gmrhodes13

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Looking good. Sebastian added some magnet recesses to the shins, 2 at first with a tab at the top and I asked if he could add a couple more, they are only 2 x 8mm so not sure how strong they will be I normally use a little larger magnets. The other issue will be once there is some paint on both pieces how the inserts will fit, again its just a case of trial and error. Extra magnets

Hello and welcome aboard, a great thread full of info which may be a good start Good luck

Congratulations, now "snap" to it and get this build done I use an almost full piece, it's the top curved section which seems to take the brunt of flexing so having this go all the way will help in the long run. You can always leave it for now and see how you go, easy to replace using E6000

Hello and welcome to the forums, there are some great threads on sizing of armor can be found here. Good luck with the research

Depends on how the maker intended them to be built, there are very few now making 3 piece helmets, I would presume the cap would go over the back, the other way it would be more noticeable. Here's a three piece helmet build and it's cap/dome over back. Note the images are watermarked but you will get the idea Here's another build with the back on top of the cap/dome and it's very noticeable Personally I would do the first, cap/dome over backplate BUT it still depends on how the maker intended them to be assembled, notice the first image the cap/dome is recessed for the backplate, the second image may or may not be.

Looking forward to seeing this completed

With your shoulder straps it is a good idea to add some ABS sheet behind, they do bend a lot over time and can crack. Remember rough up both surfaces before applying glue. You can also shorten the large end tab (if they fit on your armor well), as the short tab is more accurate on the rear.

Great news looking forward to seeing your BBB photos. Can't help with the hovi speaker advice, I use and Icomm and aker amp, I find that perfectly fine for all events.

Preferred is a 2 piece helmet, alignment of the ears and brow trim is important, follow screen references and you should be right. ANH Stunt A few tutorials

No a costume needs to be built before a CRL is finalized, from the link I posted above "CRLs exist both in the wiki and in the Member Database, but are only entered into the latter after a member has completed a costume that is eligible for 501st inclusion". Also screen references are normally preferred (if available) over figures which are a secondary reference source. NOTE anyone can help writing the text for a CRL, all you need to is reach out to our detachment leader @Sly11

One of the problem areas of this costume was going to be the shins, trying to make them in a a way we don't see join lines, I asked Sebastian if he could make the inside of the shin removable, this would work in the same way as realistic clone shins and do away with any join lines down the front and back. All being well you should be able to get your foot through the rest of the shin, rotate and add the insert, either held with magents or velcro. Clone insert on the rear following recessed lines Bad Batch insert on the inside following the recessed lines. Hopefully there will still be enough recess still left when the insert is fitted, if not that recess will have to be lower. When I showed Sebastian the idea I had the lip on the inserted piece and not the actual shin so it would slip behind but the way he has done it I presume should still work, I guess that leaves you with having to print a test shin Lando

Weapons Locker General Weapons Discussion BlasTech DC-15A and DC-15S Page 1 Completed - gmrhodes13 SECTION COMPLETE

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

#1 goal is to get you back on your feet, your armor will still be there when ever you are ready. Glad to hear you are back on the mend and all clear

Someone has to do the research, then build the costume before a CRL goes live, they also have to help with the creation of the text which goes with the CRL before this character would be approved, always a bit of work for a new to the legion costume. More info here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CRLGuide

Hello and welcome aboard

Hello and welcome to the forums, which particular version of Stormtrooper are you looking for, you can find a list here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Also reach out to your local garrison, you can find them here https://www.501st.com/garrison_finder.php Research is the key to this hobby, you may find this thread helpful https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49412-all-in-one-tk-anh-stunt-index-of-resources-by-maskedvengeance/ Good luck

You shouldn't need to heat the glue up, just pry up one edge, add a little pressure an the rest should start letting go, ABS is pretty resilient and shouldn't be damaged.

A small tip when gluing magnets side by side is to add some clear food wrap on the sides that will touch, just in case any glue seeks in between, makes them easier to come apart

For getting rid of any ripples I use two blocks of wood, heat a small area at a time and use a piece of wood either side, you can run them back and forth too for larger heated areas. Some have made wooded plugs so the piece can rest against it and use a small block of wood on the other side, same principle but on a larger scale.

I must be one of the lucky ones I've never had any issues with downloads from Thingiverse in the past but that has worked, cheers

To me they look a little big but I've never used Armorsmith, printing test fitting strips sounds like a very good idea and would hopefully save a lot of wasted filament. Looking forward to seeing more.

Many commission builders build to base requirements, you may very well be approved as it is now, we try to give feedback that will see you hopefully pass not just base requirements but also EIB and Centurion

Belt is looking good. FYI I tried to download the belt box blocks file and it comes up with a 404 error, also the filler, perhaps a Thingiverse issue.