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Happy Birthday Tino As you can see, we already looked identically on our last troop. Our composure is the same also. Seems these two Stormtrooper are coming from the same drill academy

Thanks so much everyone!!! Thank you Tony for the review and for the tips on what needs improvement!! Much appreciated [emoji16][emoji1303] Those who’ve followed my build thread know that I’ve overcome some challenges to get this far, so I’m definitely driving on further to fix these items to make my kit even better!! ( and maybe Santa will bring me a Hyperfirm E-11 for Christmas [emoji319][emoji16][emoji320]) Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

Loctite (the removable one) would work too.

You are absolutely sailing along here Tom! Thanks for the kudos Dan and here are some of the more relevant pics from my WIP. Here are some design considerations as well - rounding out the edges here and there if you like, following SMG references. cheers, and happy building to ya!

Looking great, Tom. If you wanted, you could shape the aluminium channel a little. Check out Jesse’s (Dracotrooper) thread as he is doing some really detailed work on, well, on every single bit! ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ryan, you should be buying lotto tickets.

I picked up this from amazon: Beistle 20731 Velvet Santa Hat with Plush Trim, One Size Fits Most (Red/White) [2-Pack] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BNW839/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OYYjAb0E4Y2CQ Using a seam ripper I split one of the two hats along one seam up to the ball on top. The other hat I split along both seams to remove one section of the hat. Using some safety pins I spliced in the removed section into the first hat and test fitted it on the helmet. It was a little loose, but close enough along the original seam lines. After that it always as simple as running a stitch line up the original seam lines of the hat to make the addition permanent. My sewing skills suck, but it’ll do for a quick job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thank you Paul and FISD community for the acknowledgement! Feels great to help newcomers with their TK builds and watching them develop into legion members and officers. Our 2017 Team Armor Builds in the Bay Area have come to an end now and looking forward to starting them up again in the Spring of 2018. Happy Holidays to all! Walter Ronald & Marie Ann (my wife) TK-61972 & BH-31680 Home of the Team Armor Builds in the Bay Area

Hey all, I've been looking to do some voluntary work for quite some time now. Tried a few places but I was never feeling home...until I find you guys. I read a newsletter a few years back that was detailing the visit of group of Stormtroopers to a little kid with cancer. That (and my love for Star Wars) convinced me that this was what I wanted to do. But now, which costume to choose? After speaking with some members in the comiccons, I chose the ESB Stormtrooper. Mainly because I love the movie but also because the holster is on the right side. When the Big Brown Box arrived, I was so excited but where to start? and how to avoid the usual newbies stupid mistakes? VERY BIG THANKS TO UKSWRATH for the following post that was oh so precious. Now, I'm approved, my first troop was priceless seeing the smiles of the kids approaching...because once they were inches from me, I could not see them anymore because of the helmet Thanks to the guys of the Foretesse Imperiale in Quebec for helping me finish the armor and you all for welcoming me in this big family where I already feel at home. Dominic aka TK57996.

Regarding the brackets, the nuts have a tendency to come loose and I didn`t want to risk that happening during a troop so I glued mine, should have said that.

Nothing wrong with screen accuracy.

I only put my brackets on yesterday. It wasn't difficult and didn't take much time. Swapping out a piece would take minutes. I did brackets for screen accuracy. I've seen lots of builds with snaps that look great though. I guess it depends where you want to take this. Enjoy your build. I know I am enjoying mine. Not nearly as challenging as I thought it would be. I started out quite nervous but quickly became comfortable with the whole process. Good luck and have fun!

I went with snaps (and velcro in a couple spots) because my return edges were pretty flimsy and I didn't want to deal with all the extra shimming/reinforcing that would've entailed. Being able to break down my kit if anything ever happens is a nice bonus though - although with a screwdriver the same can be said for the bracket system.

Well then, carry on

It`s not for 501st approval but EIB and Centurion it is. I use brackets and that works great and it`s screen-accurate (love that) however you can`t take the torso apart, for that snaps work great I used a knife and tin-snips but I hear the lexan works like a charm so might be worth the trip Best of luck on your build - here`s to becoming a Stormtrooper

Right!

I would suggest trimming the coverstrips on your thighs so they don't go past the seams, they're more likely to poke and pinch the way they are now.

Looks like almost everything is trimmed already, that's probably the most time consuming part. You'll be up and running in no time.

