gmrhodes13

I find it makes storage a lot easier as it will lay flat. Here's a couple of options. Some also use chicago screws

The longer the elastic (shorter glued area) should allow some more give, it will be a case of trial and error though as you want them to still fully close. If you watch closely in ANH in the TantiveV hallway you will notice a few open rear shins

Nobody has had issues with this until now but once I have some spare time I'll try make it a little more clearer You will also find screen references and some other discussion in this thread

Some good news at long last halleluiah, apparently they have made some changes so they are more in the TLJ style, be nice if they removed the yoke hinge/connector. I guess you should find out soon enough, looking forward to seeing some images.

You'll be amazed just how much removing that small will make to your ability to see

Hello and welcome aboard, another useful thread full of info Good luck and hope to see a build thread from you soon

Costuming and Builds First Order (501st Approved) - TLJ Stormtrooper - TLJ Build Threads Page 2 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 1 Completed - gmrhodes13 SECTION COMPLETED

Nice work, well don

Not currently, our forums are the go to with regards to any build information. Good luck with the research and hope to see a build thread from you soon

My shed floor always has some shavings, even after a sweep, I normally trim a full set of armor in one sitting so it gets pretty messy, even the chair

Personally I would trim the end of the excess plastic on this bicep otherwise you may skewer yourself at some time, although it does match a screen references the way it is sometimes you have to go for comfort not accuracy Magnets have bitten me more than once, some find wrapping material around them help to save your fingers, I just learned to be cautious with them, occasionally thought two will click together and break, but at least my finger isn't in between.

The addition of suspenders also can help stop belts slipping down

Costuming and Builds First Order (501st Approved) - TLJ Stormtrooper Page 2 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 1 Completed - gmrhodes13 SECTION COMPLETED

Being really really picky and I doubt it will be picked up by your GML but if you check the level of the control panel it's a little on an angle, you can also notice this looking at the ribbed section of the panel. Great work though, some nice gaps between the endcaps and control panel, most miss this

Strapping Systems Rivet Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Snap Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Snap Setting Hardware Solutions by TheRascalKing E6000 and Snaps Discussion by Harbinger, Snap Options by ukswrath Snaps with Rivet Heads by TheSwede Split Rivet Placement by DroidHunter How to Use a Rivet Tool by huttman How to Make Snap Plates by stukatrooper Elastic ABS Reinforcement by Cricket Types of Inner Strapping by Shinyarmour1 Internal Strapping by justjoseph63, nrgband Thigh Garter System by Pencap510 Making Thigh Garters by Spectre

Looking good

Most of the time you will find they use either E6000 glue or a more permanent super glue. Just lifting a corner up a little may allow the rest of the button cover to release, if it's a permanent glue then you may be able to either soak in a bath of hot salty water, can help dissolve the glue or leave in a freezer for some time, this can also help release the glue with a little pressure under one corner. If you get really stuck I would suggest speaking with your armor supplier about replacement button covers or try the following: I normally use a heat glue for heating plastic but you have to have some practice with it, you can go from almost pliable to molten mess in the blink of an eye

Still as far away but flying in the opposite direction, looks like I'll miss this one too. But one day, one day

Nice look at the Flamethrower at 27 seconds At 3:48

Pushing down hard so the piece bulges outwards then wrapping tape around tightly will help to keep the cover strip flat while the glue dries, but any pieces under pressure need longer to dry, I wait 48 to 72 hours before removing the tape. Read what I posted above, most pieces will come together using a little pressure and tape. NOTE how much tape I have used to keep the cover strips laying flat If it was me I'd remove that cover strip, sand the end so it looks nice, then re-glue. E6000 excess glue will come off, either rubbing with your thumb, or using popstick or even scrap sharp pieces of ABS plastic, just keep cutting off the dull end. You can also use polish to help with stubborn spots but try to use one of the same color or it can get stuck under the corners of your cover strips.

Any pieces under any strain usually take a little longer to dry, I leave mine for 48 to 72 hours. Although they can be seen on some screen used armor you may want to trim these ends of your coverstrips as they may catch when moving your arms, this is more a comfort thing than screen accuracy

Hello and welcome aboard, this thread should give you some help You will find a lot of info in the Legacy Stormtrooper area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/76-legacy-stormtrooper-joker-squad/ The 501st has base standards for costume approval, these are called the CRL's (costume reference library) Legacy Stormtrooper can be found here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Legacy_Trooper_Female Don't be afraid to ask questions, good luck and hope to see a build thread from you soon

Hello and welcome aboard, here's a great thread full of helpful info, may help you on your journey And you can request 501st access here Looking forward to seeing a build thread from you soon