TK bondservnt

I'd sure like to measure this with a micrometer.

thanks for showing this off lee... and it was nice talking to you on the phone. PM me for my new number if you'd like to chat more about blasters!

water and dawn dish soap is my way. after making 20 helmets decals are still never easy to apply.

just passing on general ideas from other threads would love to see doopy add a real rear bolt and handle to make this easy to do

for the scope just paint it flat black and hit it with sandpaper here and there be careful on your clear coat use matte clear! no shine!

real scope is going to take this build way up!

the charging handle can be sanded slightly, and usually is put inside the extention that people add to the model. if you put a screw on top of a piece of wooden dowel you should be able to mount your handle on top of a screw using the hole at the rear of the barrel to set it up, then it should slide down the channel to the front after you've made the handle slightly smaller. most people cut off the top of the screw and have a hole in the handle and just glue it down.

anyone who does a MKII helmet will hve to not cut out the frown! thanks paul... you're right as usual! see below

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SixthSense

the tops on troopermaster's screws are round, slotted. not flat countersunk.

the word adoreable is about being good looking, the word affordable, will depend upon paul making them for sale! if I had a son, I'd want to give it to him as a gift! great work!

I use round top slotted head 6/32" bolt and nut steel troopermaster uses round head slotted like this. flat head slotted would work for helmet ears.

the whole goal of pre assembled armor is correct and detailed measurements of your arms and legs. not to mention your head cheeks and neck. some people just have large heads!

best device ever!

ata also makes black armor.

e6000 allows for adjustments, cleanup and complete dis-assembly. CA glue welds the joins. and if you make a mess, or your parts don't align flush, you can't take it apart. who cares about dry time? the advantages outweigh the limitations. e6000 all the way.

should be pinned.

that sounds correct, yet usually makers who use hips use a thinner grade. when I compare hips ata to my ap abs, there is a ton of difference. I'd always suggest abs to anyone since it's easier to care for than hips. many people have to use fibreglass to make hips kits stronger... just ask a clone trooper! it's a combination of thickness of material, preparation and temperatures in forming plastics. hips is not a material I'd want in armor kits I'd have in the future, as I own an hips stormtrooper kit and I have had to make it stronger and thicker in certain areas on the inside. putting fibreglass fabric layers and exoxy is how most clone troopers make hips parts stronger for trooping. abs needs no such modifications.

these go together like a charm.

from the front of the folding stock to the end cap D ring 18 6/8" from the barrel tip to end cap d ring 18 1/2" 1 1/4" outer diameter

I like the duct tape hook for really keeping everything in place.

hips does not really give sharper detail, you can get good details on abs kits from makers who have sharp bucks. hips is just thinner so people are led to think it's sharper... hips is usually really really thin. abs does not mean that you will lose detail on any kits that are vetted on these forums!

I use power tools too... it's fun!

the han hooks mount in the center of your bicep muscle, over the "thumbprint" looks like you're putting them along the seam line? putting them on the sides of the bicep is not the correct location! you can see his hook location is directly above the thumbprint over the bicep muscle and are mounted from the inside.

smooth-on is a great learning tool. great video tutorials.