Little more work done tonight: end cap completed with a nice cubby for the D ring and holder to sit in. The circular groove is a little wide at the moment but will sort that out with some green stuff once glued into place. How is it looking? Ready for glue? I assume I've got it the right way up! Haha Also a little work on the front sight: by the time I'd separated it out of the one piece block you get with Doopies, I had to build it back up again with green stuff. I think I've more or less covered the same dimensions as the Doopies was, though I've taken the sides down lower to place the little grub (which goes on the right... right?). Still to make the little grooves on either side Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input! I feel like I can power through and make it happen. I plan on keeping the length in the kidney and heat bending the shoulders down a little. I'll trim the top-side where the kidney meets the ab to reduce the overlap and then create the closure. I saw on Sha Sha Shu's build thread she used the the split-rivet-inside-of-snap method and I love it for functionality and look, so I'm going to try to recreate that using elastic to hold it together. I just ordered my belt, neck seal, and holster from trooperbay.com ! I watched through trooperbay's videos on the site and it helped a bit to get the right idea for some the accessories like bells and the knee plates. Though my goal is to have the body & legs COMPLETED by this weekend. It's not too far a stretch, I don't think. and by completed I mean the pieces wearable without tape. lol Lately I've just reinforced the shins. That was the first piece I glued and the backs are still wide open. they should be finished by now. Oh! I was thinking about doing elastic on the shins... It would appear everyone does velcro, bra-hooks and magnets. I originally wanted to do magnets, but don't have the time to dedicate. So now I have velcro and was thinking about reinforcing with elastic. We shall see.

Pretty sure the rest of the armor isn't though!

Updates! End cap clip now done. Cut the original clip itself out of the holder, and after a lot of sanding, got it down to the right size to fit in Tino's aluminium holder. Nearly drilled the holes too wonky, as usual lol but got the nail through in the end haha. Also installed a bit of spring left over from the trigger into the back of the clip. Drilled a hole of about 4mm for thi's so the spring actually just sits in nicely and is held in place by force rather than glue. Little more work on the power cylinders too just installed the nuts and bolts on the ends How's it all looking? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Nice work Sam [emoji106] You’ll have this nailed in no time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I would imagine if you lightly sanded the interior first it would hold even better.

Congratulations!

Last 3 images on first post (but oddly enough, they now load). Nevermind I suppose.

Congrats trooper! Welcome to EIB!

You're a madman! Good Luck!

As for the thigh ammo belt, trim off the majority of the outer return edge first (The area outside the vertical boxes). To mold use the hot water bath technique. I found it easiest to soften it up then wrap it around a can equivalent to the size of your lower thigh area (allow for the mounting ends to remain straight). Let cool, repeat as necessary until you've obtained the desired shape. It doesn't have to be perfect.

Thanks Darren, i will Hi, Mainly PlasticDip the inside of all the parts, But also around the inside of the ankles and spats i added Felt. To both add cushion and protection to the boots. For the Yoke and Chest Plate, i added Small D ring Rubber weatherstripping to also protect the parts form scathing against one another. Hope that helps.

One of my garrison mates told me that he used one of those oversized red stockings to make his TK santa hat. It looked fantastic! Magnets are a great idea to hold the santa hat on! Why didn't I consider that option? I ended up using velcro stuck to my helmet and sewn onto the hat in four 2-inch sections (one on the front, back, left, right). I can easily remove the sticky velcro part off the lid after the holidays. It stuck well and stayed put during (and after!) the parade.

As the wires of the OLED needs to go into the pipe I drilled a little hole in the pipe, just beside the Hengstler counter. I also made an hole in the metal part on which the hengstler counter and scope are mounted on. When it all is mounted, the wires are almost invisible (black, and close to the hengstler-counter).

Next part is the OLED itself. As the complete Printboard does not fit into the scope, the screen has to be separated from this board. (As I bought multiple OLED I sacrificed one to figure out how to separate it without damaging it). Luckily the OLED is mounted to the printboard using double side tape and are no functional parts beneath the OLED. So using a knife and carefully move it between the OLED and printboard, the OLED can be seperated. After removing the 4 pins at the printboard, the size also decreases a bit. To keep the OLED straight, I made a little square in the hole I drilled. This means I made some additional corners in the scope at the location where the OLED should be positioned. This way the scope cannot fall into the hole. And because of the glued lense it cannot fall out either. To create the red colour I glued the piece of plastic I described earlier onto the OLED-screen. After getting it all in, is looks like the image below : After the lens is glued it looks like :

Next part is positioning the OLED-screen in the scope. To create the illusion of a "real" scope I bought a small outdoor monocular telescope 8x20 (yeah.. from aliexpress). This scoop contains different lenses which perfectly fit into the E-11 scope. After dismantling this scope I retrieved three lenses: These lenses I used at the front of the scope as well as the back. To create space in the scope I used a size 22 wood-drill and drill approx. 4 cm deep. To create space for the wires i drilled a small hole in one the support blocks. Of course I also drilled a hole in the front to place one of the small lenses. As I was in the mood of drilling I drilles three little holes to replace the resin screws for real ones.

