gmrhodes13

Perhaps a shorter period than waiting for their orders

Biceps and forearms are different, I used heat to oval a bicep and a forearm so they matched their respective pair. With having thinner arms I also added some foam inside all of these so they sat central, with gloves on you don't notice any gaps.

Member TK1901 comes up as "classified' so no doubt retired but from the Dune Sea Garrison https://www.501st.com/members/searchresults.php Once a number is taken it is taken for life so can't be used by anyone else. But you could always add an extra number to the end

Research is the key, gallery section is a good tool to use The issue you will have is that if you cut the ends straight it will be too short, another pre approval SDS has contacted ATA about buying a replacement https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47286-helotech-requesting-pre-approval-sds/ You could also contact SDS and enquire about a replacement but not trimmed rounded cornered.

With an apparent further 3 years licence you'd think Anovos would be on their last chance. It's quite simply, don't try to get too big too fast and deliver what you promise.

Hello and welcome aboard, there are some specific difference between the stunt and hero versions, you can find those in this doc. Also make sure you keep checking the CRL's (costume reference library) you can find TK Hero here Looking forward to the progress, good luck

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Actually the cod is different TFA to TLJ and also the forearms are different on the inner ends, although these are not presently in the CRL's but that could change in the next round of CRL discussions

Looking forward to seeing the pics

Nice work, congratulations

Generally once sanded you need to use a cutting compound, it's a lot rougher than normal polish and will help to bring back the shine. Also try ultra fine sandpaper 2000 grit, it will then need less work to bring back the shine and if you are using wet and dry sandpaper make sure you are using water and a few drops of dish liquid in it, will help the paper to glide easier and not clog as fast.

It would appear either Disney are unaware of Anovos's bad reputation for supply of pre orders OR just doesn't care.

Shoulder bridges are glued at the front, ideally 1 large tab and 4 to 5 small ridges. On the back they float free but are held down with elastic. A few pics in the following threads may help https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39359-placement-of-shoulder-straps/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27985-anh-stunt-shoulder-bridges/

We all go through it

Looking sharp trooper, congrats on your approval

Hurt it does but I'll make sure I get there once before I die

You have to make the image of the signature banner yourself, there are a few people who are happy to help others to make them, you could post and ask for help, perhaps in the NCO section.

I use a heat gun but it does take some practice and I don't advise it for the first timer, a lot of others use a hot water bath, there are a few threads on using water baths in the how to section.

Ideally cover strips are @16mm but can vary, you don't need to keep any return edge and can safely trim those. I needed to apply a little heat to my biceps making them a little more rounded will give you more room.

That would be because that thread is in a 501st only section so you would need to be an approved legion member to access

I would check with your GML (garrison membership liaison) in regards to whether it would be passable as it, personally I would not allow it. To fix the hole you could use ABS paste, here is a how too

Looking forward to seeing the photos, good luck with the rest of the build

Best thinking, it's easy to take off than try to add on later