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gmrhodes13

Detachment Staff[Staff]
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Everything posted by gmrhodes13

  1. Nice work, double snaps I love to see and great preventative measure adding some backing to your shoulder straps. In regards to the curve on the shoulder bell, although screen accurate some armor maker shoulder bells are quite narrow compared to the original armor so definitely do not trim a curve until you've actually fitted them to see how the sit. You basically want to be wearing your top half of the armor to really see how much room you have
  2. Recasting if frowned upon although we can't tell you what to buy, he has recasted others work. I would advise you sign up to your local garrison forums and speak with your GML (garrison membership liaison) as they will be the one ultimately approving your armor.
  3. Quite a few threads on this forum about recasted armor
  4. There are some updates needed to the standard Anovos TK kits you may want to look through Tony's build
  5. Page 10 ANH E-11 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38878-yet-another-doopys-buildpic-heavy/ restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36090-count-choc-anh-e11-aluminum-doopy-pipe-build-pic-heavy/ restored by gmrhodes13
  6. And Phasma made her armor by using scans from a FOTK and adding her spin to it unlike Cardinal's first order supplied armor
  7. Nice work on the updates, you could take a little more paint off the top of the teeth if you wanted, here are some references
  8. Using some tabs on the rivet side can also help, looks like your elastic could be a little tighter as well. Just noticed you also over trimmed your larger ab plate, should have material left around the base, not usually a problem for basic approval (depending on your GML) but it will be an issue for higher level clearance. Here is a reference of the sides, you'll notice the kidney plate had a step down with material left on the bottom, you may find your butt plate will sit up a little high
  9. Personally I would think the figure as that is what the LMO's are basing the costume on. You could always contact the LMO's directly and see what their feelings are [email protected] When having a look through the Phasma FB group I notice there was some plans for cape, may be worth a look.
  10. On areas that don't move I used JB weld, but on areas that can flex E6000 is a lot more forgiving. There is another member who encountered small spats and is adding shims
  11. Nice trim lines, well done
  12. Hello and welcome, armor choice is personal, comes down to price, location, longevity, screen accuracy, some are more accurate than others which you pay for. LFL requests do not come in very often, but some garrisons get a lot more than others, if you haven't already sign up to your local garrison forums, you can find herehttps://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php It is up to you to look after your own armor and any updates, LFL has nothing to do with members armor. LFL has final say over which member/armor will be used for events. Building to L3 Centurion will make your armor more screen accurate which may give you a greater chance of being picked but that's not guaranteed. If you haven't yet look through the CRL's (costume reference gallery) https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Research is the key to this hobby, you can never research enough, good luck with your decision.
  13. Note for centurion you can loose the large tab on the rear of the straps.
  14. I just replied to the comment, wasn't look at what thread it was
  15. Had this with my ATA thighs, a little heat would help. I used a small piece of wood either side to make sure I didn't loose any shape of the ridge You don't have to fill the joins however it is screen accurate to do so
  16. Page 11 ANH E-11 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35879-hyperfirm-e11-scope-lens/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37894-scope-front-screws/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37726-brandons-disney-doo-e-11-build/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37090-e-11-comparisonthoughts/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28003-my-first-build/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 11 ANH E-11 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39531-simons-hasbro-conversion-2016-dhpfx-kit-and-extras/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39530-hasbrodisney-e-11-build/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36911-adders-something-from-nothing-e-11-scratchbuild/#comments, restored by gmrhodes13
  17. It does take some practice using heat on abs, it can go from slightly heated to molten mess very quickly. I use a heat gun but I've had a lot of practice and pretty confident using it, many use the hot water bath method. When possible I try to have a plug/piece of wood behind areas I am trying to modify, it helps keep it nice and straight, if you get in trouble having wood on both sides can help any bumps or lumps
  18. Hello and welcome aboard
  19. A couple of references of the rear shoulder straps
  20. I find with snaps that every time up put your armor on it is in the same positions but using velcro you won't necessarily have everything in the same spots. A nice reference, many using double snaps
  21. Added a couple of references in that thread
  22. I don't think I've seen issues with the size of the spats before, but it may have happened. If they are oval and the shins round you may be able to use a hot water bath and get them to conform a little better. Other than that it would be a case of cutting, adding a section on perhaps both sides, fill with abs paste, sand and fill
  23. If you give them a slight tap with a Philips head screwdriver it will help the post to open up then the snap tool finishes it off, the post will fill up the snap and not just a small edge
  24. First of many Once you get your thighs on you will be able to see how the cod is sitting better and whether you will need bring upwards or trim
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