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TKNick8350

Member
  • Content Count

    93
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About TKNick8350

  • Rank
    Sergeant
  • Birthday 02/08/1983

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    nickcole84@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    Nicholas Cole on facebook
  • Yahoo
    jeepster0204@yahoo.com
  • Skype
    No Skype for you!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fresno
  • Interests
    Stormtrooper Armor, 501st, R2 Builders(R4 unit) and plastic modeling

Standard Info

  • Name
    Nick
  • 501st Unit
    NA

Recent Profile Visitors

368 profile views
  1. The abs on the plastic is milky while the Rustoleum is bright white. I did my best to feather it. It’s looks odd. But looks great!
  2. Happy November everyone..I have finally completed my kidney plate on a positive note but, I believe this will sadly not be acceptable as an ESB Trooper. I ended up getting a filler used for abs bumpers to fill in the pitting and it did what the abs couldn’t do. I then wet sanded it down with a fine sand paper I gotten at Auto Zone. 320, 400 and 600 was used. I picked up a rattle can of Rustoleum 2x gloss white. Sprayed lightly and gotten this. As you can see, the raw plastic and painted section is off. But...if you end up weathering the part that was fix, it will not show up as much. Sadly this might be my last thread for the ESB trooper I wanted to build. I believe I’m better off as a TD. So it’s off for me to get the strapping done.
  3. I can attempt this with an airbrush. What paints did you use? I’m thinking RC paints would stick better and flexes with the clear car body while on the chassis. I can attempt this!
  4. Thanks for your response. I was thinking of at this point, using white milliput and filling those pockets, sanding it smooth, and hopefully if anyone has the custom match, send out a sample so I can get it matched at a Napa automotive paint store. And with my ocd, lol I might need to reinforce the inner armor with my obsessive sanding, that there is some light bleeding through the armor. I know that will be a easy fix since I can either T-shirt and super glue, or hobbytown sells fiberglass strips in the RC section and that’s simple to work with. I was going to build a centurion, but I can opt with EIB and later turn this to centurion down the road. Unless the “court” allows this. I don’t know how strict the Central California Garrison/ South Valley Squad is when it comes to this blemish on my armor. I just want to move on from this phase and get to strapping. Here’s the light bleeding through the armor, and that’s the shim poking through.
  5. @cheesewhoopy how was the progress on using the painters touch paint? I’m too having trouble with my kidney plate.
  6. So it has been 8/20 since my last post and yes, still fighting the kidney plate. I’m having issue with these small pits forming. I have filled them in at least more than four times and they are still there. Right side of Anovos Kidney Pits. Left side. More pits. I am at this point stuck. The paste is not working. I let the paste sit more than 48 hours, like a week or two so it can be cured as can be. Sand it down, and just to see more eyes sores on my progress on this build. What’s the alternative now?
  7. Working on the kidney. I also worked on removing the neck return edge and reshaping the back plate with all of everyone’s help! Thank you all! I posted this on the Anovos group page. Hoping to not get a snarky response which I do get from time to time. I have some pitting where both kidney and sheet meet. Should I continue to use abs paste or use bondo? I was thinking of using tamiya liquid surface primer as a filler. I have used this stuff with my model building and fills in gap really nicely, but I’m not sure how it will behave with movement. Or only it’s a filler, it’s white and if needed to paint, it won’t show as much as the bondo would with it’s brick like color.
  8. Test fit tonight, thanks to my love. We did our best to level the kidney the Ab plate tonight after dinner. (Above) As you can see on this picture the tape shifted. Left side ^ We measured about two inches on both sides. But I’m thinking I should have it to possibly 2 1/2 inches to 3. The tape shows it at 3, but it’s at 2. Below, the picture shows that I have gaps from my straps from Mr No Strips. Wondering what I can do with that issue, but no problem with the front straps. Also, my back plate is digging in to me. And my collar on my front chest plate is cracking, should some of these edges be taken off with the level 2 to 3 centurion? I want to be very comfortable on troops, as well as making it screen accurate. Stress cracks. “Nooooooooooooooooooooo”- Darth Vader
  9. something like that? For more flexibility?
  10. So I’m heading out to see The Lion King, this is what I have as of right now. The extended plate is at 3 1/2 inches for now because I want make proper measurements towards my final cut. The only part glued in is the shim. I used Trooperbays abs plates. I wished I was a little smarter keeping the scrap. But his abs is thick as you see in the picture. This is the material I will be using, plastic is easy to sculpt out. To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab?
  11. Is it necessary to add a return edge on to the extended kidney plate? Shimming and adding a 3 inches to my kidney plate.
  12. I went ahead and fix the shins. They look better since you pointed it out! Thanks !
  13. Here’s a good question, How much return edge is recommended on the shoulder bells?
  14. I just realized, shins seem to be off...maybe they aren’t mislabeled the whole time?
  15. Welp, gotta fix that one, no biggie. But I did see UKSWRATH reinforcement on those brackets, and going to wait after approval, and do the mods needed. Thanks for pointing that out!
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