TK bondservnt

I was going to point that out but phil corrected the situation!

wasn't 6.5 inches between belt and top of holster? so you'd add some at the bottom 3/4" and you'd need at least 2" at the top to meet the mid point of 2/5 inches? add that all up and you get 9 1/4"- 10" with room to attach it? the standard strap for anh is 4 1/4- 4.5"" with a one inch gap? big difference? how could we accept less for EIB or centurion? is the issue scale since you're shorter? then it would be smaller as mathias suggests

thanks tim, with ian, you and I ... we can sure help out! make sure joe and ask your local garrison for troopers to come out and show you some kits, or attend a troop and check out some armor locally. most garrisons have an armorer, and they know ton's of the little things that you'll want to know! and they usually love to help others out. that's what the attache' program is all about! happy troopin!~

wow... looks good man! one of the hints I pass along is to rotate the thighs outwards so that when you bring them up, the top points pass the side of your hip. this allows them to be higher. then if you need to, you can taper them from the back, to remove the 'barrel' I'd rotate them out, then trim them once you've got the positions the way you want em! great job!

the armor can be trimmed with "return edges" where you'd have to use an iron, sandpaper and polish to create but this is not mandatory, you can simply work it all out and it can look good even if you just trim the parts smaller.

if you use white tape in smaller amounts it looks much better, and you can remove the mesh or lens to replace or clean with no problems at all. just carry a roll of white tape in your bag... easy.

there are 3 main areas you will make smaller shins= trimmed from the bottom 2-3" thighs- trimmed from the top 2=3" abdomen plate top- remove 1-2" chest plate- shorten bottom 1-2" this reduces the vertical distance on the armor 10" or 6" depending upon the distances in your body's vertical axis. some people carry the difference in the shin, some people carry the difference in their thighs and some in the chest. the base vertical distances of each part can be compared, and I could make suggestions on which parts to start with, and move from shin, to thigh, and then finally only cut the ab or chest if it's needed. you can also put the chest together higher by cutting out more neck opening and putting the shoulder bridges in a different location than usual. that's a great build thread there charles... ian did a great job!

the only photo I've seen is in the book showing weapons of star wars. there's also a person with the wires in the correct red and green colors... I'm digging up the photos. here's the first one with the proper location, path and original colors. http://www.whitearmo...ild-real-parts/ and finally the LFL photo showing the same configuration. there are shots of luke firing a blaster like this, but that will be tough to dig up! here's the original shot the proper attachment path: red wire attaches to hengstler inboard pin 4 coils around a pencil folds over the top of the inner cell but does not attach to the inner cell instead it attaches to the rear of the outer cell end of red wire at rear of outer cell green wire attaches to outer pin on counter 4 loops around a pencil folds over the top of the outer cell also attaches to the rear of the outside cell end of red wire does not attach anywhere but the outer cell rear. interesting that the path is different than 90% of all people's blasters it took me a long time to get this right and mr. sparkle is the first fan blaster I've seen with the correct wire path! chris reiff- aka mr. sparkle is a major player in the prop community and is a massive illustrator in the Star Wars universe. he's got every single detail on e-11's, R2 units, and even the falcon plans. such a monster! I also would like to be added to the list of buyers for a set of cells (request format for the sterling e-11) are you going to be making rows of these like on the mouse droid?

I use the above system but with the PTT option, and the non PTT version also works if you measure your sentance structure. with the push to talk, it's really nice to be able to make noise without it going out though the speakers. with the PTT system placed inside your glove with some insulation over the switch ( a small balloon ) I tape the PTT to my finger tip inside my glove. can be a little twitchy with just the vox setup. and volume setting is important for balance. works really really well! the wireless system is really bulky with the transmitter and receiver system components

at 220 your probably going to need shims at the waist.

dude... I'm not kidding... he disables the shopping cart during certain times in the year. and if a product is out of stock, then it's removed from being able to be loaded into the cart. I know, because I make holsters for trooperbay, and I'm a vendor of product for him. but if it's out of stock. then out it is?

that's exactly what I use.

during certain parts of the year trooperbay takes a vacation from orders. so the site stays up, but you can't purchase items.

buckethead chicken wing

sponge bob e-11? scrappy pattys... on a bun

soft and indestructable. foam blaster. yum

you drop it on concrete and it will crack. been there, done that. it's always fun when some old lady's purse strap get's caught on your hengstler as she's quickly walking past the line in a packed convention, the situation attempts to tear it off. (another reason why I make my bracket different than anyone else! it's in a folded U shape and is springy!) now my hengstler has a shock absorber built in!

the correct width of the strip is 1" by 1/16" thick aluminum flat bar. you should use 6/32" slotted bolts and nuts. the head of the bolt should be round, not flat or countersunk.

way to go dual film charles! glad to see another trooper going multi-film. dual centurion in your future?

AP armor is made in canada. pretty good abs stuff there@!

simply look at the eib threads they are sorted by maker

I think they look better fully attached. my 2 p

I would consider glue coming apart as a part of the original question under the heading of "bad experience" not much of a derail on the topic IMHO. I personally consider handplates coming off the gloves to be a "costume flub" not somthing we'd want to replicate in a 501st situation. much like chipping paint, which I also don't consider a costume feature that I'd personally want on my costume, I guess it's much like having makeup smeared on your chestplate, it's a judgement call really.

so from one photo, you assume that every single handplate is done only that way? do you intend to have the CRL modified to mandate that the front not be glued down? we don't replicate costume flubs,,, it's clear that handplates are wonky all across the film. you've seen the han solo photo a million times, and the front is completely glued down on handplate type 2

use photobucket, and link from there... don't have to upload to this site.