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Now the trigger!!!

Thank you, Glen. Couldn’t find the right words to describe the effort you put into compiling this, in such details and depth. I wish I was as thorough as you are when I first start researching for my build. As Randy pointed out, I too lean towards the OT TK heritage for the Knee Belt / Ammo Belt. Yes, to me the TK Commander is different (and the TK Incinerator for that matters), but I still want it to be in somewhat unison went standing beside a squad of OT TK. A lot has changed since the release of PC version of “The Force Unleash”. We have seen figures and busts, big and small released (as secondary visual references). The new DICE “Battlefront” series gave us many references of the game style TK. I theorize the developers can go full ANH/ESB style but they chose to honor the “tradition” of going ROTJ-ish for game characters. Hence is it perfectly logical to follow the new in game model for high definition details for these game-born characters. I think the proposed CRL change is not a 100% “game” or 100% “screen look” thing; instead this is a “Best of both worlds” solution that will make TKC build easier to follow and much more achievable for a higher standard, for both new builders or conversions of existing set. I too will look into my set and apply some of these changes.

I’ll work on the brow tomorrow. 5 hours at the armor party and 3 hours round trip drive, I’m done lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

During fitting I noticed that I could sew the shoulder and elbow gasket together so removed the velcro as I also found out that i don`t need it and it`s crowed enough in the suit Then is was the matter of attatching it to the undersuit, used glue to facilitate placement and it worked out Finished pruduct - did someone say Lord Vader

I’d agree with my fellow Daniel. ;-) From the RS gallery: Wonderfully wonky. :-)

I know... however, after consulting with Garrison members, I’m fine with it. I’d rather go all out on another kit (non Anovos) and take my time on it, not caring if it took a year or two to get there... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going the industrial strength Velcro route. For someone that may only suit up a few times a year due to time, I think it will be fine. Used E6000 for a little extra stick. Need to do a couple more pieces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are no requirements for a return edge on the bottom of the chest for Stunt or Hero. In a lot of areas they add a thicker look to the armor, but in others they can be impractical and/or downright uncomfortable! If you take a look at the screen used armor, (pics below) there are a LOT of places where it was removed completely, (shoulder bells, biceps, tops of the thighs, wrists, forearm openings, sides of the chest/back pieces), etc. A few folks who have needed to cut them down significantly for sizing purposes have actually recreated them using a heat sealing iron for that thicker look, but to be honest it is a LOT of work. Plus, heat sealing irons can destroy a perfectly good piece of armor very quickly if you are not adept at using one, so I for one say leave them off. The tops/bottoms of the kidney, top of the posterior, tops of the calves and bottom of the thighs should be kept on, though (even if minimally) for the thicker look.

Hiya, Reshaping the parts in hot water should only be used if there is a specific part where you need to adjust the shape. Most armour is made to the right shape in the first place so won’t require a hot water bath. If you find a specific area that isn’t quite fitting you correctly, post it up and we’ll advise ref hot water bath, if required. :-)

Not bad but you need to get your brow up some. Easy fix Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk

It’s not really washing it’s more soaking in hot water and it really depends on what sections and if they actually need any heat at all. Using heat on ABS is tricky and does need some practice before you jump right in I suggest that you continue to build everything and post images of areas you think may need some heat shaping, I’m sure you’ll get all the responses needed ASAP

You don’t need any return edge on the front or back of the forearms so I’d personally be more inclined to match up the fronts and trim the rear, but that’s me

Parquette, I agree and have made plans to get some of the Vac Formed ROTK stuff that NaturalBorn and Head Shot Props are working on. BTW, I just got a black Series helmet so is there any change you can fix the pictures on your how to modify thread? Most of the pictures of what you have done to modify the helmet are not showing up. Update, Ok, the repair has commenced. First, I found some white craft foam that is slightly wider than the inside of the drop boxes. I am confident that the drop boxes are causing all the damage to the top of the thighs. I cut and glued some of this foam inside the drop boxes and this should fix this. I will add the Velcro straps soon. Next, I glued a piece of HIPS to the inside of the back plate to fix a crack. I still need to sand this and add more Velcro to this part. With the cracking of the shoulder strap, I have decided to attempt to make some rubber or foam shoulder straps. First, I needed to make a flat version of the shoulder strap. I used some ¼” plywood and I cut a lot of these ½ rounds then glued them in place on the plywood. I framed out a box and glued the shoulder strap inside. Then I filled it with Smooth-on Rebound 25. I would have used OOMOO 30 but the OOMOO I had, went bad and solidified. So Rebound -25 is a bit thicker but its still silicone. Once the mold cured, I pulled it out of the frame and removed the shoulder strap. So far it looks good. Well that’s it for the update so far. Thanks for the interest.

