T-Jay

If this blaster build comes to an end one day, we will need a video clip of all the features of this master piece.

Is it just me, or do these shoulder bells have a massive return edge on the bottom?

Exactly what Jordan already stated. Always better to have someone (idealy an experienced TK) taking your approval photos. That makes it a lot easier for you.

Congratulations Jordan. I keep fingers crossed for your level 2 and 3 applications Guessing the ones currently stated in his signature (ANH Reserve Pilot and Bridge Crew)

Interesting work on the magazine. And keen eye with the selector switch.

Hi Jared, good job done on the armor and this request thread. Should be an easy pass, I guess. I really like the idea with the velcro to keep the belt in place.

Glad to hear you are considering to build the scope with the lenses instead of the speaker inside. Your drawing contains the cool idea to access the BlastFX board through the ejection port and pulling back the charging handle. This compresses the spring, which causes problems with running the wires along the spring towards the speaker in the end cap - and the pressure on the speaker. Well, if I get this drawing right, you already found two workarounds: 1 - If the ejection port is covered with a separate piece (held in place with magnets), you won't need to pull back the charging handle to access the BlastFX. Easy way for the wires then. 2 - With the wires running in a small channel below your receiver tube, they won't cause any issues with the spring inside the receiver, even when this gets compressed. Both ways seem to work but the spring's last coil could damage the speaker in the end cap. The drawing shows two rings (styrene and foam) to absorb some of this pressure. Hey, looks like you already found a solution for each problem. Or did I get something wrong here? Oh, and I like your idea with the foam cylinder pressing against the end cap. That should work.

Update 09: - armor in the box For those who are wondering, if and how the TK with standard strapping fits into that box, here is how I pack it for a troop. Tetris level 1 Everything fits fine into the 113 liters box, including helmet, boots, blaster and the voice amp. Between some armor parts, there is still space left for food and drinks, emergency repair kit and spare clothes. Because the box is pretty full, you can store it vertically without everything getting mixed up inside - always good when using an elevator. Maybe this helps a few other troopers here in the decision process…

A good advise from Ilan and exactly what I had in mind, too. You can also have a look in other (successful) EIB request threads and check them. As you currently only have 8 posts I just wanted to mention, you can edit your first post here in this thread and add missing photos there. So all information will remain in that first post, what makes it easier for the staff people to check your request. What I noticed on the armor: looks like your drop boxes are mounted in slightly different positions on the belt What I noticed on the blaster: the Hengstler counter could sit a bit closer to the scope, but I doubt this will cause any serious problems Good luck with your EIB request

Okay, when installing the speaker inside the scope (as shown in your picture below), it will sit very close to the big lens. The short distance between speaker back and big lens affects the magnification - in a negative way. It needs more distance to work good. You can test this by holding the big lens in your hand, look at an object and then change the distance between lens and object. Anyway, with the speaker so close to the lens, magnification will most likely not work. Hiding the speaker under a target picture is a good idea then. I would suggest to go for the biggest picture possible.

Great work done on this armor, Giles! All thumbs up Just wanted to mention something that has not yet been stated: the white spaces between the teeth. Do you think you can carefully trim this with a key file to be more square? Not sure if the current look would cause any issues with the higher levels. I just noticed it when looking at your helmet.

Indeed Dan - and he has not done it all yet... The first two photos are really scaring. Let's keep fingers crossed you'll never have to disassemble that blaster for maintenance after filling the screw holes...

Loving this

Okay, good progress so far. For the scope rail I would suggest to bring the front end down a bit. If you get it parallel to the receiver tube below it, that would be perfect. Depending on the material of your blaster kit, you might be able to correct the folding stock forks with a heat gun. Check the temperature and distance to avoid burning the material and keep the forks in position when cooling down. That should do the trick.

