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Hehe - the beauty of our beloved, wonky, hand painted ANH TKs - they are all unique.

Until we have better sources, please use the below as the paint guide.

Thank you both for the feedback. I figured once I clean it up with a toothpick those lines will be thinner. Always pays to have a bit more to work with and tidy it up from there.

I would personally thin the black lines as well, but I don't think this is outside of acceptable range. Thanks for the ref, Dan. I also found this one in the gallery. Looks like the lines are a bit thicker in some spots here.

Hi Jeff, Making good progress. :-) If you wanted to tidy up the outside of those black lines a little, a wooden toothpick can work wonders, (used gently). Although each lid can be slightly different, you could probably go a little thinner in the black, if you wanted too. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok Daniel, Since I couldn't post my school troop video, I put together a video compilation of trooper action shots. Prepare yourself for 3 minutes of heart-pounding thrills as I put my armour through it's paces. TK34575 Video Hopefully the link works - when it comes to video and youtube, I have no idea what I'm doing.

While I won't be the quickest, I am going to try and document my build of this kit. I have most of the items on hand already, and just waiting to get started. Armor: KB props (just ordered his new resin TD) Gaskets: Geekypink/Soulart ... Can't recommend these enough Bucket: Anovos Std line Gloves and Boots: Imperial Boots (Have the gloves, waiting on the boots) Undersuit: Stormtrooper undersuit Belt: Trooperbay F-11: I will be printing this myself

No problem - happy to help!

Luc explained it perfectly, the low resolution photos makes it look like the ammo is part of thigh making the cut out on the right thigh look bigger than the left. Mark (AP)

I'll definitely go cut on that red line right away, then! And I think that for now I prefer keeping the notch as square as possible. If needed I might change that later, but right now I guess it'll stay like this. I'll post more pics of how it evolves later, thanks guys!

Yep, like Luc said - red line on the ab. If you wanted to remove more on the kidney, you probably could, but it looks good in the pics. I have seen builds where that notch is pretty short (horizontally along the top, but I think it is always ~22mm tall). But yeah, leaving a little room won't hurt either. You can always add some foam later. The issue I had with the ab and kidney being a little large was that the belt pulled the two pieces together and they started to overlap. I had to add some internal strapping to keep this from happening, but it was a pretty easy fix - and now I don't have to worry about gaining a few pounds. The belt will make a difference with how these pieces end up fitting - or at least how they fit together. Things are looking nice. Keep up the great work David!

Since the seam repair will be in a spot that is not covered by the strips, you should make ABS paste and use that.

Took this photo from TK-18004's Centurion application thread. You can see a clear photo of the thigh that has a cut out in the back. The ammo pack on the right thigh, at low resolution, may give the illusion of being part of the thigh.

Yes, hand painting is best in my opinion. I think the thickness of the black is good, other than in the trap on the right side of the forehead where the paint bled.Goign back over the area with blakc will help get a nice clean look.

That is super helpful and exactly what I was looking for! You're the best!

Awesome!! Just double checking though, Brother!! This image was tweaked again, and the one in the post isn't the one that is being produced, since it's an older version right? We adjusted the helmet as requested for accuracy. The v2 is what was approved for the FOTK Name Badges and was going to be for the Patch Run. Just want to be sure you have the final! Thanks, Y'all!! I am definitely looking forward to seeing it made!! -- Berbs

Anything on the inside of the suit is not part of the CRL, is that what you mean?

Hi, Luc! I just looked through my posts again and noticed that this information is missing - sorry about that! Here are the belt box measurements that I went with. The plate that is velcroed to the large pouch is 1/2" thick. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr The three-piece box has a base of 1" thick. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr The top/faceplate of the three-piece box is 3/8" thick. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr The smaller, squarer box next to that is 1/2" thick. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr The front boxes are 1" thick (on the ends, thinner in the middle thanks to the curved backs) in total width including front and back pieces. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Finally, the two front/faceplates of the middle two boxes are 1/2". Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Sorry I didn't clearly outline that during the posts in the build itself. I will link this reply to the main index thread so it's officially in the mix. Hope that helps!

