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A God no, maybe just one of his helpful angels Although some screen helmets had gaps I do prefer to have little to no gap. I also trim as little at a time as possible as it is easy to over do it, keep an eye on wear the ear it touching and where it is not and only trim what needs to be trimmed. I generally use a Dremel for the large trimming then just sandpaper for the fine tuning. Here's a great How To thread on ear trimming A couple of other helpful threads: Here Here

And the ultimate goal has been achieved thanks to everyone who followed me until now and supported me whenever I was in trouble! It feels really weird to know that now is the time where I can't really do more for my TK.. Apart from two smaller adjustments that still need to be done, and maybe one day I might get a DLT-19 if I ever get bored of my trusty E-11 (will probably never happen ). So for now, I am looking forward to lots of troops and I'll also save some money for now - but the next costume is already in sight Thanks for standing by and reading, Freddy

Nope. Below is a pic from the very first pair I made using magnets. Much wonky! The goal is that the halves meet together nicely on their own, even if things aren't perfectly straight back there. Check the pic from my EIB/Centurion application. Cover strips FTW!

Ok great, I’ll drill out the bottom rivet and see how it sits whilst lining the ear up. Thanks guys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the deal with that?? Yeah, I used the cover strip to correct an off center cut on the rear thigh so I could see it working here except for the fact that I'm doing your magnetic closures. Doesn't the seam have to be perfectly centered for those?

I would drill out the lower rivet and and push the pieces closer together as illustraded below, be careful though not to flatten out the natural curve. And like my fellow Troopers already said - just ask away - Troopers helping Troopers

Thanks! I got impatient and did some snap plate installation with E6000 night before last in the garage with a space heater. After an hour or so, I moved the pieces into the basement in a Rubbermaid which I taped up to be nearly airtight. Kept them warm enough to cure. Slaved away on my right ear for a couple hours. Seem to have gotten nowhere, but am optimistic about my next attempt IF thinning out the lower front of this one doesn't fix it . By "optimistic about my next attempt", I mean that I know the curves well enough by now to carve the proper shape out of a block of wood - it just remains to transfer that skill to the odd hollow shape of the ear. With yesterday's delightful warmth, I started on the cover strip learning curve by applying two thigh cover strips rather poorly. The second two went better. Worst comes to worst I'll pop em off and try again. I also whipped up some new nylon snap plates in record speed and threw those on my ab and chest. I am very, very excited about strapping my torso together for the final trimming! Looking ahead, I have the most work to do on my bucket and shins. When trimming the back of the left shin, I somehow ended up with the line on a slight diagonal. It might not be enough to bother with, but I'm just not sure. My phone's camera died but I'll borrow a phone and get some pics tonight to get y'all's opinion on it. Current top goals: right ear, shin resizing. Still want to sit by the Christmas tree in my completed armor!

Thanks, I appreciate that tip, but I've already glued the first 15mm strips on and went with more of the ridge exposed. I figured there's two things that need to be accurate here; the ridge exposure (preferably none), and the cover strips (at 15mm). I was having an internal crisis over it for awhile, but eventually decided that, even if I did increase the width by a few mm, the ridge would still be exposed. By keeping the strip at 15mm, at least one of those two things is still accurate, instead of both of them being inaccurate.

Oops...guess I needed another one... Sorry for the hijack Jack - Dan provided great advise about the ears

Awesome! Very excited to be L2 and look forward to the challenge of L3...thx much for the work in putting together this analysis!

Hey Jack, Ears are looking good. Gaps are screen accurate as every ear was hand cut and slightly different, however no one will complain if you make them without gaps. It looks like your RS ears have natural cut lines on them. I’ve tried to highlight it here; However, as Q/Glen said, take a little off then offer it up to your lid. Keep going until you’re happy. And remember, the FISD gallery and Starwarshelmets.com are a go to place for screen references. Yours are already looking promising; Keep up the good work. :-)

The original armor did not have those ridges on the bicep pieces so if it were me I would do all I could to hide them - either make the bicep smaller to the point I just barely can put my helmet on/off and/or make the covertrip a few mm wider 18-19 and letting the forearms follow and they don`t have to match on the mm: ex biceps are 18mm and the forearms 16mm. Then I would "up" the rest, thighs and shins 21-23mm except back of shins which already have 25mm per screen used armor. Totally up to you though, the way you have it now won`t hinder a Centurion approval - just making a suggestion That should be the glossy side out to match the armor unless AP armor is totally different from others? @ABS80 I would also like to ad that it`s the minor details that make the overall look of the armor awesome - so keep up the good work

One side of your coverstrip material should match your armour - that’s the side to have on display. :-)

Excellent! Love that precision you have so far - following with much interest! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Okay great! Thanks! Haha yeah I know. I’m just trying to make sure that what I do won’t interfere with centurion approval. Until that first piece is built I’ll probably have ten more questions hehe

You'll drive yourself crazy with the things only you'll notice in your build Your coming along great!

If you are referring to the Shed of Glittering Delights then their kit is good quality. Also known as DA props. While their aren’t a vetted seller the kit itself has good reviews as far as quality is concerned.

Thanks Dan. I did wonder if the 'old' Anovos hovi tip mesh would get through, and I had thought I'd used flat enough pan head screws (guess I bought the wrong ones!). I'll work on those and get some updated pics loaded, along with pics showing the thigh ammo pack. Thanks again

I cut some 15mm strips and just clamped them on. Here is a shot so you can see how much ridge is still showing: And here is another shot of the inside, where you can see the gap still: I think there is still enough ridge to glue it on securely, but I'll definitely add a wider inside piece to make sure it's rock solid. Thoughts? I also just noticed there's a slight difference between the two sides of the cover strips in terms of gloss. Is there a specific side to display? It seems like it's the less glossy side that should be visible. I'll dig around on the forums, but thought I'd throw it out there which may be faster. Thanks!

Congratulations Eric, next stop, Centurion. Well done sir

Looking good and Dan caught what I was going to mention about the under trimmed ammo pack. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

where is franks stormtrooper from Hong Kong? they said express delivery 3 days right...

The upsidedown bicept....

It is official. I am going to build Captain Cardinal and will just go with solid red boots. Next week, I will begin work on the KB Props armor and post all progress on here as I promised JSIN. Below is the only "Official" reference picture. I just thought this picture was cool. It is not an official reference picture (below pic) Once complete, I will be getting the armor painted by an Automobile painter/detailer with a clearcoat. This will make it very shiney and protect it.

I cannot wait for you to finally finish this build