TK bondservnt

photos?

e-6000 melts hips when in contact with nickle snaps. it also can melt hips when under pressure and large amounts are used. it also CAN melt abs to the point where you can see a nickle snap. I have personal experience with having to purchase new armor parts because the glue melted my hips. it also slightly melted my ABS too. ever since I now apply thin layers, and always use tape to insulate my snaps. this is how I felt when I saw the damaged armor. bantha poodo!

The faceplate on NE armor looks exactly like AP.

the testors colors match the screen used colors more closely. humbrol has changed the color grey to a lighter format. this makes the ears and frown on humbrol helmets far too light in color. I have humbrol and testors paints, and my decals I get from trooperbay have been pantone matched to screen used helmets. the color matching process that trooperbay used makes it clear that testors 1138 grey is a perfect match. the tubestripe blue, and gloss black humbrol colors are still the same.

7.5 oz leather is too thick!

my head exploded... now I need a replacement! WTB... new head. amazing detail. words are not enough to give this detail the proper send up! glue might be considered in some locations? maybe easier than solder?

all you need to do to get a high brow is trim the helmet for a low brow. then when you're assembling the faceplate, you cut about 1/4" off right at the chin area, leaving the ear area the same width. trim the cap n back fully, and drill out all holes on the exact mounting locations. (leave the lower ear screw hole intact at this point) then when mounting the faceplate at the cheek screws simply rotate the faceplate down, (the area where you cut the chin shorter will allow you to fit your head inside. after you have created the brow height by rotating the face down you can drill the holes in the faceplate for the new ear screw locations. start with the center screw on each ear and line up the face/cap n back and drill from the cap n back though the face. use the cap n back screw holes as guides when the faceplate is mounted with your rotation. then drill out the faceplate at the proper locations using the cap n back rotation as a guide. this makes the entry hole smaller, thus the small trim on the chin area. the other way: the only other way to create a low brow is to cut the cap n back. this can create a longer brow trim, so don't cut the rubber till you're ready to fit everything.

the faceplate looks so close someone could say the RC word. I have spent the last 4 years studying the AP form so much that this is an amazing comparison. looking at the shapes I see only minor changes from the NE pull. the NE pull looks modified in certain areas and in fact is probably a better pull than some AP seconds I've seen. I know the AP form inside out... and this looks like a mirror image with the same scale and shapes I am totally not happy with the way this photo looks... because it's too much the same!

very well done!

try screwing them on... the tension from the screws helps a LOT!

the video has the mounting location for the split rivet in the wrong spot it's too high up on the inside. the box alignment should follow the screen used format. using CA glue on armor is fine if you work really clean!

you should not fill the depression on the butcap it's an actual detail that should be there

The trooperbay video series has only one mistake. the rivet mounting location for the power cell thigh pack.

very nice job! the bayonet lug flat area and the breech are the only slight flaws!

I posted the cricket because I think hovie speakers sound like jimmy cricket. it's a lot more fun to use the aker and icomm setup!~ PTT is my way to go.

7.4 volt with a 3.2 forward rgb common cathode? 6 led's in a row. on the left side. R1-R6 what's the capacitance and resistance ratings.

he does not list the led types that I want to use. he also did not want to supply a list of components for use on his boards. you seem to think it's just resistors and leds... but in my situation it's different... my setup requires capacitors.... and his instructions don't cover that. please mathias stop trolling my post with inaccurate information.

he does not answer@! that's the point... so... what's the math on 6 rgb luxeon leds? how much capacitance? how much power? how much resistance? figuring on a 7.4 dc load? you both say read... and I've read... and there's no data except what he could tell me. the PDF is not clear, and the website is not clear. FX sabres does not have clear data. he basically says "figure it out on your own" and thanks for your help everyone... I know how to read incomplete information. the PDF and website don't describe how to wire up the board in every configuration. on the FX sabres website people have to submit wiring diagrams... and ERV only can reply... " I think that's correct"

everytime I have have written ERV on the RPF or on his site... he's "busy" and too busy with projects to help.

ERV expects me to understand everything... and he sold me the board and does not help.. he just quotes his RPF thread... and expects me to know how to do it. and his PDF and his thread does not explain how to wire up different led and power settings. he just gives basic examples and expects understanding. he speaks french as a first language and he just brushes people off when asking questions. it took me 3 years to get the board, and now all I get is bad advice from the people I needed the most. it's like saying... :" I like Rs props more than I like TM... but AP is ok... if you want to go that way." see how that makes sense to us... but to someone who does not understand it's just meaningless. it's that way when trying to understand how to run a blastercore.

so far I know that I need a sat board for my propagation leds. since these will be multi color then I will have to adjust. but there is no data on resistors and capacitors and power settings for multicolor led's in the PDF. we see the design in the e-11 x but ERV does not explain the process.

you make it sound so simple... but it's not that easy. the capacitors are what you're missing. see... the blastercore is not simple... if you wire it with red led's it's simple... but to do a multicolor propagation ray it requires capacitors and resistors in a specific balance. I don't know the balance... and ERV does... but he does not describe it in the PDF

actually I want to have someone wire up a propagation ray barrel insert with both blue and red multicolor leds this usually requires a different set of capacitors, resistors and led's than the usual PDF description for low power red led's see... I have read the PDF and I know the difference between what is described and what is done. ERV made the PDF different than the e-11 x... it's not simple. so I was thinking that someone could help me with wiring up a multicolor propagaton ray barrell with a multicolor led on the front. the answer is yes... I do want someone to wire it up for me.

i was asking about red and blue propagation ray. chris only mentions the lower rating red "standard" led. I dont want that.

I want multicolor propagation ray. again... I want multi-color propagation ray. blue and red. you assume 9 volts, and only a red propagation ray. when I mentioned clearly blue and red propagation ray on one side of the barrel. the PDF makes several assumptions... a dual red propagation ray on each side of the barrel. and other mistakes. how many typo errors can you find in the blastercore 4.0 manual?