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BDWC

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    277
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About BDWC

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday 02/01/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montgomery, AL

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20180322
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Jim
  • 501st ID
    24233
  • 501st Unit
    Alabama Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

362 profile views
  1. ..or ~ 1-7/8" (...which is not a thing ) I strongly believe that this is exactly a 2.0" wide elastic piece since it was originally made in the UK (English units) and because a 2" elastic is not quite 2" but slightly under, then once stretched longer becomes thinner in width. Once I get back home I will measure and post pictures of my two-year old 'stressed' straps and see if this hypothesis is valid. I'm SUPER curious now... You are really making me think hard today, LOL
  2. Good catch there Swede!!! Oops my bad, I guess it WAS 2".....I honestly forgot the size, but it was the same as my elastic, so I guess it actually is 2" (I'm out of town for Christmas while writing this, so I can't go to my armor box and measure right now) Also, I did not especially like the idea of velcro-ing the bridges, but it was a suggestion from a centurion garrison-mate (who I will not name) and an experiment I needed to try during the time where I had troops more frequently and did not have enough time to sew up and fit new straps. I have since removed the 1/4"x 1" velcro pieces almost a year ago from the back plate, but left the "fuzzy" side pieces on the underside of the bridge pieces to reduce scratching up the back plate from all of the movement each time I stoop down. It is completely unseen as it sits in on one of the 'bump' recesses. And honestly, for the temporary fix this worked good enough at the time as #1) these were non-canon events, and #2) this was better than the bridges continually slipping out then returning UNDER my back plate, which was not only uncomfortable, but made me look like an idiot. All that said, Swede I want to thank you for actually reading my update and chiming in with your 100% correct suggestions and comments. And for the record, my personal pet peeve is the continual overuse of pauldrons.
  3. Time again for me to make a forum appearance and update my build thread I really don't want to be one of those folks that make the build thread and then just leave it to time-out and die as one of the lonely unread threads that must now be deleted due to age and lack of interaction So...for others that have been trooping over a year, here are some more items that I'd like to add to pass along in case it can help another trooper: After 2 years of trooping at a rate of 15-20 troops per year, the elastic shoulder strap just do not hold up over time. OF course I could simply replace them with the original material I used, just not stretched out, and just do this on an 18 month repair cycle,...BUT, I wanted to try another route that a fellow centurion has done with success. I replaced my shoulder straps with canvas! The hardest part was finding 1.5" white canvas. I actually has to source this from a seatbelt manufacturer, LOL. Well, at least I know these will not stretch nor break! I hope that this will also aid in another issue I was having with the shoulder bridges popping out from under the 1/4" elastic on the back plate each time I bent over to talk to a child. With the stretch distance removed I hope that this is fixed as well. I initially tried velcro-ing the bridges to the back plate, but that only make the plastic take the load and wound up cracking them ad with the worn out elastic the velcro simply pulled on the bridges until they cracked . Fortunately this repair led me to reinforce and reshape my bridges, so this should not be an issue regardless. But, now with the canvas straps, I might try the bridge velcro hold-downs on the back plate again to see what happens, and report back here with the results. A major tip I can give for crack repair is to not to try to make it perfect. I tried so hard so many times to sand out the crack, repair it with ABS paste and spent all the extra time with the multi-stages of sanding all to find out this: Just fill the crack with superglue, and add a backer plate with ABS paste. once it's dry and cured, lightly final sand and buff the front side. I fount that the hairline that remains it no different than taking 10 times the effort for a full frontal ABS repair, but without th Meanwhile, using the voicechanger TrooperTalk and an Aker amp, a lot of experimenting went on with myself and a couple of other troopers to find the magic combination. We worked it out over at this thread: And if you checked out this update, I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU, as I try to post my trooping experience and discoveries here as without the same help, wisdom, and brotherhood of the troopers before me, I would never have gotten this far in what is by far my favorite SW character costume to date!!!
  4. Well whether or not TKs have "true" chatter, doesn't matter to me as much as the fact that during troops the background loop just really helps to fill in the time when fans are near but I really have nothing to say Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. I had the same issue, and also used the "remove and locate by tracing onto painter's tape" ( It's amazing how so many troopers come up with the same ideas!!!) This healed to 'cheat' the angle over a bit. I also reinforced my shoulder bridges with an extra layer of scrap ABS glued to the underside. Make sure to hot bath and form the doubler piece to the same curve as the bridge before gluing as you won't be able to reform very much after the reinforcement. Also, I have run into the issue of the bridge jumping out of the 1/4" elastic, but this is because the elastic is over two year old with many, many troops. So I am going to change this out to canvas straps during the winter off troop season, just to give me more "mileage" out of the straps, to hold the back of the bridges in place (without Velcro) , and I am hoping that this will also maintain my shoulder bells slightly higher, too. But overall...YES, hot bath tweaks are your friend!!!