I agree with Glen about the higher levels, but you never know you may reconsider later on. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Great progress, it's always good to have others experienced eyes on hand to guide you. A shame you won't be going for the higher levels at this stage but you never know you could change your mind later Keep up the great work.

Slightly below, but the best way to tell is if you try them on with your undersuit and boots on. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Haha, join the club. Gotcha. Riiight, GML. Lemme shoot it over to mine. Thanks!

Man, I'm beginning to not know what to do without your quick replies, Rat! Cool. Rounding corners is easy enough. Seems to me the old suits had real sharp edges though. I mean, look at Luke's suit here. http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/fisd1/media/ANH/bluray/2 cropped/abdetail.jpg.html And his button plate is cut pretty much to the raised part! Argh.

Not edges. Corners, they're called corners. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

... so as I asked that question about it feeling loose I realized I had answered my own question, trim it! "One of the things I'm learning is how much space do I *think* I need vs. how much is enough for mobility" ... and I did and it's better already.

Yeah and the two are not always the same. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

The help is very much appreciated! ... Yeah, one of the things I'm learning is how much space do I *think* I need vs. how much is enough for mobility lol

Glad to help with that spacing. It was one I sort of struggled with as I was building as well. Who knows if they will or not it would be nice though. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Thanks Rat - you're right, I'll trim the biceps down a bit more. I've been generous with the spacing Alright, sounds good! Also, I did try the alternative pairings a suggested by Tony, but the upper edges did not line up well at all. Maybe Anovos got the labeling right by now?!

Those look good. If you notice there is a slightly sharper taper on your inside piece and the longer swoop is on the outside. From what I know and I may be corrected by tony or someone else, but that is the proper alignment for them. This is how mine look if it helps. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

That`s a feature of the original armor That`s up to you

So they look pretty good. However it does seem that you have a bit of room to play with in the bicep sizing. I mean it appears that you have nearly a half inch between you and the armor and quite a bit of return edge. This could cause some discomfort and "armor bite" down the road I would suggest bringing the return edge down a little more and tightening the fit just a little more. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

That was my thought to, when thinking about it I was wondering why no one else seemed to be doing that, atleast not on any builds I read and I read alot of them...then I "found" Tony`s turtorial in the main TFA section and was like "aaahh"

Roger that, appreciate the clarification. Thanks Daniel!

Goodluck on your centurion application!!!

Yep, thanks Tony. Seen those and I'd add a wider view of the one you have above with a few more standing to the left which really calls out how much the gap varies in the movie. From left to right: Trooper #1 has significant gap on left leg, #2 has minimal gap that looks the best (and probably hobbles about a lot), #3 has significant gap on both legs, and #4 has a very nice minimal on both (but probably rubs pieces together every time he walks). With your input, I think I'll wait to trim the length and determine positioning on the lower leg until I can get the thigh and sniper knee in place, then pick the position that allows adequate movement - walking and climbing steps with as minimal gap as possible. On another note. I forgot to ask about fitment. circumference-wise. I haven't been able to find much referencing the fit on the calves, unlike the arms, thighs and torso. I know to fit the pieces on my leg and shore them in to my size and shape using tape, then measure the excess the needs to be trimmed (I actually use the ukswrath-anovos method of overlap-measurement-divide by half-cut) so to be clear on fitment, I'm looking for how snug or loose the piece should be not the contour to my leg - shape. I'm guessing I can have the calves a bit more snug as compared to other pieces? or should it be loose and leverage the boot to somewhat hold it up leaving a finger or two gap and shore up inside with foam. etc. ? Sorry if I see to be beating this one to death. With each component, I go back to my list of build favorites and scour through that section, taking note of any significant influences and tips. If I don't find references (and I dig a fair amount) I like to call them out in my build with the hope of filling in gap on topics not often discussed and of particular interest to a newer builder (like myself).

