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TK bondservnt

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by TK bondservnt

  1. keep in mind that you'll need a different blaster for centurion status. it's all in the details!
  2. the blaster needs to have the row of holes open in the proper location. otherwise it looks pretty close from here.
  3. I stand by my concept of the cresta being a piece of T Track. I have a scope here, and some T Track. I'll put them together and take a photo. give me a day or so.
  4. I order helmet parts from him constantly!
  5. you prolly have to use a punch set to mark a divot in the cap from the inside. then drill from there. I am thinking about making some more of these myself. nice work. actually I think that the inner small tubes were adjustable capacitors soldered to the baseplate. they seem to be at 60 degree angles pointing outwards. let me see if I can dig up a screenshot. the feet for the tubes also has a curve in them, or actually goes into a hole in each cell. Woah! take a look at these! you can find more pics go to the blog
  6. looks aces from here... nice job! I've been staring at the pack and I'm trying to decide some features for my own. I've been busy helping others with their armor. need to get back to this type of build myself!
  7. he sculpted the forming buck. by using the clay model as a guide.
  8. you can probably import the drawings in the advanced area and convert them into STL.
  9. nice. hengstler is a little low and a little far back. imho. where's the inner barrel and spring? looking good so far.
  10. looks like the kind I make too!
  11. the purple skin is the bump map. the other is the texture map.
  12. how about using grommets with a hole in them? is that ok? for the belt alignment in relation to the belt, simply look closely at your provided screenshots. to me it looks like grommets with 2 vertically spaced evenly according to your diagram
  13. take a close look at the first centurion build. also rick 330 has good photos of the inside of how armor should look.
  14. sweet details, and it's nice to see a dual blaster ESB!
  15. you can get the doopy do's kit with the pipe already built. you just attach a sight rail and the components glue in place. no more fiddling with the incorrect BBC templates. if you look in my signature you'll see better Free plans and my build photo threads show how to assemble it.
  16. hand painting the stencil with a brush right mike?
  17. like robert said! all I can say is that Fx armor and a hasbro would be nice to lose. you can get the real cast from original, and then of course there's always the new Sci man armor coming out. the kit quality and standards of the FISD are leading the way to accurate armor no matter what size trooper you are! making an accurate blaster with lights and sound is not that hard!
  18. eventually it would be really nice to see the 501 leaving the hasbro toy in the closet at home.
  19. some helmets were hand painted, some were decals. it depends upon which film you're doing.
  20. the problem is that you're using spray paint. you need to use brush on humbrol colors for making tubestripes! the spray paint method was not used for making helmets in the first place... that's the main problem here. the whole concept requires hand brushing. too much paint equals bleed. airbrush concepts work because of the low volume of paint and the control over flow.
  21. you can glue the thighs closed, or you can leave them velcro. the centurion status is basically a screen used style of fitting and assembly. using the proper brads for the thigh power cell and glue for the shin knee plate is the way to go.
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