TK bondservnt

+1 for glen's post. you want the snaps on the ab to line up with the box on the belt. the snap type is the smaller jeans type snap, not the full sized heavy duty snap. I use chicago screw post 1/4" for the holster attachment. they look just like large pop rivets.

+1

TRASH COMPACTOR NOW!

yep. 6 of those and 2 at 1/2" (chinstrap and lenses used here)

might be an RS props recast.

You made a blaster that looks 100% better than the Ebay horror you might have purchased@! I'm glad people are weathering the blaster so well. what you're looking for in a blaster paint job is when it's photographed, so you've done a fine job! I agree that the counter MIGHT need to be toned down. when you put on the matte, make sure you leave an even light coat. only add that final coat when the humidity and temps are right. you can spray outside then bring it inside to cure. The placement of the counter and sight rail is EXCELLENT! the counter position is SPOT ON! if every counter placement looked as good as that I'd be a much happier blaster nut! you should purchase my clip end and lock to add to this! those are the only parts you're missing!

6/32" x1" brass machine screws with #6 nut for the cheek screws it's 6/32" x 1/2" with #6 nut

I use Tin snips shaped like common scissors. allows for complete cuts in a fashion like most are used to cutting paper. for the areas that I can't cut with scissors I use a set of curved modeling scissors. finish off with some 60 grit sandpaper. if you have the proper measurements I can build it for you!~ sometimes the basic trim that mark does only fits smaller armed people. he cuts the forearms really close to the line where you might need 11" diameter forearms. I start by cutting the finishing strips for the arms 5/8" then cutting the leg strips at 1" sand and cut the finishing strip on the dull side- since strips have a shiny side and a dull side. trim the finishing strips for the biceps. and glue one side on first, then the other sides. think of each part as 1/2 of the other parts. line up the biceps from the bottom up line up the forearms from the wrist line up the shins from the top down. line up the thighs from the top down ask any questions with a photo. return edges on the parts can be shown in the photo gallery.

looks like I have to order more stuff mike! and waiting for it is like christmas in october!

I love my sci fire blasters

There's nothin as simple as a bic lighter. and you can even use it to shape armor.

I go with the lighter, and I put velcro on the end and use a hole punch, then I add the snap. The velcro attaches to the armor, and the snap holds it in place. This allows a single thickness and I always use Hook velcro on straps, and fuzzy velcro on the armor. it allows for the snap to be held in place by the velcro!!! no folding or sewing needed!

you don't need to remove all the glue and be a perfectionist. Just clean it up, and be happy with it. that's one of the main reasons why we use E-6000. it's strong flexible and removable. Novus polish and wetsanding goes a long long way.

if you've used E-6000 they can be taken apart and you can save all the parts.

I would have to agree with your garrison friend. The thighs are assembled with the inner parts placed too low. You should take them apart and move the inside portions up to be even with the top. sometimes people make the mistake of trying to line up the THIGH parts from the BOTTOM UP. if you cut off the top of the thighs it won't make it look better, actually that would make them look worse. you want the return lip left intact at the top. actually the process is to line them up from the TOP DOWN. I just finished a set of thighs, and I'm waiting for my camera batteries to recharge I have planned some detailed shots of the inside and the outside of the top and bottom of the right and left legs. The back bottom of the AP thighs is usually cut off right near the edge of the block to allow you to bend your leg

Hello troops! I have quite a few things to share in this post, while I take a small break from building 4 suits of armor 2 blasters and ton's of other stuff that's brewing in my workshop. Being a part of this group of people has been one of the high points in my life, at 52 I'm still learning about the film that changed me as a person. In 1972 I started in Star Trek costuming, but more about that later. In 1976 I was involved in wearing costumes for Logan's Run. I had 2 costumes made from that film and I even replicated the torn up version in Logn's Run costuming and was fortunate enough to meet one of the original authors. George Clayton Johnson. Costuming actually started much longer in the past even than that as I did a mirror mirror kirk style costume in the beginning of my childhood where I was able to go to conventions at a very early age. Most kids were amazed at special effects, and acting and costuming, back in the days of printed fanzines, sci-fi clubs, and even Star Trek Starship clubs started being created, almost like an early version of the 501st legion, as we all were involved in some way to study art and entertainment. I even had an ELVIS costume and saw him perform wearing my costume in the audience. This was when he was in his prime in Las Vegas, where I lived as a kid. We owned 7 Music stores back in those days. Star Wars Costuming has been a passion of mine since those early days, and when I was in School back in those days I was trying to sculpt Armor, and tried to make some blasters. Many years went by and now we have the most accurate and complete understanding of the Stormtrooper that we've ever had as a group, and I'm glad to be here, and to finally see what I wanted since I was a child. The Real Stormtrooper costume! Post Sections to be added later: My armors: My blasters My projects My tools. People who have helped

I even need a headset mic to try out. they used to have some really slimline 3.5mm headsets back in the day.

try a computer store.

I use glue on the neck...CA aka crazy glue. no glue on the brow. ( but it can shift... so a drop here and there can help) the Screen accurate way is supposed to be unglued, but that most likely is a myth.

I for one, say this thread is excellent and is a fine example of how much has improved in this. well done all around!

our job is to help troopers. our loyalty to the 501 mandate of bad guys doing good comes to mind. everyone has a different learning curve, and I personally like any question, no matter how many times it's been asked that's one of the reasons we have people like mathias, or glen, or clamps, or myself, and many other like minded souls who keep on site and help the newcomers. the TK information post image maps would be a great way to get all the data linked to the photographs of parts on all the different TK's I'm sure our Detachment Leader can help to upgrade that resource. Imagine clicking on a ROTJ helmet and getting all the information on where to buy, and how to assemble it. when that resource is finished it would be a great way for newcomers to search the relevant threads. it can be a little daunting to answer the same questions over and over, and that's the pleasure of being able to link to a thread where the information has already been discussed!

I'd like the Deployment officer to chime in with his opinion on these boots. the toe, and the shape of the elastic panel look a little off to me? can the DO reply with the proper boot to purchase for a centurion build? thanks in advance phil! PM sent

the original poster of this thread shows boots with seams soren... you need to keep track of the context of the thread. the second poster shows slippers for a DT. only soren has the correct boots. well... I have 3 pairs of TK boots... so what do I know? mine are approved. I'd approve soren's boots...

we already know how to paint boots.

I would clear those. too bad none of the other boots would clear. again... every element matters. we do not allow "close enough" the 501 demands accuracy even at the base level.