Understood. What a shame. Would have been awesome however. No problem. Anytime. You can use CA glue, E6000 or a combination of both. In some cases even green stuff can work like an adhesive. You can use a thin piece from a sheet of spring steel (like in the picture below), or cut a small spring from a ballpoint pen to shape. Well I have come across a few original scopes with some sort of 'enhancement' on the small lens. It was only the ribbed section though, but looked like simply screwed onto the front end. Here is an example. Maybe Brian @Bulldog44 can chime in and tell us more...

What a fabulous build, you should be very proud.

Great work, some nice detailing, well done.

Agree with the above. Vcoder reference photo

Very nice. FWIW my T-21 utilizes plastic air line for the tubing.

Agree with Tony, the low brow look is more the hero version, stunts have some white showing under the brow trim, some great references here http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm You may also want to straighten the sides of the vocoder, they are quite angled. Also match up the directions your mic tips are pointing.

“Time to wire that bad boy up with some electronics lol”… Ukswrath, there may be a time for that in the future but that time is not now. I made the trigger functional in case I decided to do just that in the future. Since most of the parts were glued in place with E-6000, deconstruction to add electronics will be somewhat difficult. DEVOLVER, thank you for the compliment. Update, Well, like I said previously, I did not like who the “D” seal looked so I found a better option. I purchased about 25’ of 7/64” Windshield washer vac tube. This hose is a stiffer and thicker walled rubber tube. So I removed the “D” seal. Next I drilled a small hole for the washer tube to be inserted into the barrel shroud on the bottom near the collar closest to the feed tray. I spread some E-6000 all over the barrel shroud where the washer tube will be wrapped. I locked the starting end of the washer tube in the hole and started wrapping the tube. Keeping constant tension on the washer tube as I wrapped it around the barrel shroud till I hit the end point. I drilled another hole and locked the end of the tube inside the hole. Presto, a better looking T-21. Well that finishes the Rogue One T-21. Thanks for the interest.

LOL! Sometimes yeah. Yeah so far as I know there's no measured requirements on that. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Man you're fast! I figured it would need to, but felt worried that it's too close to the ... what's it called... ribbed part of the forearm that faces everyone ?

I may be corrected, but I would say yes that all needs to go. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

First Thanks for seeing this to the end Glen I'm sure this research will maybe lead you to make your next costume! That would be what? #30 something As for your first point I agree with you totally with keeping it towards OTTK heritage. When I did mine I thought alot about the knee pack. Should I go OT or try it up high. I clamped it and set it on table and looked at it for a few days and concluded I'd go original location. The factors for me was why would it be different on just his armor? I don't think fan's would really notice and the power cells are closer and longer in reference and we have OT style so...... I still stand the Ab rivets should be as in reference and also matching kidney rivets added to CRL. Making that really an easy mod to convert to TKC. Which makes for another option then going Sandy.(I love my Sandy Peeps!) just keeping in house options available! The belt is a tough one for the extra length. Most makers dont leave what you really need. My WTF was almost 2". My RT could do it. Rob gave like 4". Maybe in Blue Centurion requirement it could be added if armor supports it tabs should be longer to match game closer with "*". Besides that keep boxes at edge and maybe note cloth belt favors top of plastic portion with extra on bottom. That's about it for me. Looking foward to seeing others thoughts

It's on the top menu go across to Gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/ There are several folders, general reference, screen captures, costume parts and so on. It's a great section to go to when you are stuck, just don't add rivets on the coverstrips, that was an on set quick fix

Was going to suggest the higher grit later as well, but you beat me to it Glen. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Once you have sanded as flat as you can try using some finer sandpaper, 600, 1200 and then ultrafine, it will help to get rid of the scratches the course sandpaper left. Also use an automotive cutting compound will help to bring the shine back

I also sewed my together, it's a lot easier to put on and troop in

Hiya. Nice progress. :-) Just a couple of things, although it might be the lighting on a couple. You mentioned possibly over trimming the side of the chest. To me, it looks like you have lots more that could be trimmed off for more screen accuracy: I’ve also marked on this what looks like a molded cut-line (?) Ref It looks like there are more cut-lines on the top of the kidney plate: Again, might just be the lighting but thought I’d mention it, just in case. :-)

Here are some photos of a full commission I recently finished.

Made alot of progress this week,,,, next week ill do the trigger