Harbinger

I think there is more to it than just upping base requirements, though. For one, getting people over to the detachment and getting them informed. I can only speak for myself and my Garrison mates, but when I first decided to build a TK, I was lucky enough to have found FISD and realized that if you're starting a BBB it's minimal effort over basic approval (and just a couple hundred dollars more in parts) to go for Centurion from the start. My friend who joined at the same time didn't join FISD, build to the base CRL, and later, when I became an attache I tried to get him to go EI. He didn't. Why? Because he ignored L2 and L3 when building (because he didn't care at the time) and now if he wants to get his EIB badge (we aren't even talking Centurion) he'd have to rebuy quite a bit of his kit. As for base requirements, maybe it is finally time to move many of the ANH/RoTJ split EI requirements (such as cover strips and rivets vs none) to base requirements?

I think SWAT (and Lancer) have moved closer to prop replication than Centurion has. I don't think any of these programs should go to full prop forgery, but it does IMO show that Centurion could be made 'harder'.

Vikings are Swedish now?

We already have levels, though. EIB and Centurion are optional programs. Nobody here at FISD is knocking on basic Legion standards, and if people choose to stop there they are more than welcome to. Trooping is what really matters, after all. EI is meant as a upgrade over basic Legion approval, but still leaves a lot of leeway. Centurion was added later for those who wanted something closer to screen accurate and as such, I personally see no problem with added most of these suggestions.

Almost all of these are already being asked of applicants so I don't see why we can't start adding them - officially - to the CRLs (for Centurion I assume?).

I would just say L1: There should be a visible gap between the brow trim and eyes. L2: A gap of approximately 5mm must be present between the brow trim and eyes. No L3 needed as the requirements are cumulative.

I agree with TheSwede, this should be for EI OR centurion and not effect basic clearance.

Thank you for the heads up - MOT has been known to recast others and steal their work, on top of that the quality of his pulls and plastic are both quite bad. PSA folks, this is why you avoid eBay armor!

That wouldn’t meet 501st standards without a significant amount of work (helmet is wrong, armor looks to have incorrect/missing details etc.) - I would stick to vetted sellers, it is wise to avoid etsy/eBay as most of it is crap honestly.

Nice find! Looking forward to this build.

Yeah. I’m hoping we get an email update soon.

This is amazing. Happy holidays fellow troopers!

I believe Troopermaster has taller shins available if you wanted to go with him.

I used Rustoleum Leak Seal for my helmet and it turned out great, and I believe they are very similar.

I would start with isopropyl alcohol, many paint thinners contain acetone which will dissolve ABS.

I have made a few for members on here, in my free time. Feel free to PM me.

Congratulations.

He’s fine as long as he does do a full ‘dress rehearsal’ before doing any cutting by that I mean undersuit, gloves, boots, etc.

Congrats!

I'm hoping we will get an update from them before Christmas but they seem to be very quiet over there lately.

Great work, yours does indeed look better than the RS one. Maybe that mold has seen better days but yours is much sharper.

My Anovos helmet came with a hardhat liner and I did not like it one bit. I used some tactical helmet pads I bought from Amazon ( just do a search, tons of sellers, they all run around $15/20): The pads are already backed with loop velcro. They also came with some round velcro pads to attach them to the helmet, but they fell out after one troop so I replaced them with the industrial-strength stuff.

I used a dab of E6000 on the ends and it has never come loose so far.

Welcome to the Legion.

You can do whatever you want for strapping, since approvals only concern the outer appearance of the armor. That said, Velcro isn't ideal as unless you get the industrial strength it tends to seperate from the armor, as well as making it harder to dial in your fitment every time you kit up. With snaps you figure it all out once, and unless you gain/lose weight you're good to go every single time. Rivets are only required for the higher approval levels and even then do not have to be functional.