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gmrhodes13

Detachment Staff[Staff]
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Everything posted by gmrhodes13

  1. Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks
  2. I had the hard hat type plastic in mine and found it dug into my head after a long troop so promptly removed it and add some velcro and soft foam, a ring of foam goes around the temple and a thin piece of foam inside the top, pretty inexpensive upgrade but a lot more comfortable, for me anyway.
  3. Looks ok, there are some issues of castings remains which would need to be removed and a few holes you cold fill. The counter should be further forward and a little lower
  4. Hello and welcome to the forum, there are a few things which will need upgrading from a standards SDS set of armor, especially for higher levels, a couple of useful links I posted a review in this thread also here Updates made in this thread and now Level 3 Centurion approved
  5. Depends on the armor maker, some are a little easier than others, I used magnets, clamps and masking tape to get it to sit just right, I also didn't take off any of the clamps for 72 hours, the longer you leave the E6000 to dry the better.
  6. Looking forward to seeing this build
  7. Yes painted area is slightly smaller than the width of the button, reference: Note: For Level 3 the paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button.
  8. Perhaps check out some of the R1 build threads to see how others began https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/196-rogue-one-build-threads/ Make sure you build as closely as you can to reference material, especially being a new CRL the finished product with be scrutinised more. And of course measure twice and cut once
  9. The chest/ab straps look as if they could be reduced a little as they are quite long which may help, but side straps would definitely do the trick
  10. There are also these images, 3D files are available for this too also here
  11. On plastic armor straps from the ab to the chest are usually enough but the may not be enough for foam so side straps may need to be added. Fantastic job
  12. Sizing is looking better, you just need to get the bottom of the chest to move backwards more towards the ab plate, the chest is sticking out quite a bit there
  13. Congratulations trooper and welcome to the Centurion ranks
  14. Welcome aboard, you will find some great info here
  15. That is an old way of doing them, it is better to glue the shim to the kidney plate, then add a filler piece so it meets with the outer section then add ABS paste, sand and polish. You can get basic approval and L2 approval with a seam showing but has to be filled for L3
  16. Great work and very impressive building skills. If I was to pick I would suggest sizing down the chest plate a little, it is a tad on the large size
  17. I use a few different sizes, those you mention will work, max width I have is 1", depending on width and thickness can change how much pressure/pulling power the magnets have. Quite cheap on eBay and Aliexpress, as most that comes from overseas shipping does take some time though.
  18. Great work trooper and a nice clean application, a couple of suggestions if I may to really take you to the next level. Your right drop box elastic is a little longer on the right side than left You have quite a lot of shoulder strap showing on the rear, you could adjust the front straps to 1 large tab and 4 to 5 smaller tabs. Also note the elastic in the reference image goes around the backplate, not just the elastic. Shoulder elastic is being pulled outwards, doubling the elastic can help this Bottom ear screw head is on a slant,
  19. Nice work, if you use a block of wood with some sandpaper wrapped around you can sand the pieces straight so they meet a little better, at the moment they are a little jagged.
  20. Sorry to hear you have been unwell, I can definitely relate to that and becoming discouraged, just try small bits at a time, they all add up in the end.
  21. Just watch your gaps between the end caps and control panel, looks a little wide
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