T-Jay

Wow, that looks crazy professional, mate.

Good progress. Did you glue the T-tracks to the receiver tube at this stage? Depending on your plans to paint the receiver, this can be much easier without the T-tracks attached.

THAT sounds sooo familiar to me. Thank you Brian for helping another FISD member in the same situation again. Yep, since that day, my only workaround for not missing any PMs here is to log on daily! Would be happy, if this issue could get fixed some day...

Welcome to the Legion, Robert. Here are a few tips for your first troop. Have fun.

Curious to see this thing in real life...

What I like the most about watching new Star Wars trailers: - it brings back the excitement of a child at Christmas - the Lucasfilm Ltd. logo appears and expectations rise - the music, the pictures and the sounds make you feel home - tears of joy - and finally goose bumps all over Sometimes a trailer can cause more fascination, than the whole movie itself. Let's hope it will be different with this (last?) episode...

Hello Chris and welcome to the home of the Stormtroopers.

Great additions to a blaster, that already was very beautiful before! If possible, I would recommend to rotate the trigger group retaining pin from position FREE to LOCK. The FREE position was used for disassembling this group.

Hello Victoria, glad to see you started your build thread here. Regarding posting photos here are two links that you might find helpful: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44598-posting-photos-from-google-photos/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46368-photo-uploading-help/

Absolutely. When the time comes, maybe we should get Brien (@Harbinger) in the boat to make sure, we use the correct graphics. Could also imagine a 'First Order version'.

C-3PO with a Wookiee belt and bowcaster???

Congratulations Erick! You made it! Any plans to go for level 2 and 3?

37 troops with my DoopyDoo's full resin blaster. No serious problems. So far I managed to break off a magazine and a front sight guard. Both was fixed the same day with CA glue. Weighs about 1.1 kg (2.43 lbs). Good for long events. Some full rubber blasters weigh more.

Congratulations on completing this outstanding blaster. During the last years I followed a lot of resin builds. Although this is a totally different kit from aluminum, it was still one of the most interesting builds to watch. Your recent photos are jaw-dropping awesome and emphasize the quality of both, the kit and the builder. No worries about the T-tracks, they do look perfect - just like the rest of this beauty. I would say 'go for it' because it can really bring things to life. But if overdone, it can also mess up a nice build (just to consider this). In case that is not just a joke, I would be more than happy to see that being shared here in another build thread, David. Now onto a very important thing for some of us: Would you mind telling us the weight of the final blaster?

Congrats David. Picture 3 made me worrying at first, but the additional black layers in picture 4 turned it into a fabulous result. Seems like your research for the perfect paint paid off in the end. The surface looks exactly like on my original scope.

That sounds great man. Can't tell you how happy I am to see this parts kit in the hands of a person, so driven to details. Regarding the trigger guard: in Derrek's kits these were made from resin and after building 'a few' of these E-11, it has always been a fragile part on the finished blaster. Instead of getting a new undamaged trigger guard for more fragile resin casts, it might be an option to contact Chris (Fieldmarshall), as he seems to have more than he ever needs: 20.000 pieces!!! And if contacting him, you could also talk about one of his "cut-to-size magazines". Maybe he is open for a deal...

A good start Brian. May I just kindly ask, why you have chosen to cast the lower end of the magazine? As far as I know this kit, the magazine housing is a solid piece. Does that mean, you are planning a hollowed version, so people can slide in the magazine?

Maybe you can make some corrections with a small brush. From the pictures everything looks good. What exactly are you not happy with?

Wow Brian, great to see this Sterling parts kit in your hands. Considering your striving for accuracy on the hollowed scopes, this can only become an outstanding blaster kit - in case everything works. However, I keep fingers crossed for this...

Oh yes, sorry. I forgot you have a real magazine. In that case I would suggest to leave the magazine like it is. Different shades of black do look more believable.

No worries. Let it fully dry, then sand it. When using the spray can, keep the distance that is recommended in the instructions on the can. A couple of thin layers are best to avoid paint tears. I guess you are doing this to get a structured surface? If so, you might run into the same problem like me: the structure of my hammered paint was not good until I dabbed the wet paint with kitchen paper. The original magazines are just simply black. No structured paint on any surface there. However, you can work with a layer of silver paint underneath the black and then add scratches.

Once finished, you need to do a little video clip to show it in action.

Hello Dennis and welcome to the FISD. Flat black and satin black do both work. Just make sure your grip gets a gloss black. Maybe this helps you. @Mupfel Good progress, Marko. Can't wait to see this blaster assembled and fully operational.

For this section you can simply use silver paint on both sides. On the pictures it looks like metal, because a thin sheet of self-adhesive aluminum foil was used to cover this area.

Congrats Ivan. Welcome to the Legion.