Hi Taylor, I may have missed it though I looked through the thread for it, how did you trim the belt boxes? KB's boxes insert into each other, so how did you decide how deep to make them? There's no visible mould line, unfortunately. Measurements of depth/photos would be suuuuper appreciated! Thanks.

Hi Jason and first I would like to welcome you to the FISD! Our goal here is to help everyone achieve their dreams of becoming an amazing stormtrooper and to assist members to become part of the 501st if that is their goal. So I know you have been asked already if you purchased this armor through anovos. It's not that members are saying your lying but we are just concerned if you did not and bought it through a third party. From the pictures it really does not appear to be Anovos. Could you elaborate on what your GML has told you? If you are denied entry then you are usually told why and most GMLs will even coach you on how to fix any issues. Anyway, on to your armor. Lets start from top to bottom. It appears that you are trying to build an ANH set of armor because most of your components are ANH. So if that is the case, then your Black series helmet will need to be replaced. The black series helmet would work for a Rogue One stormtrooper. Next, could you provide better pictures of your shoulder bridges? It appears from the photos that they are not ribbed and they should be. Down from that we can go to your shoulder bells. It appears that the right shoulder bell is bigger then your left. So I would recommend trimming down the right shoulder bell some more. BUT I would not do that until you sand down the jagged edges of your left shoulder bell. Try and make all of the lines on your armor smooth. I say do that first because after you sand down your edges and make it smooth then you could maybe get away with just rotating your shoulder bells back more and it may be fine. On to your biceps. As someone has mentioned your left bicep is upside down. And yes that one coverstrip is too long and should be trimmed back. Next your forearms appear to be okay. From your pictures, I cannot see anything that is too bad. The handplates? They look like to me that they will need to be replaced. They should be pantagonal in shape. It appears that yours are maybe cut wrong and have some wavy lines through out them. Your chest plate seems to be fine. Your back plate seems to be fine. As someone has mentioned, your kidney plate is upside down. Your butt plate was overtrimmed. There should be a tab that goes farther into your crotch area then what you have. While I'm not a GML, I have a feeling that that part will need to be replaced. Next your ab plate. Ok so your ab buttons will need to be replaced. Atleast the bigger one. It looks like it is a mashup of an unknown piece of plastic with some belt rivet covers glued onto it. Also as mentioned, the buttons will need to be repainted on both plates. Next onto your belt. Your belt plate seems like it should work. However, I'm still trying to figure out what the holster is. Can we get better pictures of that? Also as mentioned, the holster is on the wrong side for ANH. The holster will also need to be attached to the belt with rivets, snaps, or chicago screws. Moving on to the thermal detonator. The cylinder will need to be painted grey. In order to keep this shorter I will quickly mention the legs. You have been provided photos of the thigh ammo pouch. It looks like yours is trimmed wrong and will probably need to be replaced. And the final part I want to touch on is the shoes. Those will not pass approval and will need to be replaced. I know this all seems like a lot Jason but you can make it work. You will need to take your time and focus. I strongly urge you to take a look at the 501st CRLs. On there it will show you what every part is supposed to look like and it is your guide to approval. The link is here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Also, please take a look around our amazing forum. Look at various build threads, Expert Infantry approval threads, and Centurion approval threads. When you look at those, then you will learn about the costume and what it is supposed to look like. Also please reach out to your local garrison. I'm sure there are many helpful members in the Orlando area that would love to give you a hand and steer you in the right direction. I hope none of this discourages you and you would want to power through all of this. This really is an awesome hobby filled with great people with a very worthwhile cause.

I loved this!! I so wish they would have kept it. What you see in that scene is the Phasma of the Scyre we read about in her novel!!

It’s been a challenge because there really aren’t very many build threads but I’m doing the best I can and figuring it out as I go and I have a lot of help from my friends in my garrison. [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Black makes sense to me.

