TK bondservnt

that's only one hand in one photo. and it's not really a proof type of photo? is it a screenshot? or a prop replica? do I really have to show photos of han entering the door shooting to show a fully glued down handplate?

minimal weathering is the way to go... no visible wear, but a show of original colors and minor wear.. that's probably the best simulation of screen used. after all... they painted everything flat black and said :"action"

may I ask where this information can be shown? I see photos showing fronts glued down quite well... and some with them coming apart in different places? thanks in advance for any proof you can show for this concept?

I've had them split at the wrist and split at the knuckle "armor bites"

start with a cloth based armor, like a snowtrooper, or a tie pilot, then go TK when you're ready!

I don't believe it will pass centurion... we don't let that kind of situation exist. you'd best fill it in and start over my friend. sorry to say? we all have to make sure that we measure twice and cut once. it's just a part of the accuracy that we expect, especially at centurion level. I would also fill in the bubble on the lower left, and angle the corners of the part correctly, if you're going to bother with the details it's best to get them right.

nice one mark! maybe he should go RS props and get an even better one? ( just kidding mark ) you know they're both in a league of their own.

most people continue to grow into their 30's I would start with an ATA kit, and then as you get older, sell that off, and get a more expensive kit as time goes by.

your body size and rate of growth determines what type of armor to look into. there is a group for 18 and under. but you would need a guardian to help at events.

charity work. public appearances, being able to be on stage with famous people. meeting important people. having fun. sweating, armor bites, bruises that don't go away for 2 weeks... almost fainting due to heat... driving 500 miles for a free appearance that cost almost as much as the armor itself. going to san francisco 2 times, sacramento 3 times... walking several miles... spending years and thousands of dollars just to wear a plastic bucket on your head. the cost of armor is only a small fraction of the cost of wearing it out to events. hotel, food. gas. it's not a cheap thing to be a Star Wars Stormtrooper.

here's a tutorial for thighs http://www.whitearmo...h-cover-strips/ here's a tutorial for shins http://www.whitearmo...eaves_.2F_shins just glue the sniper and youre golden

to be accurate to anh you MUST do the butt join method. only ROTJ armor has the overlap, and for that you could just rivet the knee. please don't be fooled by the overlap method, it's only used for one film in the series, which AP armor is derived from. if you do the overlap method you'll be sorry when you want to go EIB or centurion. and if you don't care about those levels of costume, then you should just rivet the knee anyway. I used a lighter to melt my knee plate so that it fits. it's not pretty like a riveted knee plate. I wish we didn't have this requirement, if you look at the original armor, it's falling apart from the pressure needed to glue it down.

you have it assembled using the overlap method in your photos. the butt join and cover strip method changes the alignment considerably and to glue on a knee plate you need to use heat and melt it into place like the originals if you're going to glue it. always align shin and thigh parts on AP armor from the top down. the originals had some mis-aligned parts too... here's an original, and a few shots from the gallery

very nice! remember the counter reset button has a hole in it! and if you add the front pins to the counter it would really pop! (I have some real pins for a counter mod if you want to purchase them.) can you put your diagram, and counter digits and my measurements into this thread?

you want 1" wide by 1/16" aluminum flat bar, then bend to shape, everything else is too thin.

we're all in california... so it's easy.

those are green/black so nope! go for trooperbay! com

wow ! thanks everyone! top screws are 1/4" hillman screw posts from lowes in the specialty section

a holster is very important to the look of armor for me. the blaster and holster details are a sign of care and professionalism in a trooper.

always align parts starting from the top for legs, and the wrist area should be aligned for the forearms and the elbow area trimmed flush for biceps simply leave a return at the top/back of the elbow. and leave a small return across your bicep muscle area. for details on how parts should look take a look at the referance gallery for photos. this is right.

you can rotate the bicep to bell connection inside so that it keeps the bell rotated forwards. think of the bicep as a placeholder for your bells. if you rotate the strap on the inside it will keep the bells in position. if you have the strap centered, then there will be a gap, simply push the bells forward and attach the strap so that it keeps them pushed forwards.

there is a thread where the person uses a block of slim wood inside the channel that matches the OD

thin is in.

some have solved the look by putting a strip of wood as the rear bolt. this raises the profile to the correct distance.

you want to put a real bolt into a doopy? next to impossible.