TK bondservnt

real scope... real counter... ok... show us!

oh... a real scope and counter... gmmm yeah baby!

you guys are starting a boarding party all right! taking names and filling mission profiles..

I want that robot!

gotta watch out for them clampers... they move in... an they won't move out. and they don got no money?

I love you mike. make my metal parts please? you are famous from the RPF. please help me! is it ok to call you mike? you are an awesome metalworker and a star in the hobby. you are my only hope! let's make this happen? and to note I will be making replicas for sale. resin versions.. so add that to the price! you know... honor above.

among the best in the 501!~

nice job! all I can see is the belt needs trimmed on top and bottom.

I have a casting from a real sterling and it's filled with bumps. my original sterling parts have a texture that's not crinkle paint because they are not 70's commercial sterling they are older. have texture applied during a chemical bath then are painted and then were painted again. then shot on screen. no original prop is a shiny smooth paint. only the promo photos use crinkle, and I've never seen a crinkle paint in any screenshot. most closeups use the older real sterlings

lots of people with large hands need clamshell forearms just like a shin part.

here's another photo showing the inside of the scope!

yes, that and the cocking handle.

oh and those plans I made are for the doopy do's kit. that's all they are intended for. this is a great build so far!

link missing!

there have been some even better hasbro builds out there! ones that are not even really a hasbro anymore! look over the old threads.

this is a very important point!

Forearms For 501st approval: Forearms are fully closed. For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. in the base acceptance the language has always been applied to only require no "GAPS" in the closeure of the forearms. it does not say "fully glued" the word closed is used because some troopers cannot fit their hands into glued forearms. and they require clamshell forearms. my 2 cents. in the blaster photo the offset on the front of the blaster is backwards. and morten points out correctly that the cocking handle is also backwards. I think his legs look fine! I see no gap? where does morten see gaps?

look to me that the wires embed. and cut into the T Tracks. funny how the color of the tracks reminds me of the sabrefreak tracks. a slight red color. photo shows the wires cutting into the tracks

have some tea and wake up... here's a muffin. bluebrerry. no worries. -----------

screen used photo? follow it. cmon karin.. dlt 19 wires on the T track this reminds me I need to add wires on my sci fire dlt 19 it's correct. there are wires on the T track on dlt 19's

the goal is the real thing. not an opinion. as we can see mark and I are barking up the same tree. he and I are both seeking the same answers to the same questions. this person is on the right track ------ http://www.therpf.co...-blaster-14571/ I want to know where he has the front area of the sight rail from, and where his scope came from. as you can see... he is farther along than anyone making a guess. looks right to me? so chris.. tell us the story? and then he posts this -------- and as if that was not enough ------- you're right mathias, the goal is not to waste effort! that's why I'm asking the experts to help lead in the search. the same with most threads of this type it is a team effort.

It was a real scope cut down. the mount is a scope mount. that's why it won't look like any you've seen! look at the post above yours. jimmy understands my point. does any part of this scope look right?

well I've been told it's a 4x20 but I don't know the brand. no, there are found parts, and I don't want to just make my own? it's not just a matter of faking it in this hobby. perhaps andy or marv can help there's always the wolfcub! and thanks mathias, but I need to know the real deal, so far the real deal consists of : 4x20 scope cut down and using it's plastic mount. some kind of front end applied, with some kind of greeblie stuck on the front. rail of unknown origin. door catch- unknown. hammers from some kind of gun? can anyone help with identifying the original parts used?

I figured he could cover the EU and I could cover NAmerica. it's my plan to create my own versions of metal and resin replicas. I want a lot of details you just can't get unless you have the real thing. it's not impossible to make working triggers and moving bolts, as an example. so does anyone have a line on the original ROTJ scope and rail? (ie. the original parts, and how to cut them down?)

well I have parts from steve, and he did a great job of sculpting them. since I have an MGC I was thinking it needs the real things on it! does anyone have a line on the brand of scope?