TK bondservnt

I use a wheeled golf bag. tall and slim and folds up into my helmet bag. when I troop my handler totes my gear and takes photos. he's the reason why I get such good photos!

troopergear is for large people usually 6' 200-200+ that sounds exactly like the old FX bucket. look for FX bucket tutorials. I believe that the old style FX helmet and armor is not EIB or Centurion approvable? the old FX style is quickly becoming a T rex around here... extinct! are you sure you needed armor that large?

doopy do is faster when ordering from ebay.

you can fit into any of the screen accurate armors, RS props AP ATA NE or AM armor would be much too large for youi.

personally I would like to see proof of this? the lineage was produced from a ROTJ tour suit that was recast and then modified to "look more ANH" most likely a suit made at elstree studios. then TE started making molds of this, and then made a set of molds that again brought back some ROTJ details. after this suit was created, it was considered the "best around" so then TE started selling molds, and claiming to "be out of the hobby" TE made extensive mods and started making changes to the shoulder bell swoop, the AB plate and the thighs. this produces the CAP and CAP-w recast mod sets. then we get AP purchasing molds and making suits. then ATA recast cap with permission. basically TE/ TE2 and cap are more directly related with ATA than AP. having AP, and ATA suits myself, and having examined TE and TE2 suits up close and personal I see no way that the suits were made "smaller" by recasting. this might sound good to some... but it just does not describe the actual turns of events. when I hold up ATA parts to AP parts they are not related at all, and are not recast from each other. it's the same with TE ilneage parts. MG did a lot of modifications to the base "tour" casting. the chest and AB are really telling when looking at the sculpts. the ATA chest does not match up with the AP chest... so it's not just recasting, it's more of a situation of recasting and then resculpting adding changes in all the lineage of armors made. The kidney plate and butt plates are also very interesting to compare. I have seen AP sculpted pulls right off the buck untrimmed and you can see the lower cutout on the bottom of the kidney plate, and then the vertical line on each side. when AP cuts off this extra 1" on each side you get a smaller armor. perhaps the reason why AP kits are smaller in the abdomen section might simply be AP cutting off the kidney plate at the vertical line on each side, which is supposed to be there along with the notch form that's clearly in the mold... just the producer cuts this off thinking it's "extra detail that needs to be removed" to get a vertical line. The AP abdomen could do with extra plastic on both the front and rear sections, this would make it more in line with the originals. there sure have been a lot of people making armor, and now with RS props out, we have a firestorm of recasting and producers who are making copies of the RS sculpt just from eyeballing the details. "oh thank heaven" for RS props, who brings back the original lineage to all of us. I personally after studying the armor lineage don't subscribe to the "made smaller by recasting" thought process. it's actually made smaller by the makers on purpose. AP has told me that the forearms on his suit needed a lot of work, and still they are not original from the tour suit. have fun and I sure wish someone would make up a formal family tree of the armor lineage! anyone up to that?

from the look of the original the front bottom of the bell has a slight return, the center has more return, and the rear has little to no return. the bell on the left is SDS- AA. I can tell by looking at the green dot. nice post from the LFL lawsuit archives. to get the crimp correct, you can do two things. heat the inside and crimp. then put the elastic on low and short to pull the bell around the bicep tight.

he has a real folding stock on his E-11 but the finish is too smooth compared to the real thing... my 2 cents!

I found that if you can put more padding at the top of your lid it can raise the neckline. you have to position it more downwards for eyesight but that's the only solution for those with not quite long neck.

my armor is AP and was from late 2008. the armor is scratched, dirty and even has cracks on the return edges of the chestplate, and upper ABdomen. return edges don't like stress along the horizontal axis. it caused the cracks at the returns from bending the part too far. eventually I'll polish up the armor, and fix the cracks. I just have 4 helmets, 3 blasters and about 15 holsters to make before I tend to my own kit!

no heat gun! since you're a TD just get some plastic for sale signs and paint em to match for shims. easy!@

congrats to both... great job mathias... you sure had a busy time!@ welcome phil... have fun!

It really depends upon how you clean and store your armor. you don't want any creams or polishes made for cars or elements that have caustics like ammonia or solvents. plastic is pourous and allows the entry of metals from polishes which then can penetrate and oxidise. always use novus 1 2 or 3 to clean and polish ABS plastics. PVC and HIPS are much different and still must use neutral kinds of polish and cleaners.

take the armor down to an auto parts store and then have them match the tone and see if their bumper paint man can shoot it for you. usually bumpers are made out of plastic these days.

troopermaster makes ANH faceplates with both the worn and sharp details. that's not an ROTJ face. it's the sharp and worn versions both contrasted.

there are several armor makers in the USA I think walt wants help from ATA MTK or TE2 (sure wish he would do another run!) there's also NE or tupperware TK If I were you walt I'd start with terrell (ATA) and he could also ask MTK (trooperbay)

no matter how padded the list of costumes... the bulk should always be TK's smaller events suffer in some cases... all my costume variants planned include the TK the TIe pilot and the officer are almost an easy given after the TK.

can't wait to see the helmet. are you doing a shield mold?

looks like you're on the right track on every level rob! love it@!

it's not just a rod. is has a special shape "hurry up goldenrod or you're gonna be a resident!" :: random joke anout 3p0 and solo.

weathering is a little too much. great job! Imperial weapons don't have much silver showing. I must say it does look great! grips need to be gloss and the counter screws on the top and bottom should be brass. the counter front should be brass and the counter front pins should be black. The clip end word off is too large and I don't see a clip lock? the ball in the magazine end is way too large. your wires are almost right! the counter wires are difficult to explain without photos. my laptop does not have the correct ref photos for wires. I'll do a workup on blaster wires! me...the critic. don't worry about it. rebels will run in fear! I do have clip ends and clip locks for the doopy do kit. cast from original

amazing progress! for safety sake couldn't the yoke be made out of formed abs and latex rubber for the actual neck ring part? how many different sized necks will this be able to fit?

best just to use a small pvc pipe inside the folding stock! well done mathias! you beat me to it!

the pipe diameter for a doopy do pipe build kit or a DVH kit is using the 1.5 OD pipe. The grey outdoor electrical conduit is what you should use. here are a couple of free tube plans. download them and print at 300 dpi borderless. NO MARGINS@ ---------- ----------

there is a huge section of build threads http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/84-rotj-build-threads/

what type of green paint did you use? I want to make this!