TK bondservnt

add the flat spot for the bayonet lug on the left, add the bayonet lug. add the T Track on the right. folding stock more forward to extend past the tip. better! here's a wires pic

not bad for your first one! you should cover the holes with another T Track on the right side. looks like all your starting parts are not actually cast from the originals. small details are needed if you wanted to bring up the accuracy a little. the bayonet lug flat spot, the rear folding stock mount, the folding stock front should extend past the barrel about 1/2" the wires also don't attach to the pins on the counter, they actually attach below them on the body of the counter. also the T Tracks should bend into the holes on the barrel. but overall I'd say you did a fine job with the parts you have. next time purchase the Doopy Do's MK II kit, and you'll see the difference! I had fun looking at this and you can be proud of it!

so the arm sameness like in the AP armor is seen on screen in ESB. nice to know!

a painted ABS lid?

looking forward to seeing a masterpiece here! if you have any scoopes left over let me know. I'm going to do several of these myself!

john, really if you look closely at blasters in the film the counter is basically in the same location on them. you have it too far back away from the mag well. the front edge of the counter is less than an inch away from the mag well. from your photos it looks like the sight rail is too thin, and the counter is too low and too far back. the screw for the scope on the front is basically centered on the same plane as the eagle. the length of the wires, and the position of the counter is easy seen on the wires photo. see how close the hengstler, scope and magazine well are? the hengstler overlaps the power cells by almost 1/2" as you can clearly see it's very close and tight grouping. in the leia confronts vader pic the only difference is the scopes in the photo are different, which make the location "LOOK" different in the photo, but actually they are in the same position

that's the HIPS kit from 08 cmon boss!

have TM build the lid for you. done.

mark seems to think that the rail should be wider. it's all in the eye of the maker/beholder. it should just be a little bit higher for the hengstler as well. it's a love thing!

paul, can you shed some light on the ESB mk II trimming details? such as how the parts differ?

nice counter bracket, but I personally think that it should sit up higher. I'd say at least till the counter is sitting so it's on the halfline horizontal to the scope. I also think that the thinner sight rail is not right for an m38 and a hengstler. it should be the 16mm.

17.5

the hyperfirm DLT 19. carbon rod inside sealed foam.

now you know why I'm reading this thread! blaster maniac convention: see thread below as more of us sign into this thread!

I really believe that the width of the sight rail is wider than the vent hole. on all the replica's I've made the rear foot of the scope is the same width as the rail. at the rear you simply notch out the sides in a T shape. and fit a 5/10" bolt nut combination from there. the other rail you show seems to be a little too thin in width. I actually use 3/4" flat aluminum. notched at the rear to fit the sight, and the width is cut down at the front hook to fit inside the vent. the 16mm looks closer to what you want!! here is a cropped shot of firebladejedi's sight rail. notice how it's cut and tapered at each end? now here's a suggestion: take a close look at the photo with the wires. see how the sight rail is clearly wider than the vent hole? (again shows more of a 16mm width.) you can also see that it's wider than T track which also should completely cover the holes. and my version for comparison: here's how the rear should be cut for fitting.

hey marv! I have all the information you'll need for a removable sight rail! I'd actually make 2 sight rails and just have them interchange with scope and hengstler combinations. fireblade jedi has a really good example of the removable sight rail: it neatly tucks into the last cooling hole on top and bolts though at the rear sight. as you can see it's notched slightly at both ends. the bolt at the rear sight holds the notch into the cooling hole and allows for easy modification of the demill without resorting to a dual bolted sight rail. this type of sight rail looks the best in my opinion. one bolt/nut combination with access by removing the end cap. here is a great shot showing that the hengstler is in line with the front screw point of the scope and the height and position of it. one of the other members shows the wires. and if you look really close, the wires DON"T attach to the pins on the hengstler, they actually attach BELOW the pins to the body of the counter. you can clearly see that the wires are not shaver cord wires, and are really thin PCB connection DC voltage thin insulated wire. there are blobs of silver solder on the counter, and it looks like some kind of red bead, or somthing at the end of the wire where it folds under and connects to the magazine well power cells. The hengstler counter bracket is actually best done by making a sheetmetal L angle screwed into the counter and on top of the sight rail, but under the front foot of the scope. making it out of a more flexible metal and thin metal is really good for when it catches on someone's purse, or clothing as they walk by in a crowded convention hall. ( I know this because it happened. The "bendable" break away nature of the design probably saved me) The width of the sight rail should match the front foot width of your scope, either m38 or m40. and by the way marv! SELL me that m40 scope! I have the funds, and I want it!

if you want an accurate blaster with inside barrel, open holes in the body and even the inner cocking spring! let me know! I have a couple ready to build? ANH, 2 types ESB 3 types (london prop store, ESB standard, ESB greeblie stunt.) prices vary from 150 for basic ESB version to 180.00 for ANH and greeblie stunt versions. for more information see my signature links and photos below I don't take payment until finished. all details and build photos provided in my signature links...

nice job!~

it would have to have lycra liner. and the ribb pattern should follow the hero taper!

if you keep the trimming correct they are really strong! best to have them float free, but you can take the stress off the shoulder straps by connecting your shoulder bells together with a long strap, and removing the snaps to the bells from the straps. this is a more screen accurate way of internal strapping. I'd make the strap out of webbing with a buckle adjustment, to allow for exact positioning.

best stored indoors in the dark, in a cool dry place. think- "closet" not garage.

there have been some amazing display armors made by TM wearers. rick330 comes to mind... there are several... I'll dig up some ref links.

I think that if a person made a pack with an Alice frame, it actually is shorter than a sandy pack and it curves away from the body at the bottom. most of the HWT packs that I've seen just seem to be a little larger in scale than what we see in the game. lot's of the packs look really great, but to me there's just a few details- the depth and height seem to be just a little too large... any thoughts?

it's a nice addition to the toolbox for keeping paint even.

I WANT my battlefront II back! was so much fun to shoot down long white hallways and hear the sound of blaster fire in the morning!