Pretty cool idea with the cellophane. Just make sure to seal the back of the LED circuit board, to block any light from leaving in the wrong direction. Not sure about a speaker in the scope. Yes it would fit and I understand you focus on the sound instead of the scope's look. But you can also modify the Hengstler counter to be an echo chamber. Or place the speaker inside the Sterling end cap, so sound can build up and escape through the slot for the charging handle. Don't underestimate the look of a scope with glas lenses. You might think the audience won't notice the big lens while trooping, as it sits at the blaster's other end. Yes and no. If you pose for a photo it will be like this. But when you lower your arm (and you will do this a lot to relax your muscles), the rear side of your blaster will be clearly visible. Due to its nature, it will also slightly tilt frontwards, allowing the people around you to get a clear view at the scope and the numbers in the counter. Just my two cents. Oh, and that is a very uncommon way to install the magazine housing. But hey, what's common on THIS extraordinary build?! Keep it up, mate.

Thanks for the explanation. Sounds like you are well prepared for this build. Working on it. Feel free to drop me a PM when you get to this point...

Give it a try and contact the resin casters. If they don't want your trigger guards, they could be a nice addition to the Completion Sets for resin blasters...

Hi Rat, haven't seen a THG Props blaster before. Some parts look like copied from a DoopyDoo's kit (power cylinders, trigger guard), while others seem to be from different kits (magazine with clip, detailed front sight and extra muzzle). The heavy seam lines and the solid area between folding stock and receiver tube make me wonder, if this blaster was made in a mold for rubber blasters. Is it all solid resin? Guessing you will first sand the seam lines and then fill all air bubble holes with some epoxy?! A colored primer could then help to find the last weak spots. A lot of work, for sure. But you could turn that thing into something. Keeping fingers crossed for this. Good luck.

You could offer some boxes to makers of resin blaster kits (like Phoenix Props or DoopyDoo's) because a trigger guard from resin is either thin and fragile, or thick and inaccurate.

Usually we see people drill all the holes in the DoopyDoo's kit. Crazy to see you filling them - but totally accurate for this project. Looking good so far... Did you notice the position of the "LOCK-FREE screw" in the grip? Seems like they made a new mold, as earlier kits had a different position. One thing less for you to correct.

Yep, looks very interesting. Following... Wouldn't a rubber blaster be a better base for this project? Thought the Pugman was a solid rubber casting with additional greeblies?! Good thing you seem to have a lot of that POR15, as it will be required to fill the areas below the scope rail, between folding stock and receiver tube, inside the channel for the charging lever and behind the trigger. Can't wait to see this build going on...

Congratulations on finishing your first E-11 blaster, Kevin. Just re-read your thread and got to say, you went the extra-mile on so many parts of this build. Beside of that, the Hengstler counter is outstanding, the scope is fully hollowed/drilled through and has lenses. And your trigger group with the aluminum covers is one of the best I have ever seen! I really love it. Take good care of this beautyful blaster. I wish you a lot of fun with it while trooping.

Again great progress, Jesse. I am really curious to see, what you will be doing with the inner bolt section... Guessing you meant this video from Aaron, or the one from myself. I know I said this before Jesse, but this build is absolutely outstanding - from each and every aspect! Keep that up.

No email address at all. Have never been in direct contact with DoopyDoo's. All my orders just went through their online shop.

Oh, that's very interesting Chris! Like many others here, I really like these resin kits and they are being offered at an absolutely reasonable price. The only weakness, from an accuracy point of view, are the 3 mentioned parts: power cylinders, counter and most obviously the magazine. Yes being nitpicky, the trigger guard is also wrong. But a real one from metal is so thin, you can't make this from resin without a very high risk to break it. So that part is okay and if somebody wants to do it accurate, an aluminum trigger guard is the best way to go. Yes, your 3D power cylinders are faaar more accurate, than the ones in these kits and I am glad you still offer them. The counter from DoopyDoo's however was moulded, using a different type of the Hengstler 400 series. I guess it was a Hengstler CR0464165 or something similar. That newer version they used has the modern logo (not the eagle) and the window is wrong with only an outline where the reset button should be. Nitpicking, I know. But if you remember the resin counter from Derrek's (@Dday) Phoenix Props Blaster kit, THAT was a brilliant one!