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jimmiroquai

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About jimmiroquai

  • Rank
    Captain

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    Male

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Standard Info

  • Name
    jim
  • 501st ID
    82480
  • 501st Unit
    Philippine Garrison

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  1. Hi Jim, I'm new to this forum and was just wondering how much you sell your R1TK kit for? And do you send to Australia? 

  2. Recaster Alert: Ebay seller Makerofthings! has recast my Rogue One TK armor Mostly are direct vacuformed pulls from my kit. Some were pulled from modified versions of my parts My master sculpts are hand sculpted, not 3d printed, so the human made imperfections have been perfectly replicated in the vacuformed pulls as well. Photos with comments below. Flexible fiberglass off-white parts are my kit. White vacuformed parts are his Thing about recasters is this: for every kit they sell, they steal work from the people who's livelihood i support by selling my kits. The sculptors and casters I work with, this is their livelihood. They are actually very poor and each order can mean anything from food on the table to paying tuition fees for their kids.
  3. Only parts that are black on the armor are the shoulders and yoke. BTW, finished this recently:
  4. I'll just let the pics do the talking (sorry, late night and i'm exhausted after finishing only step 16 of 600 of the Lego Ghostbusters Firehouse for my kids)
  5. I do have hi res photos. Let me edit the backgorunds out.
  6. The blue paint just got on the side walls of the vent. A better way would be to cut the vents out and place a blue strip of plastic underneath. However, with this being cast, the depth of the vents might not be as consistent as leaving them in.
  7. I noticed that most of the time the back bvelt overlaps the front but on some examples the front overlaps the back
  8. 11) Abdomen + kidney armor - See Shoretrooper ab armor for basic description - no "kitkat bars" above the central panel - Buttons have raised outlines and recessed centers - diagonal raised area adjacent to a recessed black area - closed in the back by a rectangular plate 12) see above 13) Posterior armor - Same as ANH (YEY! the only piece that can be used from OT sets) 14) Belt - Rigid front belt, roughly 3.5" wide with notches which key into ridges on abdominal plate - 2 thin boxes (roughly 2x3x8cm) , 2 medium boxes (roughly 2x4x8cm) with a raised ridge on top, 2 wide (roughly 2x7x8cm) boxes, 2 hip plates (7x15cm) suspended with black elastic/webbing - Rigid rear belt, roughly 3.5" wide, overlaps with front belt 15) Thermal Detonator - roughly 3" in diameter, 8" long - grey base, white endcaps with recessed sections painted grey. - control panel is white with a elongated semi circular section painted grey - had a vertically oriented raised oval detail similar to but smaller in scale to a Deathtrooper chin greeblie - attached to rigid rear belt 16) Cod armor - higher cut than OT armor 17) Thigh armor - Front cover strip is chamfered with a recessed outline - top of thighs are rounded - Back cover strip is also chamfered, can overlap - Right thigh ammo strip 18) Shin armor - Front and back cover strips are chamfered with a recessed outline - overlap at the back - Front cover strip terminates before top of knee horizontal section - Knee plate is glued to left knee 19) Boots - FOTK boots - flat sole - zipper on the inside
  9. Hi! I just finished my R1TK build and i thought i'd help out a bit with the CRL with some input not yet found in the draft: 1) Helmet - Helmet is symmetrical - Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth - Vocoder tubular in nature with a visible gap between the outermost section and the helmet 2) Neck seal -ANH or integrated with undersuit - if separate neckseal, skirt must be tucked underneath the ribbed undershirt 3) Undersuit - horizontal ribs made of non-shiny fabric at the chest, arms, knees ; approx 4-5mm - hexagonal mesh at the armpits - ribbed neck seal made of shiny material can be integrated - approx 6-8mm - hip section does not have ribs 4) Shoulder armor - Tops are rounded (vs all the others which come to a point) - See Shoretrooper CRL for basic shape 5) Shoulder straps - made up of wekk defined half cylinders - insert behind chest tabs and into slots of back plate 6) Biceps - see Shoretrooper CRL for basic shape 7) Forearms - see Shoretrooper CRL for basic shape (main difference with OT forearms is the straight profile of the ladder and the chamfered cover strips 8) Gloves/ Handplates - Raised are is RO style (larger than OT) - Gloves are similar to FOTK but in black 9) Chest armor - raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert - pectoral outer "webs"/lines are more horizontally oriented than OT - top pectoral out lines swoop outward - bottom of ribcage flares outward - Chest and back are connected by black extensions pieces 10) Back armor - cog has 16 spines - 11 has raised lines on one end - Back pack has a trapzoidal indentation at the top - Shoulder straps insert into raised trapezoidal sections - There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backpack - Bottom of back plate is curved and extends past the kidney plate
  10. Done! If i were taller i would probably pull off a kneeling shot and be a lot more mobile. I can sit down though:
  11. Like i mentioned before, i was a bit hesitant about making a helmet for this because the black series bucket is cheap and can be fixed with some mods. That being said, i now agree that wow, that was a heck of a lot of mods to do and the casual armor builder would probably have a hard time making it look nice afterwards. After my personal bucket was modified, it was so heavy and it was difficult to get everything to blend together seamlessly. In the end, we had to make a waste mold of the modifed bucket, cast in it plaster, and clean it and mod it some more. So here's the bucket, which was based on a BS, heavily modified. (To be honest, i'm still hesitant about releasing this because we usually sculpt stuff completely from scratch). Changes include the ff: 1) Larger and lower brow 2) Closed seams while leaving them a bit well defined 3) Cleaned up and sharpened vents, traps, tears, etc 4) Slightly smaller mouth 5) Made the seams of the chin section more prominent and well defined 6) Got rid of the batt compartment and speaker seams 7) Extended the chin bulbs inward 8) got rid of the battery compartment protruding into the back of the helmet 9) made bottom trim continuous 10) sculpted a new, more tubular vocoder Here it is painted up: It actually came out a bit lighter than the BS. Pics in armor, hopefully tomorrow.
  12. Thanks! I'm a completist i guess, and since i had most of the parts already from the Shoretrooper, I didn't have to do stuff from scratch. Thanks, Tony! Yes, the thighs are actually cast much taller and wider. I had to trim about 2" off the top and cut it in the back to reduce girth. And yes, it looks like i over trimmed a bit. Haha. Here's a pic after trimming the length but before reducing the girth.
  13. Hmmm. That's interesting. I guess just a clear coat would work, especially if you're going for a weathered version. This material yellows over time though so best option might still be primer, paint, and a clear coat Here's the unpainted kit all rigged up! Some notes: I'm 5'9 and a bit on the wider spectrum in the pics. So for taller folks, there will be more of the abs backplate cod and butt exposed. Lots of built in allowance for height and girth all over too. Back plate and TD is on a bit crooked (dressed myself) I can probably lower the cod and butt a bit more. Movement is awesome. If i were a bit taller i would be able to sit, kneel, get kicked around by Chirrut Imwe. Material is flexible fiberglass Not sure if you can see it in the pics but i'm also wearing the correct undersuit.
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