gmrhodes13

Normally the detachment will see a run every 2 years, hopefully you can get your costume ready and approved before the next run sometime this years.

Your ears are quite thick on the top and perhaps a "step" will help them come inwards more closing the cheek gap. My go to threads for ears Some references of screen helmets, many had gaps

Don't forget to update total troops in the title of the first thread, makes tracking easier Troop log title examples:

Looks like you are overdue for a trooping award Info here Post request here and add a link to your troop log

Really depends on the size of your head, we all have to do the twist and drop method when putting the helmet on. I like having more return edge than less, people can't see as much under the helmet, especially younglings. I normally trim so it's curved on the sides so no sharp areas,/corners. Loosely add your S trim and see if your noggin (head) will still go in, if not trim a little more. Ear gap references

I like the guy with his shins on wrong way Great thread here about some of the oddities seen

Teeth look much better. Tube stripes spacing is generally a pencil width as your image now shows BUT it's only an "ideal" position, you would probably get basic and L2 approval how they are now, you would need to adjust them for L3 though Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

Exciting times

There isn't one, not many purchased TKUK as it didn't meet 501st approval. You can find more info on TKUK, use the forum search function and type in TKUK.

Hello and welcome aboard, just a couple of things you could improve on. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. You could try to round of the tops of the black area on the vocoder. Also add white paint to the rim of your hovi tips. Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. Also watch any paint on the gums Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. You could get away with the eyes, however I would try to reduce the gap between the helmet and lens

It's amazing how ones OCD kicks off once you start building a costume (or two/three/four) you can never watch a Star Wars movie/series the same way

Nice work looks great

Congratulations and welcome to the FOTK ranks trooper

1) a good guide for assembling the belt (I want to know how far I need to cut it, where to rivet and any general dimensions). Varies from maker to maker 2) is there an approved way to make the thigh pieces wider? Right now getting both sides closed is almost impossible. Maybe a bigger strip in the back? Any photos of such fixes would be greatly appreciated! Larger cover strip on rear may be allowable, check with your GML as it is up to them if they will approve. If it's too big a gap you may need to add some more material to the sides on the rear. Some links in this thread: Third bonus question: for the strips that seem the armor together, is there a specific width they should be? I saw a pic from someone’s post using 15mm but I haven’t seen that written anywhere. Forearms and biceps 15mm Thighs and shin front 20mm Shin rear 25mm

Great to hear the good news, welcome to the ranks trooper

Round off the point on the side of the vocoder Remove any paint from gums: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. References, note the small gap of white between teeth and gums

Incorrect link, that one goes to a classified record TKID12345, try this one https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=36353

I use velcro, you just have to make sure you get your closure flat, you may just need to hot water bath them. Also make sure you rough up the surfaces before gluing. Example not closing flat Nice and flat Some have even added extra strips to the closures so they can have wider velcro (I find 12.5mm each side is fine as long as they close flat) Bra hook elastic is screen accurate so some prefer that way Cricket has a nice magnet closure, I may try this mod one day.

I thought that photo looked familiar

Seems to be a common problem on WTF, plenty asking the same on his FB page, https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674/search/?q=shins

A discussion on the WTF shins here

Glen, thanks for the quick answers! So in my photo, are A&B the left shin and C&D the right shin? I think it's the other way around, A&B right and C&D left, but check with WTK to be sure, I've not assembled a WTF kit as yet. I did see the cricket build, but still wasn't sure about matching the halves. So is the Sandtrooper sniper plate just an accidental inclusion in the kit? Some makers add Sandtrooper pieces to their kits so you could build either TK or TD

Looking good so far

I don’t have the undersuit yet (bottom). Will sizing with the boots on be adequate? Should be fine For strength, should there also be a cover strip on the inside of the front of the shins? I add one to my builds, just because of the constant opening and closing/ flex. There is this extra piece in the kit, does anyone know what it’s for (piece on the top)? Sniper plate Sandtrooper Per what I said at the top, which half is which? Looks to be ok A&B C&D