T-Jay

Loving it Great work, makes me want to start another blaster.

Maybe @TK-50101 Blue Snaggletooth or @SlyFox740 can chime in and help here. They both have good knowledge of the R1 blaster. Maybe this also helps...

I had wondered seeing the thick wires of the earlier version. Your completion kit should contain a wire for the three central capacitors. It is item #19. Was it missing?

Congratulations James, welcome to the team.

Looks tasty. Let the fun begin...

Crazy cool idea. Maybe its just the angle of the photo, but that 'tear-shaped' indentation on the side looks a bit small. Will you also add a number there?

Great idea and good solution. Would suggest to check some reference photos. The amount of visible coils seems a lot to me, maybe you can stretch the spring and then shorten it to compensate this.

A good eye for details. At the power cylinders everything is sooo small, that being off just a millimeter can look wrong. You really cared for this.

Looking good Jesse. Can't wait for your next update.

Sorry Pat, I am following so many E-11 build threads, sometimes its hard to correctly remember who did which modification. Sorry for the confusion. What about filling up that hole with green stuff and making a new, smaller one? Or is there any chance to re-inforce the clip with a thin layer of metal on the bottom? (just brainstorming...)

Give it a try, Patrick. Leave it as thick as possible and pick a small drill bit for the hole in the middle. In case it brakes, there are 3D printed versions available from Chris (themaninthesuitcase).

Maybe someone with experience on airbrush techniques can answer this. I finished my builds only with brush and spray can.

On the photo below you can see the trigger guard is a bit wider on the top end, compared to the bottom end. When doing mine, I cut it from 12mm on the front to 10mm on the rear end.

My pleasure. You see, it was worth it. Your build already benefited from it. This mod looks great. One of the best I have ever seen. When it comes to painting, the spray paint will have trouble getting into these slots. Would suggest to pre-paint those 'hard-to-reach-spots' with a brush first. What an idea to bring the trigger guard into correct shape. Awesome! I built so many blasters and some of them got replacement trigger guards from aluminum, all shaped individually. I never thought about doing something like this. A great solution - might have to copy that for future builds to come. (damn, just completed two blasters and could have used this.

THAT looks so cool man! Try to grip the interior with nose pliers and pull it out. To make this easier, you can fuzz up (I hope the online translator worked correct here) the red insulation at the opposite end and grab this with another pliers.

Happy new year Patrick and wow - what a start you made! Loving this build.

Exactly.

Sorry Jesse, my mistake. The soldering dots belong where the end caps meet the front end of the cylinder tubes. Hard to explain but you can ignore it, because the soldering dots are NOT on top (as I said earlier). They are on the bottom and can not be seen there. So just ignore my comment. Sorry for the confusion mate.

Update 10: - review 2018 It is the last day of the year, so I just wanted to post a few nice pictures from troops during 2018. Yes, have been pretty active in 2018. But there is still enough space left on the Stanley box... Wishing you all a Happy New Year 2019!

Outstanding job, Jesse. A beautyful pair of power cylinders. Don't forget the wing stubs and to put a soldering dot on top of the two main cylinders.

Great to have you back, Marko. Seems like the current holidays allow some troopers to spend time on the work bench again (including me ). Congrats on getting that original folding stock, though having spent so much work to hollow out the resin version. But hey, you can keep that for your next build...

Hey Patrick, very nice build progress. Can't see anything wrong so far. Okay, you had small problems but successfully managed to fix them. Considering your attention to details, this is going to become a very good blaster. Well, this is not rocket science. In the text from the Blaster Reference we just had to recommend something. This is what we ended up with but you are okay to roughly stick with that. The same was for the position of the scope. Some people had it sitting too close to the front or rear end of the rail. So we came up with that "rear foot of scope should be aligned with the folding stock hinge" because this looks correct. Meaning, as long as scope and counter are somewhere, where they are supposed to be, everything will look fine. You are on a good way!

Exactly what Joseph said. Would suggest to focus on the outstanding issues first. Maybe you also find a stripe of aluminum to recreate that trigger guard.

Welcome to the FISD, Nik.

Heaviest option would be a deactivated Sterling, followed by solid rubber castings (like Praetorian Blasters or the above mentioned THG). Less weight with the resin kits (like DoopyDoo's or Phoenix Props). For the same reasons that you have and out of curiosity I am planning a new build for early 2019, focussed on lightweight. Beginning soon...