TK bondservnt

all you need to do is add bondo in the correct areas and it will look exactly like an M38

I also make AP TD clips.

I can complete a kit. PM me.

working with mark is something I do. I've trimmed over 20 kits. it's fun! you should order a trimmed kit but you'll have to have help to finish it off. it's not easy to do. if you want have mark build one for you, and mention vern. if you order a trimmed kit you will have to assemble it. not only that but you will have to cut it to fit your body in the forearms and biceps. the leg dimensions are 19" shins 23" thighs forearms 12" biceps 15" neck 19" or less when I assemble armor I use very detailed photos and measurements.

plus one

sterling paint for military in the early days was the russian paint which parkerized in one coat, then later on the paint you mention is used. in the 70's you have a crinkle paint, but in the 50's you have a parkerized paint. smooth versions of the sterling were produced by fazerkly and sold to many other locations. but the UK ministry of defense rejected the smooth paint versions and had them sold off. in star wars the paint is military bumpy. for the firing versions. then for the promo shots they use a 70's police version which was painted with modern crinkle paint. so for on screen versions of the e-11 we have parkerized bumps, and for the promo shots it's crinkle engine paint. the link mathias points out is one of the links I provided a long time ago... it's interesting reading!

there is a sale thread for the cylinders. playful wolf cub is selling amazing replicas! you can also go bumpy with sterling paint work, the original sterlings have a really interesting texture to them, it's from a paint called surcote, which was actually purchased by sterling arms from russia. it creates a parkerized non shiny surface. you can replicate the bumpy texture by adding paint with an un-even brush and tap the bristles into the paint. the T Tracks and sight rail and counter are all that is not bumpy on the paint! The selector switch could be painted to look like blued steel with steel edges. usually the hengstler counter is mounted with the eagle directly across from the front foot of the scope, and I see you have the scope mounted perfectly! overall this is a 9.5 out of 10!

I am the one who gave darman the advice he needed to correct his dimensions still selling them as well myself

you could use fibreglass to extend them and when painted, won't be seen!

you can add strips of plastic to close the gap.

one of the helmets from the fire in AA's shop... ?? nope!

ok you do not have the correct scope for anything star wars/ both scopes are not seen in the film. so you don't have to worry about the lenses because both of the scopes are wrong. sorry to say you can use bondo to fix it up The correct designation should not have the A2 mark. The A2 designations are not star wars scopes. you simply need to use bondo to correct the A2 to the pure m38

there is a lens tool that you'll want to make or purchase. best place to try is a gunsmith. they usually have creative ways of making tools. don't hack away at the retaining ring, that's even harder to replace than a lens! some machinists also might know how to properly handle it. photos are not working bro!

Thanks to everyone who liked my How To. sure wish there were more field ex to show... we need more content! location location location... oh wait... content! nice birthday present for me in august! 52 and counting!

Karin, you say I'm making FALSE claims, and you clog up this thread with multiple posts. you can't even be polite to the original poster. what right do you have to say that I'm a putting forward a false claim? you just extend and populate your negative mindset. this is not a burger joint and your post is like a little kid in a schoolyard talking down to everyone around you. I have been using this method for 3 years, and you've been making latex handguards for 4 years. so what? who cares? mike is happy with not only your advice but mine as well, if you'd simply READ MORE CLOSELY. he's going to try your concept on one handguard, and my concept on another. quit talking smack about my concepts... they are not FALSE, and you have no right to say that, because I know you have not tried it! I'm about to put up a series of photos showing the process used on a set of trooperbay non latex handguards just for you karin. photos incoming!

thanks for the input mike. food for thought to be sure.

mike, the problem rests wih karin and ofther members because handplates are part of her passion. we all get passionate around here sometimes. it's part of what drives the inner workings of the FISD itself. we all have our moments of failure and personal quirks. the thread you have here is important to karin's turf and some seek to quell progress. trooperbay, and karin have been selling products for quite a while now, and now I'm entering the marketplace to improve the AP armor itself, by adding latex handplates to his inventory of items a trooper can choose as an upgrade. experience is important to me, and I've been here since 2008 - with my own quirks and passions. the overall mood of the FISD has improved a lot since it started. we used to get in quite a few hot debates. I must say sorry for all the drama... drama knows who drama is. I for one am going to continue to help people, and also sell stuff for troopers to use. just like karin and mathias want to help, so do I.

I have permission not only from AP to cast my own handplates. but I also have the permission to sell them. soon I shall open a thread with my AP style latex handplates. Mark Harrison has granted me permission to recast his handplates. if people cast latex into their own property and wear them without selling them it's not recasting. recasting is not a problem if you have permission to do so? now is it?

