T-Jay

Good luck Justin. I love this weathering.

You are posting this in Sven's (HSM76) thread. Dracotrooper's (Jesse) thread can be found here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42791-doopydoos-full-resin-kit-wip-tinochris-more-additional-parts/

The tactical light is the main feature to identify a Rogue One blaster. Glad to hear you have it now and completed this build. Oh, and the view through the scope is fantastic!

Hm, seems like something has been changed. 8 days ago I was able to see the photos, but not any more.

Hi Tom, welcome to the home of the shiny white armor. Congratulations on your basic approval. Have you ever heard of the levels 2 and 3? If not, check this out:

Looks good. What color do you use for the eye lens? The ref photos seem to show everything from grey, to light blue and black.

Years ago, I used such a removable type of spray paint, but if I had to do it again now, I would go with standard black spray paint. Reason 1: Back then, I was not sure if it would work or if I have to undo it. Reason 2: During usage, the paint peeled off in some spots, which makes you a hard time fixing this.

As far as I know, you could use leftover pieces from a fly screen (if available). Depending on the width of the mesh you can use two or three layers. Depends on the sanding. Low grits cause 'bigger' flakes that just trickle to the ground. Fine grits cause smaller flakes with the danger of inhaling them. Long story short: use that mask.

Looks great man! Wait one day for the green stuff to fully cure, then sand and check if you are happy with it. A primer might help on this.

Additionally to the things that Dan already pointed out, there is one mistake on this blaster: the magazine is inserted the wrong way. Here is how it should be installed:

Hi Scott, that 3D-printed front sight looks great and you have done an excellent job on the dove tail mod. With the current CRLs I do not see any issues with displays. Usually these are installed in the Hengstler counter and/or in the M.H.R. telescope, facing the wearer. This should be okay, I guess.

Looks great. What color did you use for the inner bolt? Very realistic.

As far as I know, there was a "6 feet rule" in the filming industry back then (not sure if still is). In other words, go no closer than 6 feet and then use the zoom.

Hi Mike, if you are referring to chapter #17, mod D, then I guess Brian @Bulldog44 might be able to help you, as this was a modification on his build.

Hello and welcome to the FISD. Something I often recommend, is to get in contact with your local Garrison. You currently have no location info in your profile, but if you let us know where you are living, we can help. Meeting these people will help you in so many ways and seeing armors of different makers in person, really trains your eyes for the small variations and details.

Almost exactly five years ago this thread went through the roof. Who remembers? 139 replies within two months only! Many of us got to know each other a little better because of the stories behind the nicknames that were shared. Scrolling through the pages now, many avatars and signatures bring back good memories. Yes, since 2015 some members (sadly) left, but on the other hand a lot of new members joined. New members, that might not be aware of this thread, so I thought it could be fun to dig this out again. The topic says it all, so get on your keyboards.

Hi Stuart. As far as I know, cracks can be stopped and prevented with a support on the rear side. Add a piece of plastic or poor-man's fibreglass (that is a cloth, soaked with CA glue) to distribute the stress to a larger area. But that is all just theory to me. Maybe someone who already did this can chime in. The rear sides of the knees had been trimmed on many screen-used armors and from many troopers here. Just have a look at the build threads.

Beside of that, the photos are very confusing because the finished blaster in the first photo is the copy of a Bapty (used by the Sandtroopers in Tunisia), while the kit-photo shows a different 3D-printed kit.

A great result Andreas - and done in record time! I really like the weathered look of this blaster. Well done.

Don't worry about that, I had the same. It is no disadvantage as multiple layers of paint do make a great finish. What about covering the hammered paint in stressed spots before adding the final black coat? This would make a nice weathered effect.

What is wrong with this color? Is it gun metal grey or something? (hard to tell from a photo with flashlight)

Hi Andreas, i really like the green stuff welding seam on the magazine housing. Can't wait to see that whole thing painted.

There are builds based on both of these materials. Resin kits are very popular and have been the choice of countless troopers for many years now (at least for the common E-11 versions). Meanwhile 3D-prints are on the market, too and the big issue here is: how accurate are the files?! To find the right blaster for you, I suggest to first study the CRL of your preferred costume. Then check the requirements for that specific blaster(s) to bring it up to level 2 and 3. Then look again at your $200-resin kit and the $100 3D-print to distinguish, which one fits best. In case you are not familiar with levels 2 and 3, here is an introduction to this. Any questions, just ask.

Exactly what I thought, so here is an overview that might help you. 4 of 5 German Squads do have an Attaché, so your chances are very good.