gazmosis

They can keep their "bapty" whatever. If I had one and let someone see it and they didn't know what Bapty was, they would say, " what the hell is this?" It was just one more example of the practical, yet somewhat insulting, lack of detail that went into the background TK's for a movie that wasn't supposed to make dollar 1.

Return edges really have nothing to do with wearability or approval. You are going to have a bit of return edge on almost every part for the exception of the wrist side of the forearms, the foot side of the shins and the chest side of the shoulder bells. The return edges were designed as a way to make the thin plastic armor parts look really thick. But they also provided a platform (on the torso parts) for the metal brackets that, when connected with loops of elastic, held the torso together. You can see the brackets and screws here: Using the metal brackets as the means of joining your torso parts is not a requirement. Find a happy medium with how much you leave. 1/4-3/8 inch is a good start. You don't want too much or it will start knifing into your body.

A pic of the eye cut out ridge

agreed and well stated, Eric

Can't wait to behold its glory!!!

Wow...just wow!

You have a lot more to trim out of the eye openings and teeth.

And your adventure begins!!

6 million dollar belt!!

Look at the rivet cover position and top to bottom width of the belt

These aren't so much done by measurement as just by visual eye. Look at your belt and where the belt boxes meet the flat portion is about where you want it trimmed down to. As for the rivet cover placement, it should not be centered, it should not really be right on the edge. Leave a mm or two between the edge and the cover.

Yes you are!

Looks good so far!

Oooh like Germain said, be careful with grinding metal that is attached to plastic. Intense heat will build immediately and will melt the plastic. I suggest a standard drill. A sharp bit and minimal pressure will remove enough material that you can pull apart the two halves with long nosed pliers.

You are correct about your lighting...help needed there! You can take a bit more off the bottom curve of your thigh pack that goes on the lower right thigh. Use the end cap of your thermal detonator to trace this. As for your sniper plate, it did look like it was just mis aligned on the right side.( looking at the shin) it us historically a difficult part to install. Many clamps needed here.

As I have said before, the brilliance within this Detachment is astonishing!

Ok James!!!! *I need to note that James was kind enough to work with me to re-format his original application. He added the proper pictures that were missing and re-arranged them to make them much easier to view and follow* Thank you for your help on this!! Now lets look at your armor!!!! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted. Some people may question the gap on your right side as exceeding the 1/2 inch (12 MM) limit for side gap. I m my opinion, I think this might have been accentuated by the tendency to inhale as you raise your arm. I believe this is close enough not to argue over a few MM. If you wish to post a picture in a more relaxed state with your belt tightened up and show this gap can be closed further, by all means be my guest! Other than splitting hairs over that, your armor contains all required elements for Expert Infantry. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: This si the section where myself and your fellow troopers provide observations that will go toward the improvement in the overall look of your armor. Unless stated, these suggestions will not affect any application. I want to start at your helmet. Looking AT your helmet, the left side ear has a great deal of material from the outer curve that can be removed yet. A little bit of adjustment here will go along way towards giving your helmet a much more balanced look. You did a good overall job on the hand paint work!!! A couple of your outlines specifically the traps over the eyes, have areas of choppyness. If you moisten a brush with thinner and massage the uneven bumps, it will give your details a much cleaner look. I need to mention one other thing, but look in "Centurion Suggestions" for that point. This is awkward, but I need to discuss your butt! The center mounting strap between your kidney and butt plates is pulling the butt plate up so far it is overlapping your kidney. There should be a single seam line between these two plates with no overlap. This is just me being picky, but if you used the end cap of your thermal detonator as a guide, you could use this to trace the proper curve at the bottom of your thigh pack. Since we are on your thermal detonator, although I am sure not much can be done about it now unless you DIDN'T glue the end caps down, but eh you left your caps a bit wide. They should be around 3/4 inch (20 mm) wide. Is there any possibility of re sizing your left thigh. It looks really big specifically around the knee. If you took this down to fit proper, it would make your movement much more comfortable and natural. Although not required, greater accuracy for your DLT-19 can be achieved by sourcing the wires for the t-tracks on the main barrel. Centurion Suggestions: There is going to be a little bit of work if you are planning on a Centurion application. First off, you will need to adjust your back plate so it has MINIMAL or no overlap over the kidney. I sad above that I needed to mention something here regarding a paint detail. The vent lines on the rear traps should NOT be all parallel with each other. As seen here: the vent lines should be painted in the shape of the trapezoid itself. Although acceptable for EIB, your side gaps will need to be eliminated completely for Centurion. Either side shim addition or waist reduction will be necessary here. Although your original pics showed it and the present ones do not, your male snap on your right side is way out of position. You can get an idea of this in the interior strapping shot. Anyways, TM provides a seam line that the ab side hardware should be mounted on. When done, it should look close to this: Germain made the suggestion that with a new snap and a little ABS paste, this can be an easy adjustment. Next are the mounting straps on your holster. They look wide to me. Proper straps should be 20 MM (3/4 inch) wide. Please make sure that kidney /butt issue is resolved! Germain also pointed out and provided a guide to the removal of all return edge on the wrist portion of your forearms. Make sure for your Centurion photos that outer edge of your right drop box aligns with the outer edge of the waist belt. Please don;t hesitate to contact me if you should have any further questions. Take your time and this should be some easy fixes for you. Congratulations again on your EIB!!!

Congrats! Those jitters were well earned!

Who made the helmet? Just make sure you remove enough of the teeth and make them square not Twinkie shaped

The original forearms did not have the "square indent ridge " end on both the wrist and the elbow sides so if trim that off you will be fine. As for the 35 mm ridge, if you still have excess room in your forearm, trim the ridge on the top of your arm down to the 15mm and leave the underside as it is.

Armor master

What do you plan on using for an adhesive to bond the CF with the resin parts?

Fashion world WATCH THE HELL OUT!!!

3/8 of an inch is a safe number to shoot for your chest, ab, back ,butt, and kidney. Go a bit smaller on your thighs and shins. No return edge on the inside of your shoulders but leve a bit on the bottom. Biceps are up to you whether to leave a tiny bit or remove it. No return edge on the twist side of your forearms but you can leave a tiny bit on the elbow side if you want.

I want to confirm something else. The NE suit was based off the molds of RS props which was the screen accurate suit. It had a definate left and right forearm. You might be wearing them backwards. Each forearm has both a raised ridge that the cover strip sits on and a side that has no cover strip. The raised side should be on the top of each forearm.