TK bondservnt

belt tan straps should only show 1" of tan at the bottom of the belt, and the rivets don't go in the middle they should be 1/4" from the bottom of the belt. you have it almost like a strange combination of ANH and ROTJ. shoulder straps should be tied with white elastic, and should align with the back plate better. oh and by the way, I'm sorry for posting the above so abruptly. RS props pvc suits look really good!

this is an interesting build but it has 2 mistakes first the charging handle MUST not be mounted on the outside of the tube over a screw the flanges on each edge "go inside" the channel. as you have it, it's sitting on top this is completely incorrect also you have it mounted 2" too far back. the real charging handle sits at the far end of the charging channel. this image shows the correct position of the charging handle second your bayonet lug was mounted too high on your rebuilt gun when they put it back together, you can see the misaligned holes in your re created tube which was incorrectly painted with the wrong paint. the actual bayonet lug sits in line with the notch, and the holes. it's obvious that your machinist misaligned his rebuild in this area. I was thinking this was a great set of diagrams, and I just had to point out these situations because the cocking handle and rear bolt situation is important to how any replica should be made. in many demil replicas they don't have real bolts, so this puts the charging handle in the wrong position, as well the recoil buffer and spring assembly are supposed to fit 1/2" inside the rear of the bolt, so if a solid tube of steel was inserted into the demil, the spring assembly will sit in the wrong positions. in a real sterling the recoil buffer, and 2 springs sit partially inside the rear of the bolt, and the spring is under compression, so it changes the shape of the spring. keep up the good work, and change that charging handle.

thanks nathan... you're the one who made my dream happen!

thanks thomas... I gave him that picture of the book pages, but he has the actual book. we already covered that. good job using my photo! Iike it!

the greeblie stunt or ie snowtrooper? with extended stock? so centurion is going to have 2 blasters and a pistol and a lightsabre? can I carry them all?

you have it on backwards in that photo. glad to see you noticed that.

doesn't the TKC thigh pack attach differently than a regular TK?

since I'm going for the highest level of TKC out of the box, I just had to purchase the MGC japan sterling copy.

having something strong, thin and accurate will be a very important factor in comfort on your work! looking forward to it!

some troopers have large necks. mine for example is 17 1/2"

no matter how you build it... have fun.

there has been some discussion about the materials gino is going to use for the production. fibreglass has been suggested, and abs has been considered. the delay seems to be production related. the Efx line would do a lot better with an ABS formed helmet... especially since it's cast from a real hero bucket, only problem is their art director usually does a lot of cleanup on their products, which some people don't like. it might take a lot longer before they get into production.

for the endcap, I'd glue it down with e-6000 just a little around the edge, this way you can eventually remove it. the inner barrel, make a pvc collet on both ends and it will keep the barrel centered. ( a collet is 2 rings of thin pvc that fit both barrels. ) for the hengstler bracket, using cardboard and making your own template is a great way to handle it! the H logo should sit directly across from the front foot of the scope.

wow glen, thanks! I'm chuffed!

billy's hengstler bracket usually puts the hengstler a little to far back and down too low. make sure that you modify it to fit the proper alignments. the front of the hengstler should be close to the magazine well, and the counter should sit with 1/2 of the scope showing on the horizontal axis. the front pins on the counter overlap the mag well just a tad.

testors matches best if you hand paint the traps, tears and other areas, the decal's won't cover them! the decals, especially in the tears don't fill up the entire space.

if you have a demilled gun usually they painted them again. after they assembled the cut up receiver. in the film we have examples of smooth and crinkle and original finishes I'd go with just a weathered coat of flat black. it also would look really nice with a milled false bolt.

well if I have the right team of people working on this, the replicas will speak for themselves. perhaps we shall be a team of little gods then?

many bothans paid the ultimate price for this information! ok man... dish the info! we're hungry for more information! (I'm such a plastic boy) er maybe a gun runner.

I"m all magnetic. wioo!

I love your work. and I'm sure that others will admire it as well. I have the MGC and I need the scope, rail hammers and door catch. the C tracks will be added after I get the aluminum parts from Michel can we work on all the elements for the ROTJ? looking at your work makes me feel like a little child a kid again. I'll be showing my resin replica's from steve aka tango tomorrow...

I'd want to keep the original metal scope for my metal ROTJ? I would mount it on my original MGC. I would never sell your metalwork apart from the original base gun. it's a team. and I would like to be a part of that team. no... I don't deserve to be a part of it, just because I own an MGC can you, mike. also make the sight rail and the door catch and hammers? at this point no person is making the Rotj except for the sci fire. it would be interesting to offer parts kits for people. that's my goal.

a doopy do rotj with metal and resin parts is my goal.

my goal is to make a ROTJ replica for myself. and a set of copy parts for other people. if we can find a balance then I'm interested. on the personal side... you know I'd nver recast I have the desire to cast and make replicas of the ROTJ. that I want to make replicas. your help would make my project much better. I do need help to make the ROTJ blaster metal parts a reality. it's not money. it's accuracy and I want to help other people. so it's a team effort. the goal is never money... it's the joy of knowing that you have the best replica you can ever have. I just want the rights to replicate the format for others. so what I'm saying is that if you make parts can we find a way to help others find the same thing? maybe we might have a run of your parts? or permission to make replicas of your work. that's my goal. I have the MGC and I have the goal to sculpt. but I figured that there's always that expert like you mike. I've been watching your RPF posts for a while now. my intention is to make rotj blaster kits a reality in the hobby. can I count on you to help us all to have the best possible base? I need a partner in this. resin parts I have.. but metal ones I want.

contact the uk garrison. otherwise the best option is to understand the helmet inside we will show photos.