Try this, Phil:

It feels like things are coming along just swimmingly. My compression shirt gets here tomorrow so I can start doing some real fitting on the torso pieces. Being a stay at home mom is nice because I get a few hours to work on this in the mornings and the glue can cure during the day. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

That is awesome! A true stormtrooper at work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update : Paint Ok, I can't believe I've burned a week and a half (evenings) just testing paint. Enough. I have a game plan....if anyone follows this for their build, this is what I'm doing.... (I'll update this image if/as things evolve) Counter, Power Cylinders = 1, 2 Handle Grip = 1, 4, 5 Handle (non-grip) = 1, 2, 9 Stock, End Cap, Trigger Guard = 1, 3, 2 Scope = 1, 2 with weathering of 6, 7 Receiver Tube = 1, 2 Bolt Area = 1, 9 with weathering of 8, 7 The T-Tracks = 1, 2 but may follow with something more matte. Everything here seems to play well together. The base layers are all lacquer and the Testors/Humbrols are enamel so any layering should be fine. I opted against the Testors Matte Black spray I was testing because it was REALLY matte. I changed my mind and liked the way the Tamiya Matte Black still had a bit of shine to to. I think it makes things look a little more like metal. How much more? I'll post a couple of "teaser" pics in a sec.... Mark

The shorter swoop goes on the inside conforming to the muscle (like pic2) but in the end of the day it can be either way, the original armor had a mix of double-up parts and consisted of two inner halves and two outer halves and so on - just go with what looks and feels the best and remember to size the shins with your boots on

Ok, I've FINALLY made some descent progress on the counter. First up I used some cut up cigar box nails (really small) to fashion pins to hold the counter reset button in place. This is to give it some added strength in case it gets bumped. Hopefully it won't break off so easily. Then I added the screws from T-Jay's kit as well as one of my own to the counter. Replacing the poorly cast resin ones by grinding them out with a dremel. I also glued on the top plate and window that I made (correctly positioned this time) and filled the edges with "green stuff" to hide the seams (again). I should mention, I really didn't like working with "green stuff" at first. It's REALLY sticky. It kept sticking to my fingers and to any sculpting tools I tried to use to smooth it down and shape it. I got so fed up that I went to a local hobby store and picked up some modelling putty. It was Squadron Products fast drying, white putty, hobby filler. But you know what, I didn't like that either. It's a cream that goes on easily, but it's kind of "sandy" in texture and, worst of all, it wants to keep that sandy texture when it gets painted. Almost like wood the way it absorbs paint instead of paint sitting on the surface. Anyway, I went back to "green stuff" because it takes paint like plastic. Super smooth. And I learned to keep a bowl of water handy when I'm working with it. I keep my fingers and tools wet and the "green stuff" behaves better. I was getting really anxious to see what the counter would look like painted. So I took a break and built a little spray booth using 1" PVC plumbing pipe and some plastic "drop cloth" painter sheets. It's about 3 1/2 feet square. It's kinda cold this time of year and it's gonna rain for months so I can't paint outside. This way I can paint in the garage where it's at least a bit warmer. I also did something a little different with the counter window. Instead of trying to mask it off with tape, which would have been really difficult, I painted it with liquid latex. I dressed up as a zombie for Halloween last year and I still had some liquid latex left over. I gave the clear window about 4-5 coats, letting each one dry for several minutes before I started the next coat. This formed a barrier to keep the paint off but still something I could peel off easily. In this case I think it worked better than tape. Ok, big reveal.... Here's the counter with the liquid latex barrier still on... And with the latex peeled off... From the side: And a before/after: I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. Makes me feel good about my first build. I'm not going to do any weathering yet. I'll save all that until the end. I think the power cylinders will be next... Mark

Submission Photos With all the building and strapping now complete, it's time to kit up for some photos! Big thanks to my garrison mate Sean for helping out with the iPhone photography! Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr