lucnak

I would also agree with dropping the forearms a bit to even out the black space and to ensure the gloves don't come out. Also not sure on how the back plate to kidney gap will be evaluated. One thing that may be recommended is that it looks like there's a bit of extra flashing still left in the eyes, but it's hard to tell from the angle in the photos. Everything else looks good to me, so good luck! Edit: Are the gloves rubber/rubber-like? Can't tell in the photos For level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

Congrats!

Congrats on your approval!

Just perused some approved Centurions and looks like you're fine to keep it. Would be my preference too.

Congrats!

Clamps at the ends will help keep pieces secure and then tape/magnets will do the rest! Hope that helps.

You can probably remove a little bit more from the bottom of the outside pieces of the biceps (the part that flares out).

Yeah, that should be enough E6000! Don't think you'll use all that. Nice to see you come back to your build! Don't be afraid to reach out to your local garrison. Someone might be able to help you in person!

Yes, for centurion, you will need to bring the tube stripes up. I recall the recommended distance from the cheek was a pencil's width.

Based on that front photo, it looks like the butt plate section is hanging lower than the cod. You can heat bend that end a bit and also tighten the strap to the cod. Should help a bit. It is possible that you may need to trim something to get these two areas to look right. Regaridng suiting up, don't forget your thermal detonator. I would attach the canvas belt a bit lower as well.

Looking good. I actually think that trimming yourself is good for two reasons - first, you get used to working with the ABS, and second, you can size to ideally fit your body. The bonus is you end up with a bunch of scrap for ABS paste if you need it! Oh, and you save money

I believe the 1506 is the most commonly used. I understand the 1505 is a bit too loud.

The ridge is really up to you...it would not hinder approval, but I would say if it's bothering you, fix it now before you go any further! Not that much work to undo and reglue.

Think everyone covered it all. Have a scheduled time, not a vague idea of what time you'll be out there. A scheduled activity with parameters to respect is good too. Kids have to understand that if they're misbehaving, the TK will go away! (That accidentally rhymed)

PM sent re: greeblie

Since the seam repair will be in a spot that is not covered by the strips, you should make ABS paste and use that.

You're good to cut at the red line. Here's some reference photos. You'll see that the original suit had the ab plate ending there.

Took this photo from TK-18004's Centurion application thread. You can see a clear photo of the thigh that has a cut out in the back. The ammo pack on the right thigh, at low resolution, may give the illusion of being part of the thigh.

I would personally thin the black lines as well, but I don't think this is outside of acceptable range. Thanks for the ref, Dan. I also found this one in the gallery. Looks like the lines are a bit thicker in some spots here.

Congrats on obtaining your EIB!

Yes, hand painting is best in my opinion. I think the thickness of the black is good, other than in the trap on the right side of the forehead where the paint bled.Goign back over the area with blakc will help get a nice clean look.

That cover strips would indeed be too wide. A shim is probably your best bet. Once that's in there, you will likely need to fill the seam that it creates before putting the cover strip on the back. You should not remove material above the ridge at the knees. Doing something similar to the shim should make this salvageable. You'd install a piece of backing ABS, then cut a piece the same shape as what you cut away and then fill that seam as well.

Yes, you can take a bit more off the sides there, but keep a little! Just sanding should be sufficient at this point to even them out a little.

That is super helpful and exactly what I was looking for! You're the best!

Hi Taylor, I may have missed it though I looked through the thread for it, how did you trim the belt boxes? KB's boxes insert into each other, so how did you decide how deep to make them? There's no visible mould line, unfortunately. Measurements of depth/photos would be suuuuper appreciated! Thanks.