gmrhodes13

Nice work trooper, FYI if you use the "direct link" your images should show in your thread Your right arm bicep appears to be open, normally these are glued as they don't need to be opened when putting them on your arms. You have quite a few dark marks on the armor, some GML's may pick this up, I find using some auto polish can get rid of most marks. Could be my eyes or the photo but your belt boxes look a different shade of white? There is also some bunching of the gaskets at your elbows, I added some loops of elastic to the cuffs of my gaskets which helps keep them tight when putting on. Your left shoulder bell appears to have a gap between it and the back/yoke, should match the other side. Your detonator is not flush with your back, note the detonator on the right side trooper in image below. Back/yoke looks to be pushed backwards which will leave a gap between it and your detonator, you may be able to adjust this. You are also missing the black strip on the left side of the detonator. Butt plate looks to be on an angle compared to your back, this could be what is making your belt pouches/boxes to be on an angle, note the left is pretty noticeable, adding some stiff foam to the inside of the pouch can help. There is also some bunching of your gaskets, note between biceps and bells. You have a hinge/join between the chest and yoke/back, this is how Anovos made their last FOTK armor BUT it is not screen correct, this should be glued, filled and painted, note the reference below Appears to be a large gap under the butt plate, you can see your elastic strap, not sure if you could pull the butt plate in more. Detonator gap on this side also. I think that's about it for the moment, but I've only had one coffee so far today

To finish off I like to use a block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around to tidy up the lines, works well for the belt and knee ammo strip too

Looking better, only thing apart from (as you said) cleaning up a couple of lines, is the masking line in the grey, it is pretty noticeable, perhaps the DO's @Deployment Officer Team will chime in with their thoughts

Here are some references. Ideally 1 large tab and 4 to 5 smaller tabs, but you can have less. NOTE: As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges. This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible.

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Most use Trooperbay ESB decals, unfortunately site appears down at the moment https://trooperbay.com/ can view on his Ebay store https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_dmd=2&_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_ssn=trooper_bay&store_cat=0&store_name=trooperbaycostumingsupplies&_oac=1&_nkw=esb decals To apply you can use warm soapy water, a modelers trick from years gone by but it does take some time to get all the water pushed out from under the decal.

Hello and welcome aboard, ChrisThePRopGuy as been working on some 3D files available but to my knowledge nobody has been approved with them This thread may also be of help

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Looking good, can make a difference when wearing an undersuit so make sure you do final check wearing that

I found it's better to use a permanent glue, E6000 still has some flex and the crack can open again. A 2 pack permanent glue or JB weld has worked for me as I've tried both. Also make sure you rough up both areas with coarse sandpaper so it gives the glue something to grip to.

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I feel ill

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Hello and welcome aboard, for sandy's head over to MEPD Here is a great thread which may be useful You can find the costume reference library here for all 501st costumes https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CRLbyname Good luck with the research

That's really a question for the Flagship Eclipse as it's their costume and they will have the more up to date information from the CRL. At times text and photos don't always match so asking at the specific detachment should give you the correct information https://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forums/index.php?/forum/80-darth-revan/

Not actually a FISD meme but does hit the mark for the 3D printing community

Correct, also make sure you rough the surfaces with sandpaper before applying glue, will give the glue something to hold on too. Also note try not to get any glue on the snaps when applying them, some in the past have had reactions between the snaps and glues which causes heat, I have never encountered this though, be a good idea just to do a test one first You can also recess the snaps so they aren't raised

Either way is fine, I prefer mine trimmed and clean, does give you a touch more viewing area in the inner corners.

ATA ears are quite thick so you could do to trim them down a little more. The offset cut out is in one if the links I posted above, and it works

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It can be hit and miss with color matching but it's definitely worth a try. You can have either 3 or 4 holes trimmed, most have 4 for Stunt and only 3 for Hero version. Some references A great wegsite for references http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm

Congratulations once again trooper, looking forward to seeing many more trooping photos

Congratulations once again trooper

Looking forward to seeing your BBB photos when it arrives.

Be very careful using a heat gun, can take some practice, I normally have a few pieces of wood handy, flat and curved depending what I want to shape, one pieces on either side, it helps to hold and smooth areas while they cool. If you just heat you may find the plastic begins to sag as it's loosing the tension of the heat vacforming. Some use a hot water bath which is a little less heat. Here's a couple of color comparisons, and note these colors can change even with the same maker, they are affected by color change from manufacturer.