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Same here, sir. Ordered rubber gloves one size larger than I needed, then wear them with cotton under gloves. No trouble at troops, plus they look awesome. :-)

If you wear cotton liners (really cheap on eBay) then you have no worries and can troop just like the movie Troopers or as a full blown Centurion the way you were approved, I have worn that set up for 5+ hours straight and no sweaty hands, your choice though edit: meant cotton

My pleasure! I always use Tino's kits... he thinks of everything!!

Already approved by my GML, but I know there's a few things to tweak (i.e. elbows, thigh cover strips, and drop boxes have all been mentioned previously). All input appreciated. Detail shots can be supplied if needed.

Will be a nice Christmas present, looking forward to seeing the BBB photos

Here's my painting process. I painted the elastic bands with a multi surface acrylic paint. Here they are with the masking tape removed. Then I masked off the elastic bands along with the black sole of the shoes. I then plasti dipped the rest of the shoe. I then peeled the masking tape off while the final coat was still wet and here's the final result.

my quoted shipping date is supposed to be the week before Christmas, so we will see.

I use FogTech Anti-Fog solution on my TK lenses and have never seen fogging show up! I even used it in my plague doctor mask at DragonCon this year and my lenses stayed clear for the entire 5 hours in it (no fans in there). The stuff works and works well.

I'd originally put some pads inside the helmet but they listed the eye holes high enough that I couldn't really see out of them. I knew I wanted to use a hard hat liner harness but wanted it to be adjustable, which the tutorial on making hard hat Clips wouldn't allow. And as I'm most comfortable crafting with my sewing machine I figured I'd see if I could come up with some sort of soft costume inspired fix. Here's my tutorial. You want 2" hook side Velcro and some stiffer fabric. I used green velcro because I had it handy and figured it'd be easier to show for a tutorial, as would the bright red orange cordura. You rebels out there might recognize it from a resistance pilot flight suit[emoji23]. Each piece was about 2" x 2.5". Trace one of the clips. Keep in mind that the clip is not entirely flat, so you'll need to add a little more room. I suggest sewing one side first and then holding the other side to see where the line needs to be before you make your template. My original one, where I sewed on the tracing lines, ended up being too small. This was taken on a background piece of eight and a half by 11 paper, but by turning it into a PDF it added margin. You'll have to adjust the size if you want to use it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UF_FxgJlK0qpfNpbSflw-rKtkAeuDPhX/view?usp=drivesdk Keep the bottom open and sew a straight line down the left side. Then sew the rest of the right side as close to the line as you can. I use white friend because it was really visible for the tutorial /that's what I currently have loaded in my machine and I'll be working on my belt next and don't feel like changing the thread multiple times. Slide the anchor bit in there. The Velcro faces away from the band. You may want to use a pin to hold the straps inside parallel so you don't accidentally so over them. Not that I did that at all. Using a zipper foot you're going to sew parallel to the strap and try to get the stitches as close to the inside of that little cut out notch area as possible. It doesn't have to be pretty-it just needs to hold up the notches. All four installed - I had enough of the little velcro stickers from the helmet padding leftover to add new stickers in the appropriate places. You can see where my old ones were, along with the lines where I thought the clips/anchors would end up. And... Success! The big adjuster not at the back of the harness might end up making it a little tight but I want to see how it works out when I troop in it before I mess with it. On to the neck seal and belt.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I used and haven't had an issue yet. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Not the way it is built in the picture. Not to sure about that bucket either. The dome or top of the helmet is a little large . If you bought it as a kit and put it together yourself you could eliminate some of the other problems in the build. Still I would recommend going with on of the vetted makers. True you would spend a couple hundred more in doing so. But you have the piece of mind in knowing that you are not potentially wasting a couple of hundred. The builder of the suit pictured is not an experienced builder. There are several things that were not done correctly. That tells me that there a potentially several other things that may not be done right as well. You might get by with that as a Halloween costume, but if you are going for 501st approval then I would leave that alone

I would recomend sticking with suppliers on the vetted list, you can find it in the Getting Started section. Purchase from a vetted seller and you will be sure you can have your costume 501st approved. Research is the key to this hobby so you have a little reading in front of you, good luck

An anti fog spray should help, I’ve used it in motor cycle helmets before. Down the track definitely invest in a fan or two, I find one enough to keep the screen clear in hot or cold conditions, having an extra one as back up is a good idea too. I can definitely recomend Tony’s ( @ukswrath) fan kits.

Let's see this thing to completion Jen! One more soft costume and I'm coming by and breaking sewing machine! It's ok Peeps. We're from same garrison. So Don't worry about me driving to far with sledgehammer. Keep up the good work Jen!!

This is something I need to address as it comes up in almost all the build threads. The original armour limbs are OVAL! Everyone seems to think the parts should be rounded but they are in fact oval shaped, just as your limbs are if you care to check. The problem with most other kits are they are oval shaped the wrong way, so if the wrist opening is wider from joint to joint on ANH armour, they are wider top to bottom making them look odd. Maybe that's why people think they need to reshape but whatever the reason the rounded myth started, it's just a myth Apologies for the slight diversion but I feel this myth needs to nipped in the bud.

When matching up the front of the thighs, you really want to have the lower ridges meet to an apex and not offset. I took the liberty of flipping your photo and correcting using the red lines and your blue line. Here's the inside of the RS original thigh.

Thank you! I appreciate it. Oh I’m sure I will be asking many more questions, lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Copy that, thanks Tony! Yea, this is the showroom model. I'm sure the used model will require changing things a bit after I come home with a few indents

Well if you have further questions don't hesitate to ask.

Oh yeah I agree. I would probably fill them with ABS paste if I did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad you're liking it! The film will be premiering on YouTube in one week. We've released a final trailer in the meantime: Luckily the main actor was my exact height and fit my own AP kit perfectly. Most of the featured TKs wore APs actually. Some ATAs are in there as well.

Chris this E11 is a dream come true. The amount of work, research and time is unfathomable.

I checked your website and eBay fieldmarshall. I’m not seeing the bolt and barrel for separate sale. Will they be? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is how i did mine.. hope it helps (The scoop I took out of the left forearm was purely to aid movement... some do that, others don’t) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This looks awesome! Let me know if you need a poster

Hiya. Here’s a nice example of some screen used bicep and forearm coverstrips. Check out the FISD gallery for more examples. :-) Best wishes Dan :-)

When I started putting together and fitting the torso pieces, I noticed right away that the top shoulder tabs of my back plate were digging into my back. After researching the issue, it seems that it's a common problem with taller troopers. I considered reshaping the tabs with a hot water bath but I had already glued my shoulder straps and snap and wasn't sure what the water would do to the glue. So, I made the unnerving decision to use a heat gun on the tabs. I know, I know,... using a heat gun on the tabs went against all the recommendations I could find but I had to move forward. I guess I was lucky because the process of using the heat gun seems to have worked out for me. I put the torso on for a fitment check and the tabs on the back plate sit really comfortable on my back now. https://imgur.com/96b3BTB Using a heat gun is not a process I would recommend on reshaping the tabs - I was absolutely terrified to use it. Just thankful that it worked out and the fit seems to be really good now.