TK bondservnt

the latex method I use works without the heat. yet I'm sure this will work very very well, and cheaper than my suggestion. stramge? I don't see anyone else posting in here?

paint that has been sealed does last. this method works with any kind of flexible material. it's called impregnated pigment latex coating.

Very nice job! Couple of little things: no silver on the folding stock hinge. paint should be rough and bumpy, the real sterling has a very interesting texture. grips should be gloss black - since the originals were that way. hengstler counter brass details are really nice, but I'd tone em down just a tad (don't really need to, but it would be more SA) wires are not correct according to screen used. there should be 4 loops per wire, and be in series. I've had to describe this many many times with Chris Reiff being one of the best examples of SA wire. his are red and green too BTW power cell hex nuts seem a little large. I can't see the inner barrel in front but I suppose it's there! one of the best builds I've seen in a long long time! very nice work!

I would not be able to do a luke hero version, as paul mentions, and I'm working hard on my body to get back into shape. too much sitting in a chair and trimming armor! I do want a better Hero helmet, and now it's probably possibe to have the ABS EFX hero lid as a way of covering that element.

How to- Repair and repaint flexible Stormtrooper Handguards. Trooperbay uses rubber, and LATEX is rubber. so this will work first after bad paint cures sand the handplates with wet sanding starting at 1000g moving up to 2000g wash and let dry take a small plastic container and mix in a small amount of rubber it goes a long way so start small. about a 1/2 oz or about 1/16th of a 1/4 cup. mix in the red until you like the hue. take a sponge and dip it into the liquid mixture and smoothly apply the paint and latex mixture. using small amounts after you have done the top of each handplate then move on after the latex is fully cured. The sponge you use should be a makup application pad, they also have them on a sitck like a paintbrush. you want a tight sponge, not a loose one with lot's of grain. when the container you've mixed your paint in is dry then you know the plates are dry. you can leave them in the sun. it will speed up the cure. after several applications of this mixture on top sides and bottom of each handplate you can add a nice glossy shine to them by adding some Angelus gloss sealer. mold builder latex ----------

delete

well perhaps I am in a bit of a rush LOL

thanks paul.. you mentioned me 2 times. there are so many ways you can build upon the base kit. welcome to the 501 vince to vern... from brother to brother.

OH MY GOD

decal color on the helmet, much different than ANH not just a black frown. trooperbay has excellent ESB decals for ATA kits. I personally would get S neck trim, and keith's hovie tips. you'll probably also want an ESB blaster. you might want to consider replacing the CHEST and BACK upper body as well as swaping out the shoulder bells. NE or AM armor would work pretty well to do that.

I found this out when I started putting Star foam in my lids... gave me a eyeline downwards and allows me to turn my head better. short wide neck@!

I've always thought the RS was a combination of early elstree suits and the later AA produced parts. it stands to reason when RS is compared to AA helmets. that's the only explanation as to how this suit is so different in subtle ways.

the original post just had a link to the main site, not the actual trim location on the site. that was my point sir!

using the stock number I just purchased 6 feet now the website shows out of stock.

I don't use a phone or a tablet. useless. a mouse and a keyboard is accurate and multitask.

Great work! all you need now is to make the grip handle gloss. everything else is shaping up quite well. there are some suggestions I'd make, but I'll wait until you're complete to offer them up for consideration! some simple color correction on the bolt in paint scheme. the strip in the center of the bolt should be gunmetal silver and the bolt itself is more of a grey steel color, like a two tone set of colors. again the mods you've made really help to make it look more real. only a few paint details left for a perfect finish!

compare your width with troopermaster's template, that's where I get all my measures from. straps, shape of cut, all comes from paul's expertise. we've never seen a blaster photo inside a holster in the film so all we have are his talents and understanding. he has been looking at holsters and armor for over 10 years... so I trust his eye.

to make the m47a2 look correct you will have to use bondo to fill the ring LED area into the proper shape for an m38

can someone point out the correct trim from the great lakes boat website?

the holster is too wide.

the EFX worked for me in a hero configuration. you need to do a lot of work to make it approved the teeth need to be opened, the frown has to be filled the ears need to be trimmed down, and the bumps need to be modded. for the hero configuration you'd need bubble lenses new hovi mix tips a total repaint and new rubber trims! side by side with an AP helmet.

can you sell me some firehose for my TKC? PM inbound

NO

great builds and great comparison shots!

WD 40 is a solvent and inhaled over a long time can be dangerous. keep in mind you have plastic heat and sweat contributing to the situation. having a fan that emits onto the lenses is best. WD 40 is an oil based solvent which is why it works so well on mirrors. just imagine what it would look like trying to see though an oil sheen? wearing a baclava over your mouth also helps to reduce fog. helps to eliminate hair sweat.