Moving on from my first helmet that still isn’t complete I learnt that the lens is best installed before you make the final cap and back connection. i had 2 packs of line 24 snaps sitting here so I thought I would try something to fit the lense. http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- http:// by -matthewwormleaton- the main reason for the snaps is because I have one yellow and one grey lense from my fire fighting gear that I am going to adapt to be able to fit to the helmet if it’s too dark for the green lense. also my suit is done all I need is some white paint for the rivets

The site now works well. I chose the 220V version. yoycart website replica counter The counter has arrived. I made some pictures. Hengstler counter replica (chinese copy) Full ABS housing, but dimensions are the same. I hope the information is useful. Unfortunately, the original is very expensive. (I only get $ 500 a month for work)

You are correct started out as a Shadowtrooper Well...perhaps there still is a few of us clones out there

Good lord. I’m scared now. I just purchased ANH TK kit, my first. Paying it off on payment plan. Final payment would be June, so I figured once it was paid off it would ship, but now I’m wondering if I made the right decision. The price just seemed right and being new to all this, don’t know where else to get a kit really or for that price. Here’s to hoping for the best I guess....

Grats - now you can add building armor to that list. Good luck with the build, and glad to hear we're finally getting our orders fulfilled.

Assembly - Part I, Arm Components Forearms Now comes the first tricky part of the build - the forearms. They are constructed of 4 separate pieces in the KB kit which is luckily fewer than the Anovos kits thanks to box that is included in the mold instead of a separate piece. 1) First, roughly assemble the forearm to test fit it around your body. I use a good deal of painter's tape to hold everything together while I try to slip it around me to make sure I don't cut too much plastic away. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr 2) In the image above, you can see that I marked where to trim the excess plastic with the gold marker line. The size of your forearms will vary based on your body, so be sure to test fit a couple times before trimming anything away! 3) Once the fit is tested and the cuts are made, it's time to install another set of inner shims. These will connect the two side pieces to the main forearm body. You can install both shims to the main body of the forearm - I installed mine separately (one on the main forearm body and another on one side piece) just to allow more room for clamping. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr 4) Once the shims are dry and in place, glue the components together. Magnet, clamp, and set aside to dry. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr 5) Duplicate for the other forearm, clamp, magnet, and set aside to dry once again. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr 6) Once the side pieces are dry and assembled, glue in one side of the detail plate. I held it in place with some clamps. You'll notice that I only glued the rear portion of this piece - that is to allow the front of the forearm opening to flex around the wrist more easily. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr 7) After the first side of the detail plate is glued in, glue the second one in the same way. After both sides are dry, you should have one solid forearm piece. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr 8) Slip it on to ensure the proper fitment. Untitled by Taylor Goodson, on Flickr

Thank you very much for both Tony, the approval for Centurion and the birthday wishes. Don't worry about being a day earlier - THIS already is the best present I can think of. Thanks Dan - and send some birthday wishes to your wife, too - from the unknown guy, who kept you busy with your blaster build (hoping she doesn't mind) Thank you Patrick. Very glad it all worked well. Also many thanks for your assistance in setting up the EIB and Centurion approval threads. I really appreciate this and the good relationship we meanwhile have. Cannot wait for our next troop and for looking identically - well, except for your shiny white armor seeming to come straight from the Galactic Academy. No battle damages or what? Take care, mate. And see you next week. Thanks for your trust in me. If your armor build will be on the same level as your blaster build, you will soon get those badges too. That is for sure. Thank you Shane. Glad to finally be here. It took far too long (was distracted by some blasters and the idea, to only build a static TK display ). Looking forward to many events in my area now and in the future...

ok figured it out.... so over the last week or so, I've gotten a lot of work done on my KB Props TLJ FO bucket...it will become a FOJE. I used Rustoleum 2X white gloss for the base white after priming, and then so far Testors FL Black for the brow/teeth/grill area and Testors GL Black for the lens area and ear area. I bought FL Black and GL Black spray paint but saw using Testors/hand painting was easier... After I remove the tape, I know I'll have some touch ups to do...but at this point it's looking more like a bucket! I plan on using a hard hat liner for the inside w/foam as well...also need to install the lens...etc...

Looks great Good luck on approval

Great work in your progress. Every step is one in the right direction [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No worries, I know it’s the Holiday Season, TLJ is coming out, and it’s the height of trooping season... so I fully understand plus I appreciate you making the time to still do these reviews amidst of all that is going on. Cheers! Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

You'll have to do touch ups while working for the Empire! It's a jungle out there!

Hi all. EIB application all ready to go - just eagerly awaiting forum access. [emoji51] Annoyingly, I might to wait until March next year for my induction. Sad times ... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

woop woop

Hi all, The magic moment when the email reads... “Congratulations! Your costume has been cleared for trooping.” I’m hugely proud to confirm that I’ve been cleared for trooping!!! I might be a little excited right now!!! Thanks to everyone that helped along the way. Next up - EIB and Centurion. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet dreams coming my way