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Fingers crossed again, got arms on correct sides this time, obviously just testing everyone before, no one would be that daft to put arms on the wrong sides especially when they’re labelled up inside Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! The only thing I noticed was already touched on, that the belt boxes hang at the end of the belt, rather than the end of the angle cut.

Thank you so much. I definitely want to do this right. I appreciate your help. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Well done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work overall, just a couple of things which may not hold you up with basic but would make you stand out. Tube stripes ideally should be a pencil width on the side of the cheek, also the curve/fall of the tube stripes are greater at the top at the front ie back ///// front. Your belt boxes should sit at the end of the plastic belt section, you could add a dab of E6000 to the straps to hold them there. You have taken quite a lot out of the back of the thighs and shins, they look a little round, but this could be due to the smaller size of the thighs, here is a screen reference: You have trimmed a little much of the large ab plate but should be ok, could take a little more off the smaller ab plate though I'm sure you'll be ok for basic so good luck and hope to see you approved soon.

Photos Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Ok, awesome! Thanks for your advice Daniel! I'll give it a go and report back

Understood. Sorry about that

Yeah I agree! Thanks James

Thanks mate, I did, and almost screwed one of the holes(the upper one), luckily it didn't break.

With gluing the cover strips, I have found it easier to only do one side at a time, Yes it's more time consuming but you get more control over how it goes down

WAY TO GO, TROOPER !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, thank you! I'll give it a try and see what I can do. Thank goodness for E6000!!

Thank you for the quick response Adi! I'll get back to you shortly!

No problem sir , we all have family and real life job here's the picture left side of the abdomen painted with humbrol thank you sir !

I have @ukswrath‘s aluminum supports and will vouch for how good they are. Not to mention the added strength they’ve given in that high stress location of the yoke. But congrats on your armor and welcome to the First Order!

Thank you very much sir. I would address these as well.

Hey everyone, slow progress over here, but it's moving! Started slow by trimming with the Lexan scissors, but after watching some Trooperbay Youtube videos, I'm starting to follow suit with trace-score-snap. Though I'm still using a straight edge to help trim where it counts, like the raised parts for cover strips. I also really liked one of his techniques for some nice straight trimming lines, seen below. Anyway, here's some progress with a couple notes and questions. Biceps: They seemed to flare out quite a bit at the top after I trimmed them, so I cut them at a bit of an angle (red line - about 1/8" slope on each cut for about 1/4" closer at the top). My mind went a little absent when cutting the left bicep, and I followed the outside ridge a bit. Shouldn't be a big deal, since I think the shoulder bell will cover that all the time. Forearms: On the left forearm, regarding how the front cover strip portion flares out at the top, I did like Linus did and kept the trim ~7.5mm from the ridge, creating a bit of an opening (red arrow). It closes alright with tape without any visible deformity, so I figure that will go fine with the cover strip. Both forearms seem a little long, however, and I plan on keeping that little bit of return edge at the top. I assume there's no issues trimming from the wrist? I'll wait until final fitting first, though. Forearms: On the left forearm, regarding how the front cover strip portion flares out at the top, I did like Linus did and kept the trim ~7.5mm from the ridge, creating a bit of an opening (red arrow). It closes alright with tape without any visible deformity, so I figure that will go fine with the cover strip. Both forearms seem a little long, however, and I plan on keeping that little bit of return edge at the top. I'll wait til final fitting, but I assume there's no issues trimming from the wrist? They also are a little oblong in the opening, we will see if I need to bathe them, but probably after I glue the strips. Shoulders: Yup! Seems like it's a little big, but of course, we will see how the final fitting goes! Last question...I was checking out the ab/chest plates, and it seems like the chest plate might overlap the button panel a bit. I'm kind of worried about the height of the ab plate. I saw that Cricket left the ab plate in at least one of her builds, while Zel cut off the cod and shortened it AND kept it detached. I'm really liking the second option. Any advice on that before I do anything too drastic? Thanks guys!

