T-Jay

That's correct. There should be a small gap between the rear end of the grip and the hinge from the folding stock. About 2 or 3 mm should be fine.

Same over here. Bought about 7 or 8 of their kits during the last years and never had any issues with missing parts or delayed shipping. Okay, it takes a few weeks to arrive, but once you know that... The email to inform about shipping is not that new, but the tracking info is. Nice feature. Now what do we have to do, to make them change the mold of that magazine??? And the counter? And the power cylinders?

That is the perfect place for that little mode button. Can't think of anywhere better. Hot glue will surely do the job. Just make sure to install the knob deep enough to avoid inadvertently pushing it, while holding the blaster.

Ouch! Can only imagine what work you went through, when stripping off all this paint. Really sad to hear. Unbelievable cleaning work as your last picture shows. Almost nothing left from that mess. Guessing you have done enough fine-sanding to skip the primer and just begin with the first paint layer...

If you plan to use screws in the positions with the green arrows, that should work great without anything else. In that 2014-build, I simply had not thought of running a screw through the rear end of the grip for additional support.

That is a very good idea, Chris. Definitely worth to test, before doing this with that priceless helmet.

Hi Blair, first of all: welcome to FISD That is an awesome helmet you have there and I fully understand your need to "save" all these signatures. My guess would be, the wear and tear also happens during transport. As you still plan to add more autographs, I would not use any transparent covering sprays at this moment. Wait with this, until you have the last autograph. To protect everything in the meantime, I would wrap it in cling film for the transport. That would avoid any direct contact with the surface, while at the same time still make it accessible for adding new signatures.

No need to apologize for your "likes" Dan. I am glad if all the work would be of any help for other troopers. Thanks again.

Thank you guys for covering Jeremy's question. He meanwhile sent me a message and I just replied to it.

Update 08: - transport box for the armor As participation in events became more frequently, I had to think about a suitable transport box for the armor. Up to now I attended 9 events, carrying everything in that 4 years old BBB. After seriously researching, I ended up with a Stanley box. Many here will think of the popular 190 liters box, because it is a good choice for TKs with original strapping. My TK has the standard strapping, so I looked for something smaller and found a 113 liters size. Note: It took two months with lid opened for the factory stench to evaporate… The box seems very robust. I can sit and stand on it without problems. The integrated lock is a nice feature, but be warned: I tested my key on 5 other Stanley boxes and it worked on each of them! Looks like they use the exact same lock for all boxes. Guessing a few guys (including me) will soon replace their locks. Now onto decorating the box… Was happy to have that V-groove covered in a useful way. There is space for about 60 - 70 events. Enough for me. Went on with the sides. Seen many boxes full with interesting stickers, but I had not enough to fill the sides. What I had instead, were two laser-cut imperial cogs “from an earlier project”. I am really happy with the result and do like the clean look. In case anybody wants to pick up the aluminum cover on the v-groove, then please make sure to use a sufficient thickness. My alu stripe is only 0.8mm. A bit more would be better, as these boxes might be stacked on big events.

According to page 10 of the Sterling User Handbook, this is called the "single shot position". Tried hard but did not find the letter "R" in those three words. Another source said A=automatic, R=repeat, S=safe Oh, and good build progress.

Regarding the glue: that slot in my resin selector lever was a bit smaller than the white part of that rotary switch. I really had to press the lever onto the switch. Otherwise I would have used glue - why not?! Most likely, there won't be a situation, where you need to remove the lever again (after spray painting).

Had the same problem, Jesse. Below is how I did it. Full progress can be found in this chapter. Hope this helps. Keeping fingers crossed.

Just a few days ago, I wondered when we would finally get another update from Jesse again. Here we go. Glad to see you found time to continue working on this beauty. Yes, installing that rotary switch into the grip is not an easy task and you chose a much cleaner way than me.

I totally second what Dan said. This trigger group absolutely rocks! - just like your paintjob. The result looks like factory-new spare parts. The slotted screw in your grip (LOCK/FREE) should be in the LOCK position.

Much better, Kevin. Glad you were still able to fix this.

Unfortunately I can not provide an exact measurement at the moment, as my digital calliper is currently unavailable. But it should be around 5.5 mm wide. Maybe someone else can chime in to help. And for the LED: just add washers, so it only sticks out about 1mm or less. On an original Sterling magazine you can push this button to slide off the top cover and access the spring powered loading mechanism.

Hi Kevin, great to have you back, posting again. Awesome job done on the folding stock, scope and the smaller pieces. The only thing that I would re-check is the width of the clearing stripe on your inner bolt. And the LED sticks out a bit too far in your magazine top plate. That should be easy to correct with some washers. Please don't feel pushed, it's just us here at FISD, wanting you to get the best out of your resin kit.

Received the PM and replied. Thanks for covering this, Dan. @Miketrg Thanks very much for your interest, Michael. Looks like your current post count is too low to enter this section from FISD. But here is a link to a blaster build, where many items from a completion set got used (including other additional parts that are not included in the completion sets).

Feeling pushed, Kris? Do you regret starting this build thread? Just kidding. We are all here to help and to show the options you have, as sometimes there are so many, it becomes hard to keep an overview. You made a good start already. Looking forward to your next update...

I second that - and you found a nice way to install the D-ring on your DoopyDoo's kit. Looks very good.

Hi Kris, seems like the laser cutter/engraver from your local college came in handy for building this beautyful blaster stand. Very nice work. And those four pieces to rest your blaster on while building, really look awesome! Instead of throwing them away when your build is done, you should consider using them for another two blaster stands. What about the inaccurate magazine from the DoopyDoo's kit? Any plans to replace that? Or maybe scratch-build something with that freaky laser cutter? Following...

Congratulations on finishing your (first) E-11 blaster, Freddy. It will surely be more than enough to troop with your RS armor soon. I am keeping fingers crossed for that build too and wish you a good time with the blaster and your suit. And yes, I am sure we manage to meet someday at an event...

Great news Freddy, looking forward to your final pictures. Been at the RPC with the 501st both days last weekend. So sorry to hear now, you were there and we missed to meet. Maybe more luck next year when you join us with your RS armor.

Wow, that was some serious conversion work on the counter. Well done Kevin How did you manage to modify the grey cover with the window?