Rob .T .

Well said Kevin , whilst no one wants this forum to become a " general cosplay" sort of site , a little bit of Star Wars themed non cannon input can't be bad . <br> I'm sure that when (not if ) Terry starts a build thread, it will get plenty of views ,and plenty positive comments .

You need a blaster, as stormtroopers in the movies have both holsters and blasters , so it's an integral part of the uniform .

Bust hunt jodhpur boots on eBay , loads around fifteen quid .

I've just enlarged your photo ...you are wearing the correct Death Star knee plate ...apologies , it just looked very sandy in the small version . Sorry. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And you need to decide upon weather you are going sand trooper ( with your existing left knee sniper plate , or Death Star trooper with your abdominal painted buttons .

You are worrying about nothing . Original chest pieces had very small lips ...one, two mm maybe in places. Check the reference photos on this website . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm with Mark on this ...original and best .

Simply cut a length of pvc to shape and superglue a trim on inside , extending the lip, but not making it visibly wider from the outsiders view . <br> Decent size lips are only really necessary if you are going for screen accurate U bracket strapping , and even then it's not exactly necessary , as the original suits had very little lip .

You must be new here !! Those are the famous FX helmets , just about all you could get until a decade or so ago. The shatter supporters club are all wearing FX armour and helmets . FX armour is still around , but the helmets have thankfully just about died out . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just don't get this obsession with Humbrol paints. Back in 1976 I was a keen styrene kit builder . Humbrol paints were rare in the uk back then , Airfix brand paints were far more common and easily available. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mark, as you are in Scotland , I assume you are going to join the uk garrison . If so, you need to start a build thread on the UKG forum . There the armourers can guide you . You will have to glue all the armour except the shins , as they basically require new armour to be of a very high screen accuracy .

Ok, i give in , either the forum or photo bucket is playing up again . <br><br> Sorry

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James , in the uk you are not allowed to troop with a " real" sterling . Modified de activated stirlings aren't allowed by the UK Garrison . <br> I'd reccomend getting in touch with Doopydoos , or failing that , import something from the states . Maybe contact TJ ? <br><br> RS are having an open day this Saturday , why not nip down the m62 and pay them a visit . . .? This was on their workbench last weekend , straight out of the mould , maybe you could convince them ? ----------------

I see no issue for covering the screws , but I think the " bigger picture" here is that the whole Anavos belt is a total failure , and all owners need to seriously consider replacing it .<br> It's not just the Hero hole issue , it's also the fact that it is far too thin , and just looks totally wrong when being worn .

I think the average delivery time for an RS suit is between one and two months . <br> So, at the maximum , two months for a tailor made screen accurate suit of complete ready to wear armour . <br> I consider this to be excellent service . But still people complain .<br><br> For some reason , other members are prepared to wait seven to twelve months for American suit kits , not built kits ,many never complain ,.... And in the case of the Anavos offer, wait over a year, after paying up front , and still only get a kit of parts . <br><br> I think it fair to say that RS have the best service available for troopers .

I didn't read the title too well I guess . Yes, the pics I posted are of a full sized TD , I hadn't realised the AP / TE. Ones were slightly smaller . This tutorial shows how to scale down parts to make an AP/TE /FX look ok . <br> If you want yo upgrade to a screen accurate TD , reference my photos. ;0)

As long as you wear the suit correctly , the suit itself is EIB straight out of the box .

http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20784 tk 42057 requesting full access. Many thanks.

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------- This may help . --------- Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I had the same issue , I managed to bring the sides in ever so slightly using a hair dryer . My wife has quite a powerful dryer , and I held it about an inch away . I moved it slowly around to get the piece very hot in a strip two inches wide , and the full depth of the butt piece . Then by hand I held it slightly past the desired position for a couple of minutes until it had cooled sufficiently . <br> Do it a bit at a time .

Try to get the cover strips 180 appart . Try slowly , a bit at atime , trimming both halfs equally . The forearms will look more " wrong" if the cover strips aren't equal , than if the curvature of the halfs is a bit shallow .

If you are really set on buying a small home printer, check up the ones intended for school technology departments . They are of a more commercial style , better quality, than the ones advertised for home/ hobby use .

If you want to print anything larger than a keyring , an not have to spend ten hours sanding the surface , you need to be spending several thousand pounds on one . The small hobby units are rubbish . <br><br> That's why people send the files off to commercial printers . In the USA shape ways is popular with prop builders, I'm not sure of the U.K. Equivalent , but a friend of mine is regularly building printed guns and small props using a uk printer .