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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About dm101

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    Expert Infantryman
  • Birthday 01/09/1967

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    York, PA


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  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Garrison Carida

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  1. Any news on this? Looking for a baton. Hope Peter delivers for those who have not gotten theirs
  2. I placed an order for one, fingers and toes crossed that the wait is a short one
  3. I used Loctite brand Super Glue Gel to put my Doopy's together. PROS- 1. It is not runny like water. 2. You have a few seconds to move your parts around before it sets. 3. A year plus later I have had zero parts fall off. 4. It does not take long to cure. CONS- 1. You can stick your fingers together just like Super Glue 2. A bit $$$$ 3. I am sure there are more...
  4. This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.
  5. As I always say "A picture is worth a thousand words"
  6. OK sorry for the long delay. This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.
  7. Don- Welcome to the FISD and to Carida and the 501st. Yep I am 40+.
  8. OK - so the three photos I picked of Han, Luke and Leia all use the M19 scope. I thought as much, but wanted to check. Dradts !!! . So back to my original question/statement. The doopy's comes with the M38 scope (see massive close up shot below). Would the M38 rear scope foot align with the folding stock hinge?
  9. Thanks OH so the scope that comes with a Doopy's is an M38
  10. OK you experts. I am attempting to come up with a scope mounting location for the Doopy’s resin kit. I figured my location by using the three photos of Han, Luke and Leia holding their blasters. I know how wide the rear sight is. I measure it at 1-1/32†wide. So it looks to me like the end of the scope is three rear sights up the gun (see the Leia image). I looked around the FISD forum and was only able to find a reference at this thread- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14817-advanced-anh-weaponry-e-11-blaster/
  11. MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT- MOUNTING FOLDING STOCK (optional) I was a bit paranoid at just gluing the folding stock to the main barrel. My resin stock was a bit warped and did not sit square, without some major torque/twisting. I decided to screw the folding stock to the main barrel. Step #1- Drill hole completely thru the folding stock. Hole diameter should be clearance hole for your screw threads to pass thru. Step #2- Drill another hole in first hole. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc… Step #3- (YOU WILL DO THIS STEP TWO TIMES, or ON BOTH SIDES) Drill pilot hole in the round part of the main barrel. (This is the pivot point for the folding stock) ((if your stock was able to fold)) Drill small hole for threads to pass thru in folding stock. Drill another hole on top of the first hole in folding stock. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc… Step #4- Align your folding stock holes to the pilot holes in main barrel. Insert your mounting screws. Step #5- I used JB Weld Steel - Stick Putty to fill in the holes. I also used this to build up the two pivot points or what I am calling buttons. Step #6- Sand, Paint and FINISH
  12. PLEASE add me to the wish list and make it fot TWO sets. Any guess at the ETA?
  13. YEP it is green. My photo shows the color pretty accurately. Don't forget- This is one bolt out of a thousands. I have also seen the color to be dark gray to a black color, and a brown color. Any of these color combos woul be good. I have not seen any bright chrome colored bolts. (chrome as in the color of a cars bumper circa 1970's model car)
  14. OK the object of this post is to clear up my earlier error. The goal is to have the Doopy’s bolt (or lack of) look more like a Sterling’s sub-machine gun bolt. Here is a image of my de-milled Sterling. MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT- BOLT -----UPDATED---- January 04, 2013 My bolt is made from: 1- A wood dowel (could also use a plastic tube or pipe- if you can find the right diameter) 2- A sheet of .25†thick clear plastic (you can also use colored plastic or wood) 3- A #6 wood screw Step #1- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE and drill a clearance hole for the wood screw to slip into. Sand CHARGING HANDLE flat on two sides. Finished thickness of flats to equal less than width of Doopy’s charging handle slide slot. Step #2- WOODEN BOLT- Measure the inside diameter of your gun at the butt end (with End Cap removed) I subtracted about 1/16†from that diameter to give some clearance. I used a belt sander to sand down the outside diameter of my wooden dowel. After a few test fits I made sure it would fit easily inside the gun. I measured up from one end 1.72†and drilled a hole for a #6 screw. The 1.72†is was measured off the de-milled Sterling bolt I have. The overall length of the wood bolt can be more or less than the 2.69†that I show. BOLT THICKNESS EXTENDER- I used a piece of clear .25†thick plastic. You could use wood etc… I made my part 2.00†long. I made the width a bit smaller than the bolt slide slot. I wanted the bolt thickness extender to fit in snug but not be to tight as to not move freely. Measure up 1.72†and drill clearance hole for #6 screw. Take modified charging handle, screw and bolt thickness extender. Test fit together. Mark bolt thickness extender at edge of charging handle. Sand or cut down thickness so that charging handle is flush with top surface of bolt thickness extender. #6 WOOD SCREW- Cut off screw head. I used a Dremil cut off bit. I ground in a slot for a straight screw driver. I use this slot to insert the screw. Step #3- Slide wooden bolt into gun. Step #4- Add bolt thickness extender, and apply glue between wooden bolt and bolt thickness extender. Insert #6 screw. Step #5- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE, apply glue, slip over #6 screw. MAKE SURE your charging handle orientation is correct. Step #6- Insert Spring, push bolt forward Step #7- Painting. I choose to paint the bolt the anodized green color from my original Sterling. IMAGE SHOWING de-milled Sterling
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