wook1138

Yes. As someone who is currently mulling a shot at a SWAT application, I can say that MEPD has pretty much moved their SWAT requirements for specific sandtroopers into the realm of "prop replication" (not quite, but close). Not only that, but the required accuracy increases after each approval- so the requirements can seem somewhat arbitrary or subjective at times. And in my case - I needed extra gear for basic and PO (EI equivalent) that I will not need for SWAT - it just isn't very logical. Anyway, I feel the approach at MEPD actually discourages people from trying to apply for SWAT or upper level approval in general. I don't want to see that happen here. The super-OCD, detail freaks (and I'm a little guilty of that) can always build our pet projects and post pictures and feel superior - we shouldn't need special 501st/FISD recognition for it. What a person learns in the process is reward enough.

Daniel has already given you some good pointers, so try moving the bells forward a bit and, if you can, size down your biceps. I've worked with both trimmed and untrimmed shoulder bells from AP - Mark trims them pretty close to the trim line - I don't think you could trim them any larger if you ordered untrimmed bells. I don't think Mark @ABS80 sells larger bells, but you could always ask. There are other kits that sell oversized bells - but then you are dealing with the possibility of the plastic not matching. That said, I seem to remember someone with AP (?) armour getting shoulder bells from someone else and finishing their build with no obvious issues - I would have to look around at a few builds to see if I can find it. Personally, I think you have done a really good job of getting those bells to fit as close as you can - just moving them forward will help a lot. I wouldn't be concerned about finding new bells yet by any means.

Those are Canadian millimeters. Slightly different.

You bet. That is exactly what I did - 16 to 17mm.

For the s-trim, a trick is to trim it so it seems like it is about 1 inch too long - then try to jam that extra onto the helmet - the pressure holds it in place. Otherwise, yeah, use E6000. My TK has no glue and it has never come loose. I cut my Sandtrooper trim a little too short and it has popped off a time or two while getting by bucket off my big head.

I've done both in the past - I recommend trimming it. I noticed that the upper part of your forearm looks tight in the one picture. Can you fit a finger in between your arm and armour?

Looking good. Yeah, the brow does appear to be a bit low - sounds like the new ideal is about 5mm above the eyes for a stunt. You might be asked to move the tube stripes up a little. Not for basic approval, but just for screen accuracy - there is at least one DO ( @CableGuy ) who is a stickler for tube stripes, so you might get the comment.

HAHAHA. Yep, my sentiment exactly. It was one of those "surprise, no one warned me about this one!" treats. It gets easier with practice - may I suggest a few drops of E6000?

If you are running a little tight on space for forearms I would recommend trimming all return edge first. That will buy you some room. 25mm is too much for a coverstrip - and ideally, the coverstrip should cover all of the underlying ridge (ideally). You could go as much as 20mm (?) if you really needed to - but keep in mind your bicep will have to be as wide and your legs will have to be wider than 20mm so everything looks proportional. You can make the back coverstrips (arms) a little wider than the front if you need to - a few mm will not be noticed from front to back. Yes, be sure to leave enough room to get your hand through. You should have enough coverstrip material to do inside coverstrips - but leave it to the end, just in case. I used inner coverstrips on the thighs right off the bat (they are a bit tricky compared to the arms). So, for my arms the inner coverstrip went on later - for my legs the inner coverstrip went on first. did I miss anything? Keep up the stellar work!

I use tapatalk for posting pictures - works pretty well. I do everything else on the desktop because I am old school and have trouble working my phone.

There are a few videos out there that show people getting dressed. Worth a watch - gives some good insight into a few things.

I think making people work for Centurion is a good thing - as so long as the requirements are easily backed up by reference images. Many times the angle of the picture / lens / whatever can make things look very different. I think basic and EIB are good as is for the most part (I always thought s-trim and rubber hand guards should be EIB, but that is me). Anyway, not my point here - what I like is the idea of listing more items as "ideal". I think more things like this should be part of the CRL. For example - the ear screws may not need to line up with the trap, but ideally they should. This gives the builder a good guide of what to strive for - not getting it absolutely perfect will not affect their Centurion approval - but it is the ideal goal. The more of this guidance right in the CRL, the better, IMO. We are, after all, judging someone's work based on a few digital pictures - we can't always be sure down to the mm. Well, unless your name is Dan. I'm on board with the tube stripe direction requirement. Another thing to keep in mind - people will get discouraged if Centurion is a moving target. I've seen a bit of this in other detachments. Centurion requirements need to be well defined (which they are, until people start piping up about what is "ideal" and confuses applicants), but also somewhat static and predictable. I'm not saying that changes can't be made, I just think changes should happen on a regular schedule - like once a year at a certain date. Proposed changes should be in the CRL as "ideal" or "proposed" standards for a few months. This is so someone starting a build will know what is expected from them in 2 or 3 months time when they are actually finished and applying for upper level approval. My two cents.

Yeah. Here is a pic of the profile from the RS suit. If you click the pic and follow the link, you will end up at the RS gallery - there are a bunch of reference shots of screen used armour.

I have a vice in the garage - so I just stuck an end in there and give it a quick bend. I'm not creative enough to think of another way to do it. As for the Velcro - you will want your TD to move with your belt, so I'd be hesitant to add hook Velcro to the armour - plus it would make it really hard to get it on while dressing. I've never had an issue with the TD working its way off the belt.

You are very welcome, Brendan. Oh, one more thing. For the back part of your aluminum clips, you will want to round the corners a little bit and give them a little bend (see below). This makes it easier to get it on your belt.

Nope. Just painted black. Brass is all I could find at Canadian Tire.

This is what I found at Canadian Tire: The #6-32 brass slotted pan head (on the right). I grabbed the 3/8” long one but 1/2” is what Mark had used. This bolt has the same thread as Marks so you can use the same nut.

Those are the wrong screws in the kit. Canadian Tire does have the right ones - they are brass pan head machine screws - hard to find. Don't sell the screws you ordered just yet.

yeah, to be fair I didn't see these pics until well after I was done my TD build (well, the helmet anyways). I watched a bit of the videos - I did see one of these videos awhile ago - just forgot about it.

What?! You questioned it?

Yes! Saw some pics a little while ago.

Saw it. All over that.

Hummmm. I've been hearing good things about DA props. I've been following them on Facebook, but I've been too busy the last month or so to really pay attention to what they are doing.

Don’t think they’re doing a run at the moment. I’m keeping an eye out for the next time they do. I’ve already sprayed (well, re-sprayed) a lid in my renovation project. It would be great to do that on a more accurate lid and to weather it like the screen used lids. :-) I think I'd be down to take another crack at the "stop that ship" helmet with a HDPE lid - I want to finish it so it matches the recent auction photos.

FISD: come for the detailed analysis and critiques of TK armour... stay for Matt's and Frank's banter.