gmrhodes13

Shame about the color difference but a lot of makers armor are different shades, ATA probably the most off white/cream compared to many. I've read most use a gloss white for touch up for Anovos, just be aware that forearms can get pretty scratched up over time.

If you use the "direct link" or "copy link" and paste directly into this thread, makes it a little easier to reference images directly in the thread.

Coming together nicely, hopefully you'll get your BBB soon.

From what I've seen so far most are using just a gloss white.

I know it's extra work but it can save you in the long run, having double snaps in places gives you the opportunity to still troop if one snap fails

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the rank

If you hit the search button you'll find quite a few threads on it's use, having a quick look there doesn't seem to be any negative comments that I have seen https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/search/?q=Isopropyl alcohol

I have snaps under mine, this was mainly for air transport so I could completely pull apart the clamshell to make the armor pieces fit into each other, but as mentioned they don't need to be functional.

The ony issues to worry about is heat from the glue and if you need to swap them out at a later stage due to strapping stretching/adjustment or the need to replace snaps. Having enough clamps, magnets and tape can help when adding E6000 and internal strapping. If it works for you all good but I'd suggest the longer way for longevity of the costume, 7 years of trooping and I've had to swap out a few snaps over the years

Looking forward to the progress, good luck

I would suggest using elastic for the drop boxes, when moving about they can get wedged and having elastic allows them to be pushed out of the way

Hello and welcome to the forums, the black series helmet is styled off Rogue One and not approvable without a lot of work, so for ANH version you won't be able to use it, note that the Hero version also is different to standard Stunt, Hero only have 6 teeth, 3 ear bumps, only 2 ear screws and bubble green lenses. You can find a few other differences list in this doc: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view Also check out the base requirements for ANH Hero here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero Not many go with SDS these days but you can find a few threads in the builds area and also EIB and Centurion sections. Yu can find some great info following others builds so do the research and I'm sure you'll be fine. The guys in Knightfall have a few armor workshops during the year so make sure you sign up on their forum: https://forum.501kfg.com/ Good luck and looking forward to the progress.

Good luck and hope to see a build thread from you soon.

Nice work, a couple of other things that will really make you shine: Tube stripes should ideally be a pencil width from the cheek. Some of your black lines on the helmet are a little thin, now if you want to cheat (shhhh) you could use a permanent marker to go over them. You could also remove a little of the grey from the teeth area, the grey should not go on the gums. Also to stop the butt plate from flaring backwards you could try tighter elastic, if that doesn't work I add a couple of strips of bent ABS behind and glue, still allows movement. Good luck and hope to see your approval soon.

I prefer elastic just allows some movement when bending and stretching, just use the industrial type elastic it's a little thicker than standard elastic. If you loop it over the belt while trial fitting then you can permanently sew in place once you are happy with the positioning.

Looks great, nice work

Looking forward to the progress, we are all here to help and guide you along the way, good luck

Correct

Just be award if you want to use an Icomm static burst unit with it that some amps don't have a return power feed in the mic input, the icomm uses this as a power feed which helps it stay charged, other amps do not. I use a separate MP3 unit which fits in my glove and I have a tee section which allows balster sounds and the mp3 to use the same input jack and the mic uses the other input as the Aker has two inputs

Nice work, looks a tad long but may be the photo, just check with this reference:

Great work, came out a treat, just a note your belt appears to be on a slant, may need an adjustment

Late to the party but looking great, nice progress

Looks like there's a pretty big difference in color of your belt to the rest of the armor. There are some definite differences like the TKC, one considerably is the thigh ammo strip which is not curved on the lower end it's straight and also positioned above the lower thigh ridge not attached on the ridge. Your shoulder bells appear to be open quite a lot on the front you may want to reduce this gap by attaching the straps further forward on the shoulder straps. No large tabs on the shoulder bridges also but that's a higher level requirement. I think you will find it will really come down to what the LMO team believe is game related and what can be achieved in real life armor. Looking forward to the progress.

Great work, looking forward to the progress

We have our yearly convention coming up at the end of June and I'm always looking to build something new for the public to see and as many of us down under won't get the opportunity to get to see Galaxy's Edge I thought it could be nice to replicate a few thigs we've seen so far. 709th legion banner and also the new Star Wars style aurebesh Coke and bottles. Reference Now this was a bit of work, of course I couldn't find any fonts that exactly matched so I had to photoshop a few different versions together. FO Emblem and helmet weren't an issue as they are standard and I was able to find them on a google search, shame I couldn't find larger versions though as they are just a little soft/pixely on the edges. I prefer using the pull-up banner stands rather than flags as they are self standing and don't require any fixings but I'm thinking I may still do a flag in case there is hanging room. Have a fellow member who works at an Officeworks store who can get printing down at discount which saved some $'s and here it is. Coke reference So the first thing was to replicate the font, again it was a matter of photoshopping a few different fonts as well as using the iconic Coke font. Had to print a couple of pages to get the right size, roughly measuring from computer screen. I was pretty happy how they turned out, not exact but pretty close. Next was to find orbs, half an hour walk around the shops and found some plastic orb solar garden lights roughly the right size, $4 each. Indecently we've never had the Coke round bottles here but did notice while searching they've been a thing at some Christmas's in the US. Next was the tops, no way I could have found these locally so it was time to put the new 3D printer and software to work. Enlarged the images with the girl holding the bottle on screen and roughly sized and designed from there, next printed just under 2 hours each, not exact but I'm pretty happy with them. Painted the orb's with a base silver, once dry added strips of black decal sheet to emulate the dark lines (I gather these are clear and can see the Coke inside). Next cut out the printed wording, added clear tape on top, gave them multiple cuts on the ends to help them bend and applied. Lastly the paint, I used acrylic water based paint, found them really easy to use when weathering my Sandy so used the same principals with them. Once rubbed back and weathered I sealed them with a clear coat so the weathering won't rub off. That done I tried find a box similar, no way I was going to find the exact box and I really didn't want it that big. Happy with a similar box I gave it a light sand and applied a few coats of red enamel, once dry in was on to weathering. While drying I made a couple of bent strips of aluminium, when you take of the lid you can turn it around and with the aluminium strips you can stand the lid up showing the logo. That I made once again merging fonts, printed out on paper, the cut out, traced around those on white decal sheet and then cut out and applied, was a bit of work but nice way to spend a rainy day inside. Also made a base plate for inside the box so I don't have to completely fill the box, covered the plate in chrome finish decal sheet which should help reflect the fake ice I'm waiting to arrive. I've also got some blue EI wire which I may use underneath the fake ice but will have to see how much it shows through before final fitting it. All in all I'm pretty happy the way it all turned out, I wish I'd taken more photos but I was just head down an too busy building. Will update once the fake ice arrives. Got a few more things I am thinking of putting togther but we'll see how the design stages work out, works in my head