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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by TKModder421

  1. Thanks man! Oh sweet, I also grabbed the file on his initial offering, and I also have his Shoretrooper files! lol I just barely started printing those! I currently have Anovos ANH TK armor and would love to get a set of RO armor but it’s gonna have to wait until I can afford it unfortunately
  2. Ok cool I printed it face up with supports and a brim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’ve got it pretty free of any texture I can see. Actually went up to 2000. Just wondering if I’m going to have paint adhesion problems on the spots I’ve wet sanded down to the plastic, or if it needs to be free of those color differences before I paint? I had the same problem my first go round, one of my supports failed under the left mic tip depression and it left a gap in the bottom. So I increased the supports under those areas and added a brim (for the supports to hold on to better) and the second one worked great
  4. Ok, good to know! Looking at my most recent pics I’ve burned through some spots (mostly on sharp edges) on the primer getting it up to such a high grit, do you think it’s ok to just go ahead and apply paint (since I’ll be using a paint with primer) or do you think I should lay another layer of primer first? I had to print a second chin myself. What problems are you having?
  5. Yeah, that’s the direction I’m leaning. Do you think I’ll need to add a clear coat after the gloss white?
  6. I've read over the label on the appliance epoxy and it recommends not using a primer. It says it self levels, but I'm a little concerned that if I screw it up it will be difficult, if not impossible to sand off. Anyone have experience with it? I'm kind of leaning away from that idea at the moment.
  7. Also, is there a color guide for ROTKs or is it the same as OTTKs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I've been slowly working on a 3D print build of Nico Henderson's R1TK helmet. Nico is well known for his accuracy on his Shoretrooper helmet design, so when I saw him post on Facebook that he was going to be releasing a 3D printable model of the R1TK I knew I had to give it a try. It's a beautiful design and I believe it to be the most accurate I've seen. I didn't know how far I was going to get with this build tbh so I hadn't started a build thread, but now that I'm getting close to painting I figured now would be a good time to post my progress. I'll probably need some advice on paint here soon as well, so any advice on paint and/or threads to read would be appreciated!! Here are some pics of the freshly printed pieces: And here's a few of the mockup of the raw printed pieces (except for the chin and ears which I had already started to sand): So after I had sanded things down a bit, I wasn't sure which method I wanted to use to fill the print lines I couldn't get with sandpaper. I had heard some people talking about using XTC3D so I decided to give that a try. My opinion is that it's good if you don't want to process it too much further than the initial polish, but I ended up with bubbles in the dried resin and found it difficult to sand, I think I could've gotten the same results easier just using filler primer, which is WAY easier to sand and get smooth. After endless hours of sanding I was finally ready to attach some of the pieces together. I started with the face and the back, then attached the dome. I wanted to fill the seam line between the back of the helmet and the dome. I wasn't ready to attach the chin yet as I wanted to get the face/back/dome piece as well as the chin up to paint ready smoothness with wet sanding before I attached the rest of the face together. Mostly so I wouldn't have to try and sand the seam between where the chin and cheek tubes meet, as well as the surfaces leading into the frown. So finally, I'm caught up to my current progress. I've got everything wet sanded up to 2000 grit and I have attached the chin to the rest of the helmet. I've mocked up the ears, brow trim and vocoder for looks, everything else you see is attached. Now I need to know how to proceed with painting. I've been trying to research rattle can options and the steps I should follow. I've never attempted to spray paint a project that needed to achieve the level of gloss and smoothness that this requires, so I want to get all the input I can before I proceed. I'm not sure if I should be laying down a particular type of primer first (should I use white primer?) and then what type of paint is best and how I should be going about getting all the angles without missing spots or pooling problems. Also, I've seen people talking about just using gloss white, but then I saw someone mention appliance epoxy, which I think might be a good idea due to the fact that it resists chipping? I found some at my local Home Depot but wasn't sure so I haven't gotten anything yet. This is what I found: Alright, well I'd love to get some feedback on the painting process as well as how to proceed with painting the greeblies (tears and traps) as well!
  9. Following, hoping the files will be made available again
  10. Hi Collin you're blaster turned out amazing! I have a question, so what was the graphic that you ended up using? It doesn't look like either of the 2 that Glen posted
  11. Awesome post Joseph!! I also would've loved having this during my build, but you answered most of my return edges and trimming questions anyway, so all great advice from the same source. Thank you for being such a great resource of knowledge and help!!
  12. Oh that's a bummer! I must've gotten lucky maybe with minimal glue? Idk. Well at least you got it worked out in the end
  13. fixed my strapping so my cover strips line up pulled the belt up to the bottom of the buttons If anybody sees anything else that needs adjustment to get EIB let me know
  14. Very carefully! Lol So basically I took an exacto blade and carefully ran it along the inside between the mesh and the plastic to try to break up the glue a bit. Slightly wiggly it towards the center to help separate it from the plastic and continued that until they came loose, pretty intact. They're a tiny bit bent, but nothing noticable once I got them back in
  15. Ok. I think that's good advice. I'll look it over and start small and make minor adjustments as I go. I'm so glad I asked first before just moving forward!
  16. Thanks Joseph! Good to know. That's exactly why I'm asking before I make cuts. In the references I've seen it looked like they were cutting all the way down to the cover strip leaving no lip, so I'm glad I asked. As of now I can walk ok, but the backs of the shins push into the backs of my knees, so I wanted to make some comfort cuts. I'm wondering if I should I wait to get approved for higher levels before I start trooping then make comfort fixes after that?
  17. What do you all think of these trim lines? Just want to get some feedback before I make any real cuts
  18. Yeah for sure! I've been working on it. But I could definitely use some advice and a different perspective!!
  19. Thanks Joseph! I definitely will pass on what I've learned to as many future troopers as possible!! Stoked to be part of the FISD family!!
  20. Thanks Tony!! I couldn't have done it without your build post!! It was definitely my main go to assembly manual!! Oh and thank you for always being so quick to reply when I posted a question on it! Glad to be part of the legion with such a great group of Stormtroopers!!
  21. Yeah those are exactly what I was gonna go for! Yeah my illustration is a bit squared off, I'll definitely give it more of an angle. But I did want to make sure to make it look more an intentional part of the armor rather than big chunk broken or taken out as I've seen on some armor.
  22. I'd like to start trooping here soon and need to do some comfort adjustments. I was thinking of taking some off the back of the knees on the shins. I've seen lots of reference and screen shot images that show them cut back. Something like I've illustrated below. I just want to verify that it won't have any effect on higher level approval. Am I correct?
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