TK bondservnt

2 sizes large and in charge and on patrol.

wow! the CRL text used to be in the base requirements! it was just pushed up to EIB and then they kept the variable text "but if you want to" I use a stone grinding tip on the dremel to finish up the holes! a slow speed drill is important Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. see how the text is talking about the CORRECT number of tracks? EIB approvals have been rejected for not having a cocking handle? but approved w/7 tracks? I personally feel the text is trying to educate and tells us to remove the 7th track the word IF can be substituted to use the word WHEN as in: WHEN using the... here's how I would edit the text" Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). The Hasbro E11 toy blaster shall have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. hope this helps?

that's because the CRL text was modified and was moved around a bit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23774-my-hasbrodoopy-e-11-conversion/

for EIB you must have the correct 6 tracks with the new row of holes created you should not have 7 tracks! Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

much better!

don't swim in your snowie! bwhahaaahhahaahaaa

the kid armor looks pretty cool... need to see more photos. the blaster is close, but wrong. I would not purchase it.

that boot is called the CA boot. it has been rejected by the legion for the level 2 and level 3 the TK boot eventually will find a supplier.

on the left ROTJ armor sculpted and formed at elstree studios. on the right. TE style armor sculpted to "look" anh. so if the armor on the right is AA then he recast and corrected ROTJ armor. when looking at these armors it's clear that none are ANH based again. it's RS props to the rescue!

he won the case, for the eu. he formed the armor from the film in his shop. made lot's of other helmet designs for the film also in his shop. then he had a fire, and now his armor is suddenly different. the helmets look somewhat accurate. it's a known fact that he did indeed make armor used in the film. what is troublesome is the alterations after the fact. LFL lost in their goal to shut down the production. comparisons were made from his armor to armor in the archives and it seems that details lost in his recovery from the fire. the details in the armor he now produces just don't match up to the original form he had. people dislike him because of all the bold claims he makes. which sometimes even shock me, (I'm trying to be fair and balanced, but he constantly says things that I know can't be right?) RS props is a better source to deal with in the EU.

simply remove the neck trim, cut a little off the front near the chin, about 1/2" then buy new neck trim and reinstall. works like a charm!

PM me some images, and I'll work up some layouts? [email protected] or here.

when you get your clip I'll teach you how to cut it correctly!

magazine: any patchet sterling magazine 32rnd will work. apex sells them. front bolts. just cut the heads off and glue them to the front. scope rail can be purchased from evilboy here on the forums. just give him the measurements you want. easy! to cut off the mounting for the scope, just use a dremel and a face shield. make score cuts and then use a small chisel and hammer. bend and score to remove the base. use pliars on screws when base is cut off. a metal drill and some ready mix bondo and a little paint! you're off to a great start! http://s196.photobucket.com/user/joker1231978/slideshow/Sterling%20E-11%20Blaster

FX armor recast in fibreglass. no good!

For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

may the force be with you sir.

my content function does not allow search or multiple pages? when i click on page 2 it says it does not exist?

cut one side open and use a finishing strip to make them smaller if you can? just put a strip on the inside, and the outside.

I covered that issue in a previous post. the clip end on his is incorrect, and the maker cut off the cliplock by cutting down the magazine the wrong way. it also looks like he's missing some of the magazine well parts. the ejector is missing, and the main front bolts are missing. those can be purchased from APEX gun parts. this: should look more like this:

after you remove the old scope and counter I'd sell them back to AJ! lol!

the end of the clip does not match the usual design. if you are interested in getting a set of counter and scope that's no problem. it's expensive, paypal even takes 10bucks at this level of pricing. was very hard to pay so much only to make 20.00 you might be able to get a proper magazine from apex gun parts. when he cut off the mag, he removed the clip lock. it's not supposed to be cut down that way.

www.uniquecanes.com

the counter is missing the front section the wire clips are not correct scope is also not seen on screen but is only a variant of the m19 the magazine is also strange?