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WTF ANH STUNT TK Build Thread


StrmTRPR85

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15 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

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I think Walt can do the Kessel Run faster than solo with the speed he sent out these new shins

Careful Jeff, there appears to be a Jawa in the picture stealing the shins! They might be small, but they are quick.

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58 minutes ago, LTM said:

Careful Jeff, there appears to be a Jawa in the picture stealing the shins! They might be small, but they are quick.

That jawa was digging for more parts.  The only thing he found was thermal detenator end caps.  Then the jawa took the parts for me down to my workshop...who knew they cleaned up too.:jawa2:

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1 hour ago, ukswrath said:

YOU CAN DO IT! :peace:

Soon so very soon!  I've been thinking exactly how to close the gap on the back of those shins.  I think instead of heating the shin and bending that I'll water bath the coverstrip and bend that slightly

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I'm roughly 3/4 done with a WTF Sandtrooper. Just finishing up the shins before the final calf cover strip. My calf sides are pretty close to alignment. 

batch_20180523_200124-crop.jpg

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14 hours ago, ukswrath said:

I'm roughly 3/4 done with a WTF Sandtrooper. Just finishing up the shins before the final calf cover strip. My calf sides are pretty close to alignment. 

batch_20180523_200124-crop.jpg

Do the have to align if the cover strips hides this? Or can there be some overlap of the two halves as long as the coverstrip is centered

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1 hour ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

Do the have to align if the cover strips hides this? Or can there be some overlap of the two halves as long as the coverstrip is centered

Typically the halves don't overlap each other, especially if trimmed and assembled correctly. 

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When I was working on my WTF kit, I had pretty big misalignments on the calf openings. I banged my head on it for a while before realizing that I had to heat and shape the *fronts* of the shins in order to get the calves to close properly, not the back. I did use a heat gun, but I'd used it a bunch at that point in my build and was pretty confident with it. I assume you might have gotten scared off of it, but if you do use a heat gun again, maintain a decent distance, keep the heat gun moving, and be patient. A great tip I got from another build thread here is to heat the plastic just to the point that the plastic starts to lose its 'spring', then remove the heat immediately. Then hold the plastic in place until it cools.

 

Here is a shin before heat shaping:

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And after (this is with no velcro yet):

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7 hours ago, shashachu said:

I assume you might have gotten scared off of it

Definitely more apprehensive on using it again.  I think its more since I am using the elastic hooks I just need to come to terms of what my expectation is for closing them in the back will be.  I'm in the process of reassembling the new ones now and should have some pics posted up in the coming days

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Yeah, I think the thing to keep in mind is that you'll have the easiest time if you can get the calves to roughly stay in place without fasteners, whether it be the elastic/hooks, velcro, etc.

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Shins are mostly assembled.  I still need to remove excess on the top inside and take care of the long edge.  Calf closures are glued in, now I just have to fix this gap on the bottom.  I know whats getting a hot water bath this weekend!

 

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I have put my black elastic in between the bicep and the forearm

 

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and got my screws painted on the thermal detonator

 

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Do people paint both sets of screws or just the one that will be most visible?

 

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Going to start playing with electronics soon!

 

Currently I got my batteries that I will be using charging

 

uJvTacdQue6vS8Rdx_YXN2JlrCzCL1zCkGS5WcEN

 

These are Lithium Ion 18650 Rechargeable batteries with 3.6V and 3350mAh of capacity.  My plan is to use 3 of them wired in series to give me a total voltage of 10.8V to power my ROM/FX and thinking of using another 2 wired in series to power my fans.  I will be experimenting this weekend

 

My goal is to have all the batteries/electronics in the helmet and not have to worry about extra wires running in/out of it.

 

Batteries located here:

http://www.batteryspace.com/lithium18650-rechargeable-cell-3-6v-3350mah-12wh-button-top-pcb-protected-ncr18650b---un38-3-passed.aspx

Charger located here:

http://www.batteryspace.com/nitecore-d4-digicharger-4-bay-universal-battery-charger-for-li-ion-imr-lifepo4-and-ni-mh-ni-cd-batteries---ce-listed.aspx

Edited by StrmTRPR85
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53 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

Going to start playing with electronics soon!

 

Currently I got my batteries that I will be using charging

 

These are Lithium Ion 18650 Rechargeable batteries with 3.6V and 3350mAh of capacity.  My plan is to use 3 of them wired in series to give me a total voltage of 10.8V to power my ROM/FX and thinking of using another 2 wired in series to power my fans.  I will be experimenting this weekend

 

My goal is to have all the batteries/electronics in the helmet and not have to worry about extra wires running in/out of it.

