T-Jay

Congrats on completing this stage of the build. The paint job really worked well and looks spot on. Also the reticle lens and the tiny screws are very nice highlights. Just wondering why you did not close this gap with green stuff prior to painting? Well on the other hand, not many people will ever notice it at all.

Had the same worries on my first build, but weathering is really fun - just remind yourself, sometimes less is more.

Still the same since more than two months. Anything I can do to get emails from FISD again?

Good job done on this armor and the submission thread. Your strapping seems to be very robust. Nice idea to use magnets.

Hey Freddy, glad to see your application for Centurion. Good luck mate.

Current colour on the scope looks very good to me. No wrinkle paint recommended for this part. A flat black finish is common for the scopes, but looking at original scopes I think a semi-gloss (or even gloss) black really works better.

Hi Miras, maybe the chapter #24 - The Scope Rail from the E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE helps you.

Black washers? No, I wrote about a black washing to make the screws look aged.

Hi Davin, there are some photos missing in your current application thread. Please have a look at the Expert Infantry Application Photo Checklist to see, what the staff will need. Once the information is gathered together, you can edit your posting above and add the required photos/infos.

Adding these screws is something I really like when building scopes. More tricky than one would think, but absolutely rewarding to see real metal screws on a painted scope. Side note: remove them again for painting the scope and later add a black washing onto the screw heads. This makes shiny steel appear aged. Good luck mate.

Great story Giles and well written. Thank you for taking the time to post this and share it with us.

Any chance to lower your helmet a bit? Maybe with a thinner padding or completely remove it.

Very nice work, Sven. I hope the aluminum foil can stand the friction from sliding through the receiver tube. Will you paint that rail black? Looking forward to your next update...

Used some 3D printed parts within a resin build and have to say that stuff is much harder to drill or sand than resin. So, green light from the stability point of view.

Good idea with the rubber washer and a great find with those tiny screws. Cannot wait to see them installed...

Hi Jake, sounds like you made your homework and have exact knowledge of different weathering techniques. Can't wait to see you starting this project. Following...

Hello Jason, glad to have you joining the FISD. Do you have any plans to aim for level 2 or 3 with your stormtrooper armor?

It should work without damaging it. When having it in hands, you can unscrew the black retainer ring (with a knife blade or something). When the retainer ring is removed, the two small lenses and the spacer ring between them should fall out. If not, gently push something through the front end. No, the picture you are referring to is from a build with Brian's (@Bulldog44) scope with hollowed core and shows two casted resin pieces holding the small lens in place. This is slightly different to what you are building. According to my research back then, the two small lenses with spacer ring are used to compensate the pillow- and barrel-distorsion (see the graphic from my earlier comment), which is useful for real telescopes. In our resin builds we do not get them to work like that (believe me, I tried hard). We just want both scope ends to look real. From that point of view, it is absolutely up to you if you want to install just one small lens, or both of them with that spacer ring. As for the orientation, I would always install the domed side facing the outside. Real telescopes have it that way and you want yours to look real. Not sure on this one, as it never had any impact on my builds. Give it a try and play with the parts you have, try various combinations and check if one changes anything...

Maybe this helps:

Welcome Alex. Nice photo and happy trooping.

THIS is a crazy cool idea, Marko. Very nice. May I just kindly suggest to use countersunk screws for this?! The power of the magnets is limited and you will need to bring them as close as you can. Otherwise you risk losing your magazine. If you do not have such screws, you could also drill 4 holes into the bottom corners of your magazine to make room for the current screw heads. No matter which way you go, just try to eliminate that air gap between the magnets in the magazine and the ones in the housing.

Whaaaat??? I was worrying about what could have went wrong and it was just the glasses. Basically yes. If you look at the first image below, this effect depends on a specific distance between the lens and the point where all the arrows meet. You are using that metal part from the monocular and this will ensure the correct distance for a good magnification without seeing the engravings of the reticle lens upside down. Just tested it. Works with and without glasses.

Correct. I would like to, but unfortunately have to skip this. Maybe you can make it to the Reads Day in Bergheim a week earlier (Sa. 10th of Nov.). If not, I am sure there will be opportunities in the future to meet again.

Congratulations Jim. Do not forget to request 501st access with your new TK ID to find some new sublevels at FISD. Edit: oops, you already did

Hi Jesse, from what I can see, you already found the exact same pictures, I just wanted to send you. Your setup in this photo seems absolutely correct and you should get a proper magnification of the engravings in the reticle lens. You said it is blurry. Hm, that is strange. Okay, try the following steps: 1. Flip the reticle lens. Maybe the wrong side was facing the big lens and the thickness of the reticle lens distorted the distance for a good magnification. 2. Check the installation of the big lens in that housing. It has a plain and a domed side. Plain side should point towards the reticle lens, domed side towards your eye. To flip it, just unscrew the big retainer ring and it should drop out of the housing. 3. Try playing with those two lenses. Change their distance and check if you need more or less distance than what you currently have with that metal piece of the monocular. Had no such issue yet and keeping fingers crossed...