doesn't want the bad press. LFL wants to keep getting licensing fees, which they won't if ANOVOS fails, as -- after Icons, Master Replicas, Museum Replicas, and The PropStore, as well, before them -- I can't see anyone else being in a hurry to pick up that high-end costume/prop license. Thing's cursed. My hunch is that the Mouse might float funds to get things caught up, while also sending people in to whip ANOVOS into shape on the business side of things. I can't see them being cool with being on the hook for refunding everyone if ANOVOS goes under or loses their license or otherwise won't be able to deliver all the ordered product, which is what the plaintiffs are asking -- that the customers be made whole, either in the form of the quality products they ordered in good faith, or in the form of full refunds if such won't be forthcoming. From a cost-benefit standpoint, it is more in their interest to prop ANOVOS up and turn things around. They stand a better chance of getting a return on that investment, particularly if restructuring is a condition of such. Speculation, as I said, but not uninformed.

Great story and well written, Michael. Wishing you a lot of fun on your troops.

One would hope they are going to take some of the sweet sweet Disney money to finally give everyone their kits. Or, you know, not.

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the EI ranks

Congratulations! Welcome to EIB.

I LOVE IT Always outdoing yourself Q, very nice indeed.

Hi again Pam and thank you for your EIB application. In this review I will ensure that your armor follows the requirements set out in the CRL L2 Expert Infantry Badge and also point out what I can to prepare you for Centurion, should you choose to apply. I hope you do! Let´s get started! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions You did great on your build and we only have a few small suggestions to make and starting with the helmet we see that the ears are nicely fitted. The majority of Stunt helmets also had a bit of a lean to them, as seen in the reference images, so if you feel up to it we feel this would ad even more to that ANH feeling. The belt is fine as it is but same as with the ears, some small tweeking and it would be perfect. In this case raising the center part of the belt a smidgen. Moving on we have the TD and idealy the screws are positioned closer to the edge and further apart. We also suggest not making the bends so pronunced (full arrows) and to add that little bend on the ends for uber ANH magic. Here we would have preferred that you hadn´t made these mobility cuts as you don´t seem to need them, it just looks cleaner not having them. Unless you went for that particular look in which case we Keeping the thighs longer would then be the go-to suggestion as it looks like you trimmed them shorter. And that´s it for EIB - moving on to Centurion. Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Not much to say here other than we´re picky and want you to shorten the straps that hold the bells. We´re just as picky here and request you thighten the strapping to keep that back plate nice and snug to the kidney. There we have it! Welcome again to Expert Infantry and with some fine tuning Centurion is well within your grasp

Looks good Brian. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Hi Michael, thanks for sharing and welcome to the Legion Trooper. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Looks like you've been through a lot getting here. Glad you made it Michael There's nothing like the feeling you get when you see that first kid at each troop light up. Have fun out there TK

cod mounting cut outs. Forgot to get 2” elastic so I’ll get more tomorrow as well as fabric to make my back closure. I can’t do magnets because I prefer a zipper and I always have help. I wish I had taken pictures of my shoretrooper I did and I liked the back closure KW sent along with it. Pretty sure he used canvas. Ill also add a few snaps for the belt tomorrow and continue working my way up. Need to settle on how to mount knee plates.

Not bad for what’s there. Maybe throw some pics up on the preapproval section and get some feedback as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOVE IT! Thanks for posting this Michael and welcome, again.

Using straps with snaps ensures you're always wearing your armour the same and should allow for a more consistent look as with velcro, you're always placing it just slightly differently. Just my opinion as to the pros. Velcro will wear out as well and I find snaps are stronger than velcro. Obviously what you mentioned will still work, but ultimately I think snaps are the best way to go. Your list looks good from what I can tell! The only thing I'm unclear on is needing four rivets for the drop boxes? I just looped the elastic over the canvas belt and riveted both the the back of the box.

If you buy the right fans, and watch your mic placement then no. And if they do make something up about having a systems malfunction. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

They look good mark. If I was to suggest anything, you could still trim/sand a little off the smaller Ab plate just to make sure it all resides withing the boundary of the top of the raised ab section it mounts to.

Button plates on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes.... EVERYONE listen to Just Joseph he’s a good guy and will NOT MISLEAD U !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Rob and thanks to everyone here. I have some big boots to fill! As Rob mentioned, we have been collaborating for a while. If you have gotten armor from RT-MOD over the last year and a half or so, I probably made your armor in my workshop. We have actually been working, planning and updating things long before that. I have been working hard on updating many pieces of the armor. I am guessing that I have upgraded probably 85% of the armor. Some improvements involved sharpening the bucks, or creating new bucks altogether in order to create more accurate (as accurate as fan made as can be) and up to date armor shapes. The vast majority of the improvements have been to align with the ANH look and what people have requested for Centurion level kits. All of the armor now feature deeper return edges, for those wanting to install strapping brackets on the torso or to create a more accurate look. An all new abdomen buck was created with separate ab button panels and button strips (they were molded in previously). All new kidney with an aligned kidney notch was made. New biceps, forearms and hand guards were made from scratch. Thighs are available in different sizes. A larger back was created for bigger troopers. The most exciting news is that the helmet now features a one piece "cap and back" as the previous helmets had separate cap and back pieces. Some bucks are still being refined to make them ready to use, but the vast majority are ready to go and have been in use for some time. Please stay tuned for updates. Thanks for your patience during this time as contact info is updated, new supplies are being ordered, plastics manufactured and shipped, work space re-organized, shipping providers updated as well as some cool new and exciting additions. As Rob mentioned, this is a part time hobby and I will try to help support builders and costumers when time allows. I have a family now and that takes priority, but I will do my best. I will be updating this thread with photos and information when it becomes available, along with detailed descriptions of all the new armor updates and improvements. Thanks for your continued support! Terry