 

Batteries located here:

http://www.batteryspace.com/lithium18650-rechargeable-cell-3-6v-3350mah-12wh-button-top-pcb-protected-ncr18650b---un38-3-passed.aspx

Charger located here:

http://www.batteryspace.com/nitecore-d4-digicharger-4-bay-universal-battery-charger-for-li-ion-imr-lifepo4-and-ni-mh-ni-cd-batteries---ce-listed.aspx

Electronics yes my fav :popcorn:

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Played with some fan setups today.  

 

First demo was all on the breadboard.  Two 3.6V batteries wired in series connected to two 5V fans wired in series.  This allows each fan to run on 3.6V well under what they are rated for.

 

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Close up of the wiring.  Red wires are positive from the battery and black is negative.  For the fans to be wired in series (each taking 3.6V) the negative from the first fan is wired to the positive of the second fan.

 

 

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Next I wired in a potentiometer to give me some control over the fan.  Rather than just on and off I can have a low speed and high speed with a turn off a dial

 

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I also hooked up 3 batteries together in series and was able to power my ROM/FX easily.

 

I'll be ordering two more batteries so I can run the fans and the ROM/FX and mounting it all I the bucket, as I find space for it.

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Fans are wired up.  

 

I took some scrap ABS and created a mount for the potentiometer and picked up a power switch for my setup as well.

 

Simply heated the ends and bent the ABS into the shape I wanted and drilled holes for the switches.  After soldering all the wires I added some electrical tape to hold it all together and keep it looking clean. 

 

I used a 9volt battery connector to enable removal of the battery pack  out of the bucket.  Only reason I used this connection is I had it readily available at home.

 

Tomorrow I'll get this mounted in the bucket.

 

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Mounted in the bucket using velcro for everything.

 

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Now to see if I can get another battery pack and the ROM/FX in there with my head.  If not battery packs will be moved down to the chest with the ROM/FX as well.

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After hot water bath I had much better luck shaping my shins this time.

 

Almost no gap and using the elastic calf closures that Ukswrath sells.

 

Now some people will ask why the elastic and why not go the easy way.  I wanted to mimic the screen used suits as close as possible.  The elastic also has some give to it. So while walking during test fits this moves with the leg as it expands.  Velcro acts differently as it will hold and prevent no gap but will not stretch, it's either holding or it's not. But is very easy to assemble.

 

Both options have pros and cons I just wanted to touch base on them.

 

Below are the new rear of my shins

 

Right shin

HqnaoVJvSVtG7gDYQ_ZF84HLHj4I446faI21oioX

 

Left shin UkWZLmZuy3153aYYrT53au0PTbLjWvqCqE3vF2Ws

Edited by StrmTRPR85
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11 hours ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

After hot water bath I had much better luck shaping my shins this time.

 

Almost no gap and using the elastic calf closures that Ukswrath sells.

 

Now some people will ask why the elastic and why not go the easy way.  I wanted to mimic the screen used suits as close as possible.  The elastic also has some give to it. So while walking during test fits this moves with the leg as it expands.  Velcro acts differently as it will hold and prevent no gap but will not stretch, it's either holding or it's not. But is very easy to assemble.

 

Both options have pros and cons I just wanted to touch base on them.

 

Below are the new rear of my shins

 

Right shin

 

 

Left shin 

Nice Job!!

Edited by LTM
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10 hours ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

After hot water bath I had much better luck shaping my shins this time.

 

Almost no gap and using the elastic calf closures that Ukswrath sells.

 

Now some people will ask why the elastic and why not go the easy way.  I wanted to mimic the screen used suits as close as possible.  The elastic also has some give to it. So while walking during test fits this moves with the leg as it expands.  Velcro acts differently as it will hold and prevent no gap but will not stretch, it's either holding or it's not. But is very easy to assemble.

 

Both options have pros and cons I just wanted to touch base on them.

 

Below are the new rear of my shins

 

Right shin

 

 

Left shin 

Excellent job! :jc_doublethumbup:

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I finally am at that point in my build where I decided to just submit for basic approval.  In my mind there are little things to do and touch up but maybe I am just overthinking it.  So I pulled the trigger and sent in my pics.:D

 

IytvjJTW1AtzGRuKY2Cwo3fzNj0pcT4bK4SaOJzHiB_gOMYAUukf7MG1JUNOmVrs_WcCYJ4LdpJ0KvI66iYZD9JXCDbmRCydhN7Ym3Yj5Jgilmdhw-xqHsaqT0JleVNaYtFABuogljy8nHk5-unh4PP3d_VAWIA7ASl-NzhnaJ-FgQF3QDmQouTP0vM2yjX6sX0NgU1Zo9UWl8YH1Wkro9cSHS10FIVmPuCOfLPfgBFxEDcPyUHJtgQGgTyBPFlxsNa6eX4-9Any6AmVzBRePKoUoMciyEHaj7KFYNAlkUVia7CbM0WIJfHmpZiwsctk

 

Time to see what happens :popcorn:

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