T-Jay

Welcome Cameron, great looking RS armor.

Oh, sorry to hear the handle broke - and at the same time glad to see you found a solution that fast.

Wow, great work Bryan. Do you think you can maybe hollow the area between the folding stock and the trigger group? Just thought this would save some weight, printing material and time. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

Loving this attention to detail.

Me too and I guess Brian @Bulldog44 would also love to know.

Congratulations Simon on getting this beautyful blaster done in such a short time. Photos do look great. There is just one little thing to mention: your charging handle seems to be installed front to back. The photos above are taken in an angle, which makes it hard to see, but I noticed that on the side-views in your EIB and Centurion apps. Keeping fingers crossed for an easy fix (hopefully)... And good luck for level 2 and 3.

Not sure if hot water will work but if you have access to a heat gun, I would highly recommend using that. And here is a tutorial with some general help for installing T-tracks:

@Stormystormtrooper Hi Toshi, just came across this great list today again and have an update: Unfortunately the E-11 resin kits from Phoenix Props (cast in dark grey resin) and the replacement magazines from gazmosis are meanwhile no longer available. Sad thing.

Once you officially received your TK ID, don't forget to register for 501st access here to discover new sub-levels of FISD.

My mistake, should have noticed that in your last photo above. Well, in that case I would give it a try and do it like shown in your picture. Keeping fingers crossed...

Before cutting the counter bracket, I would try a placement test when it is attached to the rear foot of the scope. Would that bring the counter in a suitable position?

Very nice, David. Looking forward to your next build update. Getting closer to paint this beauty.

Not sure what types of glue are available in France, but if you do a quick google-search for "gluing aluminum" it should bring some useful results. I guess you will find some kind of universal glue, as well as two-component glues. Also double-check, if you really need to bond aluminum to aluminum, or maybe steel to aluminum. Keep us updated, because this might also be of interest for other people with the same blaster kit in the future.

Thanks for the close-up photos, David. I wish these welds were on the other side, but I guess that is much more difficult during production. The T-shaped part prevents your end cap from twisting and unintentionally releasing. By pressing on the patterned bottom end, the other end is raised and space created for the end cap. Here is a short video clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l72kvNbmnac&feature=youtu.be After the blaster is complete (including paint), you will most likely never again have to disassemble this section. So, a permanent connection (like solder or glue) can be used.

Beautiful! You have done an outstanding job with all the upgrades, the paintjob and the perfect weathering. This build turned out great.

Maybe chapter #28 (Painting) helps. And here is how I did it in my last posted build.

Was wondering about that exact same thing. Original Sterlings don't seem to have this. Maybe Fieldmarshall's reference had it...?! In the trigger group there is another hole and it looks like both have to be aligned. But that would only make sense, if you had a countersunk screw to add there. Maybe it got lost in transit, or is so small that it hides inside another item from this kit. There is currently not much experience with building this kit, because your thread is the first one I am aware of, reaching this point. So I would suggest to double-check with Chris (@fieldmarshall). He should know.

Hey Christian, congratulations on completing your armor and welcome to the ranks. Will you be aiming for the higher levels as well?

Not sure if hot glue will do the trick, but Joseph, Andrew and Tony already provided helpful comments. If you are looking for a different way, you can get a ruler with integrated line-magnifier like this for example. I have seen counter windows being made from this as well.

Sorry to hear this. I guess all you can do is using fine sandpaper, then a very fine sandpaper, then a very very fine one and polishing paste at the end. We've seen people here on FISD scratch-building this domed window from a piece of plexiglass.

Great story and well written, Michael. Wishing you a lot of fun on your troops.

Sounds like a plan, Simon. Regarding the power cylinders, here is a link to Andy's (PlayfulWolfCub) research thread. He went into this topic like no one else before. Not sure if you knew this PDF. Regarding the monocular, here is a link to 'Update #24' of my Lucky#Eleven build, how to best install the lenses AND the reticle lens. Maybe it is of any help.

Honestly, I love following this build. Not only because the updates are coming on an almost regular basis, but also because of the precise way each item is installed. Seems like somebody is eager to indeed use EVERY item from his completion set, he?! That is how it should be.

Dovetail mod and knurling pattern on the front sight cage. Together with your front sight pin and the small grub screw, you have taken this section of your blaster to the limit. By the way, your build seems to run smooth and pretty fast. Keep the updates coming...