  6. Congrats, trooper! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  7. I actually did that for my screen name: B=2, D=4, W=23, C=3.......BDWC= TK-24233
  8. Awesome work there Eric! I only reinforced my shoulder bridges with a doubler plate of ABS the same width after they started cracking. I never thought of adding a metal strip, that's outstanding! I am looking forward to following your work on the right side kidney alignment tab, as I am looking on adding that as well. Again, great job, and I only wish I had done as much research as you have into upgrading for long term strength and reliability. This kit is going to serve you well for a long time.
  9. Congratulations and welcome to the ranks of white armor!! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. I must say that this is an excellent summary, and these are many things "I wish I would have known" myself before starting this journey. As so many of us know, so much is learned during the process of your armor build, and thank you for taking the time to write down your 'lessons learned' to share with the community. Your tips will be pure gold for any of our new recruits to the white armor ranks! This is truly what the motto *Troopers helping troopers*, it all about!! (also, thanks for the shout out, and thanks for the collaborative help in the search for the best Trooper Talk app settings )
  11. No worries about extra ABS, you'll have plenty once you start trimming out your kit when it arrives I wished I had reinforced mine initially, as after almost two years of trooping with my Anovos kit, I've added several pieces and repairs with ABS paste fixing those cracks Sent from my Imperial TK communicator
  12. Well, What can I say? I haven't been keeping up my WIP thread very well...but A LOT going on!!! A year and a half-ish after joining the 501st, I have now officially made it to Centurion!!! ...been busy trooping and trying to find the sweet spot for my TKtalkie/Aker set-up as it works great, but I just can't seem to get it loud enough under the "feedback threshold". Going to try some more iterations of setting and positioning and see what happens Well, got my Centurion just in time because my belt ammo end boxes and my chest plate neckline are starting to crack/tear-out ...on item #3, I also had some undersuit bleeding occurring, and not with an Anovos suit either. It's a 32degrees heat gear top and it has starting bleeding onto my kit a bit. Luckily, I just ordered some of the generic Amazon replacements and recommended by @justjoseph63. My armor had worn holes in my pants from the lower thigh sections. I did trim those areas a bit, sand all the edges smooth, and even add a couple of pieces of foam to not only save the undersuit, but to prevent any future "armor bites" in these problem areas. I must say though, the thigh garter belt has greatly improved this from my early days of trooping! My problem though, it=s that after ABS pasting backer pieces inside the neck area cracks, and even skimming some ABS paste over the front side, the bled-in black still appears even after sanding much of the filler back off. I now am guessing that I should have sanded it all out BEFORE doing the ABS paste. I am thinking that the ABS repair paste just liquefied the contaminated plastic and spread it out even more...ughhhhh!!! I'll add photos later, but for now I have sanded off all of my 'front-side' repair work and I'm mixing up more ABS paste to try to 'skim and fill' the discolored area. If this does not work, my plan is to just sand and polish out everything the best that I can and just paint over any badly discolored areas. The good news is that at least the crack are firmly repaired and no longer splitting
  13. okay, made my first walking parade today ( about a mile and a half) This accomplished two milestones: 1) longest walk in full armor, and 2) longest walk since having my hip replacement implant 11 months ago Additionally, I finally was able to control my Aker feedback issue and more than doubled my sound volume! This involved not only some minor burst/echo/static sliders adjustment but the major problem solver was mounting a thick strip pf memory foam above the Aker box just blow the neckline on the chest plate. This really blocked out the sound from feeding back up into my helmet that was causing the feedback loop. Absolutely no squawks for about 3 hours of use, I'll call this a major win, and of course the magic volume mark has been "silver sharpied" Another added bonus is that with my birthday just passing , I'm going to apply some of the gift funds to a better and approvable blaster ....more to come
  14. Thanks for the clarifications Tony! I honestly didn't have an answer for bartonajb on this as the CRL really doesn't define those items beyond rhe power cylinders and d-ring requirements at the EIB level. I fully understand, I just didn't have the technical answer for this. Ideally I'd want a sterling de-com to do it right and, as great as they are, I really don't like how the molded blasters are filled in under the scope rail and have obvious seam lines. I'll find the right one out there here for me whether it's a fully built or kit.... but then I am a patient man [emoji848] Thanks everyone for the concern, questions, and excellent discussion. I am always learning more and more each time I log on to FISD [emoji1303] Sent from my Imperial TK communicator
  15. Honestly, I don't know, but I will ask Tony. In my EIB review it was simply mentioned that I would need to replace it with a more accurate one. PLEASE, if you find out, let me know as well, since I saw no restrictions per the CRL, but then I'm no expert on their interpretation either.
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