gmrhodes13

Been a while since I did an RS helmet, but on ATA they sit flush. Here's one of Dan's @CableGuy RS helmet builds/renovations, more images there which may be of help

Armory - Tutorials, Tips and HOW TOs Page 3 Completed - gmrhodes13

Ideal alignment Adding a step to the top of the ear allows it to sit flush and stop any rocking A great helmet build to follow A lot of screen used helmets had gaps, many of us just like a flush fit look, it's all about fine tuning and sanding

Nice work, you may just want to remove a little paint from the gums, especially for higher level approval Add some white on the mic tip rims too

Should be able to just touch up those areas of paint. Just make sure when you have it on your belt that you can see the O detail, many miss then when assembling References below

We are here to help Many makers have not had the opportunity to take molds from original helmets but have spent a lot of time researching and making their own. It's more about vetted sellers using their own work, not directly copying someone else and selling on their own, as well as what material plastic used, what thickens, size and location, lots of things to consider when purchasing. As well as you are assured of receiving what you have purchased, there are a lot of other makers out there on other platforms that will take money and ether supply very late or not supply at all. I have quite a few different makes, RS, ATA, Anovos, Jim's, all are different for my original trilogy I prefer ATA, it's thicker and stronger, less likely to get cracks over time BUT RS is more accurate, thinner and does tend to crack easily. For first order I like Anovos over Jim's, different material and Anovos is so much lighter, but prone to cracking, there are pro's and con's for most. Then you have to consider shipping, can be considerable depending on which country you are from and purchasing from, recently USPS stopped sending international packages to Australia and Pacific areas, even with packages in the air, they sent them all back, they did however say they would send express at considerably more, funny express took twice as long standard shipping as I just received a parcel too 6 weeks, must have come by turtle and kangaroo. But as we have said make sure you know exactly what your Dad will like, there are quite big differences between the movies and particular styles of armor.

Exciting times. Nothing worse than waiting for the temperature to warm up so you can paint.

Tony does have a few more links being staff BUT the "GO TO" link certainly takes you to a place of wonder

I think this can happen a lot with version one of a makers new helmet, I purchased a "Phoenix Props" TLJ helmet, thing looked like it had been put in a vice, "Mr Squishy Head", luckily I've off loaded it now, still waiting on a promised lens too.

Ouch, those recessed areas will be a paint to get right. The brow trim appears recessed which is a little weird (unless there is another piece to go on there) Here's a comparison from Chris's post of the Propstore screen used helmet and black series

Hello and welcome, there is A LOT of info on all the forums and it can be quite daunting, the Getting Started Area is the best place to start. Finding out what version of Stormtrooper your Dad would like to be as there are a few different ones, here are a list of the CRL's (costume reference library) which are the base requirements for legion approval https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL The helmet you have shown is a Black Series which is not approvable for the original trilogy costumes, and would need a lot of work to get it up to approval for Rogue One version, here is a conversion build Always best to purchase from the vetted sellers list, you can be assured of quality and not being ripped off on ebay or esty, maker contact info can be found here Best practice is have a look at some of the build threads, most have the makers initials in the headings, there you can see what you are buying, Another great idea is see local members in person, many have armor workshops and it's a great way to get hands on products and info. You can add as much as you want or as little into the interior of the helmet, as long as it's not seen on the outside. Here is an all in one resource thread for anything else you may need. Why are they called TK's, well nobody really knows the exact answer but: Research is the key to this hobby and it's not a cheap hobby. Hope that has help answer some of your questions, good luck with the research and hope to see a build thread form you soon.

Great to see the updates, hopefully you'll be back at printing soon

Armory - Tutorials, Tips and HOW TOs Page 5 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 4 Completed - gmrhodes13

Looking forward to seeing the progress

Hello and welcome aboard, looking forward to seeing some photos soon

No such thing as a ridiculous number, I can vouch for that Will be looking forward to seeing your progress, good luck with the build

You need to be an approved legion member and have access to the trading cards area.

You need to post all of your photos into your thread, have a look at other EIB applications. Many of us use a free online image host "Imgur" , tutorial below You also need to add a few more images, check this thread

It wasn't to support this particular maker it was to show the mold and vacforming process which is the interesting part

You are very welcome, what's the weather like in your neck of the woods

Best to add a little glue once you have them in place or they will move around, especially important when you don't have someone with an eye for detail around when you are dressing

Congratulations trooper, looking forward to seeing your EIB application soon

Yes black under the white, this is in case they pull then you will see white from the top and not black. Webbing doesn't allow any movement, plus it is what was used on screen armor Adding some glue to elastic before adding snaps will give a little extra strength, I used to do this until I discovered using a soldering iron enforced the hole so no longer required glue.

They make it look so easy. You may notice in the video that the face plug has quite a big area underneath the front chin, it may help. Also the material used appears quite thin and it isn't cooled very much before removal.

The plastic belt corners should meet the edges of the fabric, for higher level approval The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt Drop boxes align with the end of the plastic belt