"If you are going to tell everyone that comes with their own ideas that yours is much better then that is also against the spirit of the forum, and yes you will actually have to supply some proof that what you are saying is actually true if you are going to make such claims. Therefore you should be scientific. " I have never said it was better. that's in your own mind. my photographic proof materials used, paint and sealer. with trooperbay recovereed,.

here's the original poster's comment on my suggestions... sounds like he is into the idea? He even likes the HOW TO post I put forward, and plans to update that thread as well, all done in a positive way. I see how the agenda is openly stated: "You think it's harassment, but I'm just one of the few people that still aren't worn out from calling you out when you are acting out. You think it's personal because you are in the line of fire so often, but it's not. It's just that most people aren't racking down on others posts as much as you do." acting out? by answering a post? line of fire? where? I see no negative impulse so you say I rack down? opinion of yours. there are many people who message me and compliment me they thank me for help. if you read closely you will see that I have no negative comments, only suggestions and compliments to karin and trooperbay. I even accept Glen's great suggestion and openly link to it here and in my own HOW TO. it's not a "line of fire" or a "fight" it's TROOPERS HELPING TROOPERS! The original poster used the question "how to paint" not me? so I didn't cross post, I answered his post, then I made my own separate scientific post the same day, now let's not get confused. I've been using this method for 3 years now and staff only has been complaining for less than a week. :: it's a little joke :: nudge nudge :: perhaps we shall see a newsletter article?

I'm not going to be baited mathias.

Quoted for evidence of rules being broken. -Troll, flame, or be offensive. We’ll remove posts we think are ethically, racially, religiously, or sexually offensive, insulting, demeaning, harassing, threatening or just non-constructively negative. We reserve the right to immediately delete any posting or ban any user at our sole discretion. I think glen did a great job.. I just mentioned that you don't have to bake it with my method. is that negative? I then follow it up with a compliment. I've seen how you post comments about Glen's suggestions on paint removal. and it's just like you do to me... you put people down, and glen only could retreat and be polite while you ran him into the ground. you only seek to control my post content by being insulting and demeaning, then you harrass when questioned, and then you usually take actions like locking my threads, and such... I see you have a "line of fire" agenda against me, and I'm calling you out on that, and how you also speak to others on this forum. I'm sure Glen felt demeaned by your comments in the newsletter thread. mathias, your only purpose in comments in this thread are not about the topic at all. you simply derail threads with negative comments and confused opinions. it's like you are trying to destroy my contribution to the forum with a personal agenda. I have the right to bring up contextual ideas, like taking the solution and expanding it into other ideas, you have no right to control my post content as you see fit, there are no rules about relevance, no rules about adding ideas on top of other great ideas. from snap plates, to glue types, all threads cover both relevant and what you call "irrelevant" concepts ALL OVER this forum.

mathias, I've posted this in the HOW TO section with photos showing the process. and if you READ MORE CLOSELY you'll see that the original poster has trooperbay handguards, NOT true latex! I really dislike your post mathias, it's not in the spirit of this forum. I have the right to post any information into any thread without being badgered, harrassed and told what to do. you have no right to tell me to be any more "scientific" this is the exact same type of bullying and harrassment I've seen from you before. I have included detailed and very exacting instructions. I have used the exact same procedure to fix trooperbay handguards, which is what this post IS ABOUT in american schools children are being taught not to be like you mathias this quote only proves your lack of diplomacy or even basic polite conversation. bullying, harrassment, baiting, fighting, arguing and such are against the rules of this forum. and again you break them all with your arrogance. and I quote you "There's an expression that comes to my mind suitable for situations like these; "Step up, or shut up". I steped up. here's a photo showing both trooperbay and my own handguards if I ever get another harrasment post from you mathias I'm going to take it to the legion counsel. and we'll have it out and let albin and command staff of the 501st legion to STEP UP and put your comments in the correct location. here is the link to my more science related solution: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24531-how-to-repair-and-repaint-flexible-stormtrooper-handguards/

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16590-paint-dimensions/

negative comments are really not needed in a forum where people help each other find solutions to common problems. I've been using this method to make my own handguards and repair older ones from karin, and from trooperbay. for about 3 years now. glen has also posted his own HOW TO- paint handguards thread almost 2 days after my post. I place his link inside my own How To answer thread because I support positive comments and ideas. his great solution is located http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24545-how-to-paint-handguards-another-option/ I'd say our two solutions are much better than mixing paint with glue, or using fabric paint. or using plasti dip. with my method you can skip buying handguards and just make your own. the materials are much less expensive than purchasing a set from trooperbay or across the planet. and the material is true latex, which you can choose to mix in paint, or add it on top, as you choose. BOOT PAINTING you can even use the sealer on a pair of painted boots. I use angelus leather paint and the sealer. you don't have to sand the boots, or prep them in ANY way. just apply the paint with a sponge and seal with the clear sealer. even works on the elastic! no fuss no mess, no waiting for days for leather dye to cure.