wook1138

The fun begins! Good luck.

Hi Brendan. Looking really good so far. As for the helmet opening - yeah, you could trim some off the bottom so your head fits in a bit better. Trimming the ears is a process - take little bits at a time - fitting and fine tuning as you go. By default, the dimples in the AP mold for the ear screws are pretty good but the alignment can be a little off from what Joseph mentioned above (the ears end up being very slightly too vertical compared to the edge of the trapezoid). You may need to locate the bottom screw a little further back than what the dimples suggest. That said, the difference is minimal. You could also adjust your frown to include the "phantom" tooth (see below). The depression that is not actually cut out but treated like a space. As for your mesh, it doesn't really matter - it is more for people not being able to see your face when they are close to you. Keep in mind that this is about the only air intake you have on your mask so you don't want to restrict air flow too much. Keep up the great work. Centurion in the making!

The only white elastic will be your 2” shoulder straps (chest to back connection). The rest of the arm straps are black to match the undersuit. I think the original straps got painted white on the inside but I can’t say why. Nice progress!

The split rivets are about 8mm if I remember correctly - that is a diameter measurement. Those are visible along the left ab to kidney connection (and the ammo pack that goes around your right knee - if you do use them for that).

The 5/16" is the post size. Sounds like you have the right snaps. No problems.

Technically, you can sit in armor. Might depend on the fit of the armor, but it is possible. I find getting seated and getting back up is the hard part. Also, I need to stick my legs out in front of me to make it work because I can't bend at the knees that much. I've never tried sitting in a vehicle- I don't think I could do it unless it was a very roomy vehicle.

I used line 24 snaps in my TK build and the original bracket system in my TD build - both were AP kits. The snaps are the most common method, IMO. Using snaps with either nylon or elastic (you might want elastic in some areas for mobility) gives you a lot of options for adjustments. It is a bit more work than the bracket system, but more durable and, quite frankly, more practical for maintaining. There are some tutorials in the How To section for setting snaps. I also showed my process in my builds.

I’ve used lepage’s stuff from Canadian Tire. Works just as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By the way - awesome progress so far! Looks great!

I used loctite plastic bonding system. Worked like a charm. Other companies make the same product - I've used a couple different ones.

Nice work! Good luck on your approval!

Happy BBB day! That's a great kit. Good luck on your build!

Welcome back! "Slight" medical condition? Definitely a trooper! Good luck with the rest of your build.

Good luck on your build, Gordon. Read a few builds and check out the applications for EIB and Centurion. Building to the higher levels right from the get-go is not that much extra work and definitely worth it. We are also here to help... and not only to judge.

Congrats!! Nice work trooper!

Oh, no worries, Daniel! And you are right, unacceptable for a build. I'm not even sure I can make ABS paste from this stuff - I guess I should try that tonight (I'm gonna need it on this build for some of the mods I want to do). I've sent a message to the vendor - I'll see how they decide to proceed.

I'm wondering the same thing. I'll contact the vendor and see what they have to say for themselves.

I know black ABS is not really our thing here, but I am currently working on a project and have a question for anyone who has worked with black ABS. I am trimming a kit and have noticed that the ABS seems to have some sort of coating. The problem is that this coating is tearing away from the plastic in places. Especially when I score and snap. So when I score and snap I pretty much have to score both sides or this coating will tear. When the coating is removed the plastic looks gray and not black. Is this normal? Where the coating tore along a score and snap edge. Bending the plastic caused discolouration. You can see the coating sticking up in the air. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Jim, Looks great. The Dans already mentioned the main items. There is not much else to pick on. Looks like your forearms could come up a bit - you have more black area at your elbow and very little at your wrist. Also, you have a lot of return edge on the sides of your chest (next to your arms). It is noticeable on the front shots as well. I don't think this would hinder acceptace at any level, but it is more of a what-looks-best kind of thing.

I wouldn't angle it - it would look funny. Padding does a great job of keeping things fitting nice. All depends on how much room you have - I had the opposite issue - large at the wrist and tight at the elbow. I was able to get away with reshaping the elbow end a bit with a hot water bath. Are you planning to use inner coverstrips on your arms? This helps strengthen areas where the seams are not butted up against each other. The build is looking great.

RebelScum.com - Some of the collections on this site bring tears to my eyes. For example: https://forum.rebelscum.com/showthread.php?t=1131767

Congrats Eric! Fantastic build and well deserved. I had to tame that return edge as well. I gave it a hot water bath.

That's crappy news about the armor delay. Hang in there, it is worth the wait. As for the microphone, if you don't have a wired, unidirectional back-up then I would recommend getting one. I have intermittent issues with my wireless mics (I use both icomm and troopertalk - but tend to prefer the icomm just because it is so easy to use). To be honest, I've entirely given up on the wireless mics. Here's hoping for an end to the postal strike and the start of vacuum forming.

Let us know how it goes @Frank75139