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usaeatt2

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About usaeatt2

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  • Location
    Valparaiso, IN

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  • Name
    Aaron

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  1. Your interior kit installation looks better than mine!!! The weathering is incredible! SUPER COOL. Nice work, Kevin! Two questions: What is the black foam liner? I like it! What did you use / how did you apply the weathering? Aaron
  2. Metalmite replica received! THANK YOU CHRIS! This is a BEAUTIFULLY machined part and the caps are painted with incredible precision. Considering the rarity of originals, these are WELL WORTH every penny for a complete set. Here's a little game: Which one is the replica?
  3. Outstanding! MORE PLEASE!
  4. Great observation, Lichtbringer. Every time I watch ANH, I notice the "realistic weight" effect when Luke is on the Death Star bridge with Leia. As he raises the E-11 to fire at the stormtroopers above, the barrel seems to come up sluggishly. Like he's a big wuss and can't handle the weapon properly... I couldn't understand why they didn't reshoot that scene until I built my steel E-11. It takes some muscle to raise several pounds of steel QUICKLY with one arm. I tried that move with my E-11 and got a similar result - the barrel comes up slowly due to the weight and inertia. Or (I hadn't thought of this until just now) maybe I'm a big wuss too... It's subtle, but I think you can definitely see the effect of realistic weight in this scene.
  5. I'm picturing the guitar and giant speaker scene from Back to the Future...On the road, or I'd post the picture...anybody?
  6. Nice work SlyFox! I know we're all OCD about this stuff, but the difference between 26mm and 26.5mm works out to about the thickness of 5 sheets of copy paper. Either way, I can live with the custom machined result. I got all wound up with these measurements until a friend pointed out NO ONE has a REAL set of power cylinders. Photogrammetry is awesome, but there are so many variables that being off by 0.5mm becomes debatable. In the end, as long as your power cylinders are proportional and look the part, nobody can question them... Unless they produce the legit found item cut from a radar rack... That thought eased my mind a little. I know...BLASPHEMY!!! Aaron
  7. I hope I'm the "Aaron" you mentioned because I'm very interested to see your replica caps. I have half a dozen vintage Metalmite caps (loose) and many more in power cell props. A side-by-side comparison would be awesome! BTW, THANK YOU for properly identifying the metal parts of the counter. I've been saying pot metal and cadmium since my first Hengstler, but the brass myth STILL persists.
  8. https://www.adafruit.com/products/2341
  9. I used brass tubing from K&S Metals (although I went to K&S in Chicago, you can usually find it on a display rack at Ace Hardware). They make "telescoping" brass tubing 3/8" x 0.014" x 12" (each size slides into the next size) or regular 3/8" x 0.029" x 36". Either wall thickness will work.
  10. Hi Sean, I originally used cap nuts, but then I found the glass fuses during a trip to the auto parts store one day. Cap nuts work, but I like the shape of the fuse caps better - the edges are less rounded. The drawback to the fuse caps is the engraved lettering and they still need to be shortened, but it's a good start. Here's a little comparison for you: On the left is my initial attempt using a cap nut (also I believe that screw is a 2-56...much too large!) In the middle is an AGU50 fuse. See how the shoulders are a little more square? I chucked the fuse in my drill press and filed off the engraved letters on one end. On the right is a fuse cap installed on a 3/8" tube cut to the correct length for a set of power cylinders. Next step is to "shorten" the cap to the correct size. DON'T try to remove the fuse caps by breaking the glass - it makes a mess and could result in an injury. Use a propane torch. Wave the flame back and forth across the cap while pulling gently with a pair of pliers. When the solder melts, the cap will slide right off the glass tube. The glass tube is 3/8" diameter and the walls are 1/16" thick. The rear resistors are "carbon composition resistors". The resistance value doesn't really matter, but the size does (don't tell women!!...) Each resistor measures 0.365 inches long by 0.143 diameter and is a perfect cylinder (no flared or rounded edges). Just for kicks, the resistance values of the two kinds I use are 82 ohm (grey/red/black/gold) or 150 ohm (brown/green/brown/gold). I think any resistor will work as long as it's the correct size and shape. Andy sent me some of the resistors he uses and they're the same size and shape. Hope this helps! Aaron
  11. I didn't make a shopping list, but here's what I know off the top of my head: 3/8" brass tubing for the cylinders 5mm brass tubing to replicate the Metalmite capacitors 30-50 amp AGC glass fuses (use the metal fuse ends to make the cylinder caps) 10BA (British association) cheese head screws and nuts 1mm thick metal for the base plate Rear resistors Orange/red braided sleeving Thin wires for the capacitors
  12. As always, beautiful work Tino. Maybe worth mentioning, almost any aluminum strip you can buy at a hardware store is 6061 aluminum. 6061 is the most commonly used aluminum since it can be cut, machined and welded very well. HOWEVER, 6061 does not bend well without cracking. In other words, it's not very malleable. If you want to bend aluminum and avoid cracks, order 5052 aluminum.
  13. Thanks, Derrek. Yeah, I thought about it for about 3 seconds... By then, it ALREADY bugged the crap out of me.
  14. I found unbelievable good fortune in my toolbox today... In the punches and pins drawer, I found a solid copper cylinder the exact same size as a Sterling bolt. You may or may not know, but welding doesn't work on copper. This means I had a PERFECT backer for adding welds to reshape the over sized holes. This looks messy, but it gets better. Filling in the outer edges of the hole. Here's the tragic hole all cleaned up. Not perfect, but good enough to be covered by the t-track. And finally, back to welding the dummy barrel and pin. This time I used the furthest forward hole (I like the 3 empty holes in a row and didn't want to interrupt that). A little careful grinding and I should be back on track. WHEW!!! Dodged a bullet this time! Aaron
  15. Warning: the following may contain content that might be disturbing to some viewers. Viewer discretion is advised. Well, the machine shop can't get to this for 3 weeks, so I pulled out a brand new 7/16" drill bit and had a go on my drill press. I was able to drill out the welds, but due to good penetration, the holes needed to be larger than 7/16" to separate the pin. The worst hole in the receiver is on the bottom and will be covered by the folding stock. Good news? The spool came out without any notable damage. I'll lay some "Roy" track over the top, damaged hole to see if I need to rebuild the edges with weld. Then weld a pin through the FRONT barrel hole... This seemed more dramatic yesterday - Today, it seems like it can be salvaged. If nothing else, it'll have character and look well used...
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