If you have any questions regarding my aluminum version bell supports feel free to shoot me a PM Edwin. As Glen mentioned his ABS version are something you can make yourself. Oh and congratulations Kris

Smaller ab plate needs the curved sides removing, also ideally the ab plate are not rounded they are square You should also try to bring your shoulder bells in a little closer at the top, there is also some bunching of black material covering, perhaps tuck this under the bells. Thigh ammo strip rivets should also be painted white Thigh cover strip should stop above the lower ridge, yours appears to cover some of the ridge, you could also remove some of the curve out of your sniper plate and make the lines a little straighter. Hero helmets don't have the white edge on the hovi tips, well not until they get worn off Your first image appears to have a stunt helmet not the hero? also the belt is crooked, if you do adjust this it could come up a little as shown in the image above, belt should rest just under the bottom ab button. You will also need to post a few close ups of the sides of your helmet to show 2 ear screws and 3 bump ears Good luck with approval

Good luck with approval, I'm sure you'll be fine

Then I´ll hold back on the "D.O comments" and just say: That looks FIERCE!!

I'll just go ahead and say welcome to the ranks now, since Basic approval will be a slam-dunk. And, yeah, the build never stops. You only have pauses between troops. I've done two Troops now (my second just this weekend), and I've gone right back into the shop with the armor after each of them. Got another Troop this weekend with the Connecticut Garrison, and I'm sure I'll be right back to work on the armor as soon as I get home. A.J.

So after 24 hours I removed all the clamps, magnets and tape and the right thigh turned out great! The left thigh didn't turn out as great though I didn't notice when I was clamping down the cover strip but the ridge where the cover strip rest on has a curve to it. I put a green dotted line on it so you can see it a bit better While normally I wouldn't worry too much, when I was trimming I made the ridge 10mm on both sides all the way up, but I didn't take into account that there was a curve. So now when the cover strip lays on there flat, I end up with this ridge being exposed on the right and a slight overhang on the left side of the cover strip. I'm aiming for upper level approval so I'm gonna rip it off and try again. But I'm wondering what would be the best way to fix this problem. I've noticed on thigh reference pics that a lot of the cover strips have a bend to them to follow the cut lines I assume. Should I attempt to heat up the strip and add a bend to match the ridge or what I should do?? Help!!!

Looking good so far, sir. If I could offer one piece of advice, it would be to post photos of most areas before final fitting/gluing. This especially important for areas like the forearms, biceps and thigh tops, and here is why: Although many troopers like the "thicker" look of some armor pieces and choose to keep a lot of the return edges intact, I am not a fan of them in most areas. What I have seen many times is this scenario- The edges are kept on on the thigh tops (or forearms/biceps). After wearing it a time or two they find that the edges dig into or chafe the bejeezus out of them. But, if they are removed afterward they are way too loose. The original armor had most of them removed, as seen in the pics below. Note how the tops of your RS thighs are, and follow that for your present build. Just something to keep in mind. Keep the photos coming!

Borrowed a giant stock pot from a friend. Worked perfectly for the hot water bath on the thighs

Move forward while new elastics for bells cure. My attempt for drop boxes alignment for L3 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RLGM7F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 on each side top and bottom 0 issues Except maybe a pinch when they close Yes, it's ugly as hell in there, Trimmed to small ------Installed elastic ----- Shimmed --- Re-did magnets

Forgot to mention: things to change before submitting for EIB 1. Replace HOVI mic tips 2. Repaint frown 3. Paint thigh rivets Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Looks great, and well on your way to EIB! As I said in person, you'll probably want to put some padding in to prevent the sniper plate from coming under the thigh (I can see it doing it already), but you can decide that after your first troop. Also, that Anovos frown still needs help. We'll get it repainted Can't wait to troop with you brother! Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

looks great!

And Cleared Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk