TK bondservnt

you can clearly see a slight return on all those edges! small... but it's there!

spot on!

3/8" head size brads or split rivets.

it's always best to add pins or nut/bolt combinations for the handle and magazine well.

it would be nice to have plans for the real sterling tube. erv even had to reduce the plan for the vents and modify the breech to make a "real sterling" set of plans from the bbc plans. the plans I created were for the doopy Do's kit version 1. with the new doopy out, anyone can glue together and paint a blaster in less than a week. making the internals, and bolting it all together is much harder with the version 2 kit, since the bolt is moulded in. it looks like the doopy kit ver 2 also has a really thick inner diameter with the addition of a pvc pipe. the depth of the vent holes are really deep, and detract a little from the overall look. any work on this karin?

you nailed it bro! wide rail totally rocks! and the hengstler bracket is very interesting. nice work!

the whole thing about shapeways is that you can make hollow parts. they even suggest to lower the cost of parts to make them hollow. if you compare shapeways with a machineist program the start up cost is very minimal. I've been looking for the proper location for making items, and it looks like shapeways is the best so far. parts could be printed in ABS and coated or painted right from the factory. I would not hesitate to pay over 100.00 usd for a full set of hollow steel ROTJ parts.

the oakley fibreglass versions look horrible. they modded the hell out of them! NICE JOB on getting on the coolest site besides this one... we love new armor.

print a metal object and have it shipped to your door. wow.

rpf links don't have the 3d file?

now that's what a recast should look like... lol!

I just get my fans from radio shack. some frown screen taped on. and wired to a 9v with a toggle.

I have just seen that you can have items 3d printed in the UK. they take your design and print it using metal powder and resin. the metal part is then baked and the resin is replaced under high pressure and heat with brass. any metal design can be made, and the prices are cheap too! the company allows you to upload your design and they finish it up and send it out. you can even sell your metal designs from the store they have! www.shapeways.com --------

if you have an ABS plastic kit, then you can shine it with "novus" polish. if you have an HIPS plastic suit, then usually you would paint it, and then clear coat it, then wetsand polish. it all depends upon the type of material your suit is made of.

nice job! all you need is the inner bolt, inner barrel, and inner spring! the sight rail is good with 3/4" aluminum flat bar 1/8" thick. I make my hengstler brackets out of sheet metal and bend by hand. nice use of the clamps. I've used e-6000 before on blasters, so I know it's a good fit!

nice gradiation of color values.

I don't use heat. just a vise and light even taps with a hammer. the long part is below in the vise, and the short end is bent flat and anvil style hammered till it's flat. if anyone wants a bent sight rail with scope holes but with an un finished rear end I can make them for 10.00 plus shipping. the score line placed on one side and on the bottom side of the bend, helps to keep the bend flat and even. the taps with the hammer are light and on the end of the strip. as the part bends over, you keep tapping at the proper angle and keeping it light, the aluminum bends easy with about 4-5 taps.

a vise. a hacksaw. a dremel. a pattern. aluminum flat bar. a drill. some duct tape. a hammer. to bend metal in a vise: score the bend with the hacksaw so it forms a line or score mark. tape the score mark with duct tape to protect from vise. align score mark in vise. tap with hammer in the correct position towards the score mark. the score mark helps the metal bend along the line and the hammer should be applied carefully to allow the aluminum to bend down towards the score mark.

when I make this version I'm going to re-sculpt the top rail T Track and the Scope Rail metal will extend inside the barrel, and down into the inner barrel for extra strength. then it's just the pressure holding from the front, while the rail bolts down at the rear with a 5/10 nut. the inner barrel also will have a false inner bolt, so the cocking handle can extend with a pin into that for extra strength. "wouldn't it have been cool if filmfreak created the bolt separate, then we could have a working cocking action." the new doopy works well with 3 different types of sight rail. 4 if you mod the top rail T Track. 1 double 90d bent at front and rear, using 1/8 steel rivets front and rear. 2 curved front low rider. notched at front, swooping front bend and bolted at rear. 3 modified 90d at front/ bolt to rear 4 mod T Track top rail, 90d bend

and now finally for the 25000 dollar question! what are the size of the nut/bolts? length? head size? nut size? thanks paul for chiming in on this very important topic!

I think the new doopy do's kit needs: 1. An inner barrel. 2. false bolt end. 3. inner spring. 4. sight rail(s) 3 different versions. 5. hengstler counter brackets. 6. power cell wires. what do you think a reasonable price would be for all these items.

I think the new doopy do's kit needs an inner barrel, false bolt end and inner spring. anyone want to purchase that from me?

the guy who did this is genius. I remember this from a while ago...

this newsletter is exactly why I'm here!

I just pour latex into the mould from a distance into one corner I'd make the mould flat and open on the back. if you mix paint acrylic paint into latex it works wonders. and making the latex shiny can be done with acrylic sealer.